Starting problems

[Basoline]

Hi,

Config: 383cui with Edelbrock AVS carb, headers, electronic ign., recently converted to a 4speed.

I have problems getting the engine to start. That means, if I drove the car, put it away for let's say a week, it takes real long to get her to start. But...it also happens when she's parked for about an hour (so that excludes the hot engine problem?). I have to use the pedal to help...

If I shut her down, wait for 5 mins and start again, she immidiately starts, without using the pedal.

Also, when pushed to the limit, she holds back all of a sudden (>4500rpm)

Recently, she "dieseled" (didn't stop running directly after shutting down) and we adjusted the mixture screws on the carb.

So...hope I'm being complete 'n all...anyone have a clue?

 

[Joe Mopar]

I think she's homesick. Send her back to the States. :grin:

 

[roadrunnerman]

just guessing here but i would say the fuel pump diaphram. You didn't say if you had an elect or mech one.

 

[khryslerkid]

Just a thought, sounds like the carb is "leaking down". Running on when you shut it off, no gas in the "bowl" when you let it set. Check your oil on the dip stick and see if it smells like gas or over full. After shutting down, take off the air cleaner, look down inside the carb with a light and see if its dripping gas. Sometimes its just dirt in the bowl that can cause this.

 

[scotts74birds]

My first thought on the "dieseling" problem is that something in the cylinder is still hot enough to continue "ignition". How is your timing? Too much advance, or too lean, makes it run hot, almost making the spark plug, a "glow-plug", in diesel terms. I would start there.

 

[Basoline]

@Joe: no no, she's in good hands here... ;-)

@roadrunnerman: mechanical one. How can I check if that is the case? I have a little gauge installed in the fuelline, just before the carb and it reads approx. 3 psi when idling.

@khryslerkid: well, at least the fuel is not staying where it supposed to be so I will check those things.

@scotts: think I have to reconsider my timing anyway...dieseling is gone though.

 

[roadrunnerman]

that's what your fuel pump should be putting out at idle. I think khryslerkid might have the right solution with a problem in your carb.

 

[Basoline]

I had a backfire a while ago. It made the plug to top off the little tree behind the carb (for the vacuum lines) blow off. Could that cause anything like Khryslerkid is mentioning?

And...how does that fit in the story that the engine is stalling at higher revs?

 

[khryslerkid]

Was it the Edelbrock carbs that had a problem with the "power valve/metering valve" in the bottom of the carb, when a back-fire accured it would mess it up somehow? That would give you a "flat spot" during higher rpm's. Don't know if it would cause "leak-down" of your float bowl or not. If thats when your problem started it might have something to do with it.
My rule of thumb is to think simple things first...

 

[Basoline]

You are right. One thing at a time...

I just checked, car has been standing for two days now:
- there's fuel squirting when I use the throttle
- there's no fuel smell on the dipstick
- there are no "funny" leaking (gas)lines or other hoses

I just thought...I replaced my voltage regulator of the dash a while ago. When I removed the cluster, some connections for the heater broke off. As the heater is working on vacuum, is it possible the engine is getting "false air" through the heaterconnector?

Also, I disconnected the choke because I couldn't get that to work somehow. I locked the valve on top of the carb.

 

[khryslerkid]

Your a hard act to follow my friend:grin: (we'll get to the bottom of it)

As to the leaking that I was referring to it is down the inside of your carb. Where you see your "squirters" operating. After you shut the car off look there with a light and see if there is gas dripping.

As for your heater controls, while the car is running chech your vacuum lines for vacuum. Plug them with a screw or something if there is vacuum leaking there. (kinda sucks, dosen't it)

 

[69 Runner]

edelbrock carbs don't have a power valve. Holleys do. Backfire and blow it which in turn allows the primary bowl to bleed down into the intake. But there is a fix, a kit available from Summit and probably Jegs for about $7

 

[Basoline]

Sorry for being a little confusing...I'm trying to create a context but I know it's difficult...

But I will check the dripping. But wouldn't in result in a rising oil level and smelly dipstick? Because thas isn't the case...

@69Runner: could you provide a link of something like that? I really don't know what to look for.

 

[khryslerkid]

Not necessarily if the "leaking down" has just started recently. Mechanical fuel pumps can leak into the crankcase and you'll notice it quicker.

Your not being confusing, I just had to laugh about the vacuum lines under the dash It's a lot easier to trouble shoot in person but you're going about it the right way and eliminating things one at a time will help you to zero in on your problem.

Thanks for clarifying which carb "69 R". It's been awhile...

 

[69 Runner]

Ask and Ye Shall Receive

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-2408/

 

[Basoline]

Ok, here's what I did this evening:

- removed the heater vacuum hose
- closed every vacuum line except pre-ingnition and PCV-valve

Checked if the carb squirts before I start and it did. She still starts very hard. When I got her running, I idled for let's say 5 minutes. After shut down, I check for dripping but there was none.

I checked the bolts that hold the carb to the intake and guess what. They wheren't very tight especially the one on the far left: indeed, stud was loose and thread in intake is damaged.

Now what? Is this the cause of everything? A giant vacuum leak?

 

[khryslerkid]

You definitely don't need a loose carb base but I don't think thats your problem with the hard starting. It could give you that flat spot at 4500 rpm though. Get that taken care of and see how much difference it makes...



When is the last time you did plugs and wires?

 

[Basoline]

The car is going to a nearby specialist to have the rearend done(4.10 is being replaced by 3.55). I will let the carb-thing be fixed too...I'm not a very good mechanic but can do some things by myself.

Plugs 'n wires are done approx 1000 miles ago. So they are fairly "new"...

Also, I have a single field alternator and electronic ignition. Don't know if that matters?...trying to create a complete context as much as possible.

 

[khryslerkid]

Wish you luck my friend! Let us know how you make out...

 

[Basoline]

Ok, I was lucky that the Edelbrock Performer intake and the Edelbrock carb both have two holes drilled to bolt them together. Never thought of that, I always though the second hole in the carb was for other applications.

So I unscrewed the stud and moved it to it's neighbour bore. This really helped! Now, she starts like she did before!! Hope it all works out tomorrow when it's hotter...

It's still not the 100% I need but let the pro's look at that saturday. I'll keep you posted!