Does it have a number on it still with a tag? The gasket style should be a steel gasket.
Source for distributor bushings for rebuild
- Thread starter AR67GTX
- Start date
The metal gasket that I last used was .010 to .015 thick. The metal ring gasket had a raised rib in the center of gasket as a crush area. I also cut a thin paper gasket until I went to the dealer and bought the right one, in 1979.
They both work. I found some of the steel ones prob the last nos ones around. I like them better because the ground is not dependent on the clamping area.
No - no tag on it. Sounds like no problem running a gasket at the block then instead of machining for a rubber o-ring.
The Ebay seller hasn't answered back on the shaft length yet. Guess I will go ahead and get it as it looks like the longer shaft. In for a penny - in for a pound.
Thanks for all the help.
Your old distributor does it have a number tag?
No - no tag on it or sign one was on it. I take it some of the later Prestolite distributors had a metal tag secured by a screw for the clamps or vacuum advance?
Received some bushings today. Not sure if they are going to work - seem to be .001 to .0015 over 1/2 inch. Couple shafts I have measure around .498" and are a looser fit on them and doubtful the bushings will shrink up much when pressed in. I may need to look for some of those slightly undersized ones you discussed in your post.
If you haven't figured it out this is sort of a nutty, senseless project to just satisfy my interest in screwing around with mechanical stuff and trying to restore old parts. My first car - a 64 Sport Fury had a dual point distributor and that was probably one of the first things I learned how to do in high school - set points, change plugs and time it. Eventually we had to put new bushings in the distributor. 50 years later I guess I'm re-living my teens. I figure if points were good enough back then, and dual points were even better - they are good enough for me still.
If you want a repo tag. not mine
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960S-1970...EMI-440-383-340-273-DATED-W-PART/282795980962
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960S-1970...EMI-440-383-340-273-DATED-W-PART/282795980962
They came with a ID tag. Kind of a PIA to figure out what it is without it. That is right on the shaft size so that is good. Have to hit the book for the specs but I try to keep the side plat around .002, think it is .005 limit on it. Usually the dwell variation is 2. Biggest thing with them is make sure the upper part of the shaft gets bent and throws it off pretty good. I would love to find really small roller bearings to replace them but no go yet.
I have seen those and don't like them 1, to expensive 2, they are engraved not stamped and it shows. Bill Rork? stamps them for 35 each shipped and look perfect. Had customers get them for clones. I will not physically put them on.
http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/
Quick search for these, need machine a 1/16" larger.https://www.rainbowprecisionproducts.com/bb_needle_bearing_section#3
Originals get beat up. 2642899 lower leg on 9 missing, poor stamp. 47 th week of 66.
That's the way I get them in all the time. Sometimes they are rotted out also. Most of those become parts distribs and I just strip them. the rotted tag ones.
Most of these have had some one inside and it is a pia to get all the parts books needed to make sure they are right. Tons of subtle differences on the inside. Think I have most of that covered now.
Most of these have had some one inside and it is a pia to get all the parts books needed to make sure they are right. Tons of subtle differences on the inside. Think I have most of that covered now.
Actually saw that site. You really need a bearing in grease since there is no real way to oil them. That's why they use the oilite bushings. Top gets it from the oil cap and the bottom splashed on the shaft and rides in the spiral cut up.
miller
Well-Known Member
Unless you have a way to measure the shaft bore (no bushing), you won't know how much 'shrink' on the bushings. Actually sounds pretty dang close, maybe a slip in fit for the shaft. Without looking in the book, don't remember that clearance, though it's in there.
I remember some of those distributors, had a oiling cup, with a spring loaded cap, to lube the bushings.
Good luck on it!
Be interesting to see how it works out
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed this and late to the party. 
First, from reading thru all this: USE a 9/16 Tap to thread the old bushing and use a threaded bolt with about 4" or more of thread (or a rod) to pull the old bearings. Find an old dual pick up emission distributor and use that shaft to install bushings.
That 4006C was a Single Point Distributor for a 413. It used the IAZ-1039 LA shaft. Which obviously work for a RB and I have one, but being single point, the tip slot is clocked to a different setting then a normal DP Shaft. It works, you will just have #1 plug wire at a different spot, and might have to orient distributor for timing in a slightly different spot. Hopefully no interference with the vacuum advance.
The only true spare shaft I have is a NOS Super Stock shaft for the the 64-65 race hemi and I am not selling that. I do have the shaft for the 4006C if you need it. Obviously makes the distributor useless without a shaft.
First, from reading thru all this: USE a 9/16 Tap to thread the old bushing and use a threaded bolt with about 4" or more of thread (or a rod) to pull the old bearings. Find an old dual pick up emission distributor and use that shaft to install bushings.That 4006C was a Single Point Distributor for a 413. It used the IAZ-1039 LA shaft. Which obviously work for a RB and I have one, but being single point, the tip slot is clocked to a different setting then a normal DP Shaft. It works, you will just have #1 plug wire at a different spot, and might have to orient distributor for timing in a slightly different spot. Hopefully no interference with the vacuum advance.
The only true spare shaft I have is a NOS Super Stock shaft for the the 64-65 race hemi and I am not selling that. I do have the shaft for the 4006C if you need it. Obviously makes the distributor useless without a shaft
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Wondering where you were hiding. Seems like three of us always mighrate to these threads!
Yes, I'm not 100% certain this shaft I'm waiting on is gong to work correctly. If not I'll probably just clean it up as original 383 dist (as far as I know), rebuild with fresh bushings, screws, advance, cap, rotor and put it up for sale and try to recoup a bit of my lost money. Toss in the 413 Chrysler core for $10. We'll see.
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Taxes, Life, my other jobWondering where you were hiding. Seems like three of us always mighrate to these threads!
, and playing with some other toys.Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
It will work, Just swap shaft over as long as it is straight and not worn out. You CAN NOT use that cam stop though. The diameter of the cam is smaller and meant for SP only. Used the 383 DP version you have. What Letter is stamped on the cam stop top, and what letters are on the bottom of your orig? Should be L? to be a CCW RB version. What is the Shaft part number of your original. I can not make it out in your picture. But looks like L3 something. The 383 shaft is L36 and a RB block is L39.
The bearing you got may work. You can down load and or view a service manual on line. The electrical section gives you all the spec needed for rebuild. Normally with a 5lb pull on the shaft the spec is .006 deflection for a rebuild. I think those bearing you got may shrink some when pressed in. THe ID spec was .4995 to .50, and the shaft is .498 so about .0015 to .002 clearance for a new install, but that will not give as large a deflection since in a shaft that clearance on one side is half. You also can clock the distributor and oil pump drive shaft to help get the distributor orientation you need to compensate for the tip clocking of this new shaft your getting.
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