Steps for removing Engine and Transmission?

[451Mopar]

After reading the thread on cost to pull engine and trans, I though I would ask what everyone uses for the steps to pull the engine and trans, and estimate the time to complete the steps?

This is what I am thinking, let me know where I am off, or a better way (not removing the K-Member.)
For me, with a lift, I like removing the trans first and then the engine, not as one unit.
1. Put car on lift and connect remote starter switch. < 5 minutes if I can find the remote starter switch?
2. Lift car, remove lower trans shield and disconnect converter bolts using starter to spin the engine to get to the converter bolts, then lower car. My lift is not that fast, only 110 Volt power so maybe another 5 to 10 minutes?
3. Remove remote starter switch, disconnect and remove battery, remove radiator cap, un-bolt and store hood. 5 to 10 minutes depending on getting help with the hood?
4a. (Option 1) if stock exhaust, raise car on lift and disconnect down pipes. Drain the radiator, and engine block. Time depends on how bad the exhaust bolts are, how fast the radiator will drain without making a mess, and how stuck and gunked up the engine block drains are? Maybe 10 minutes minimum?
4b. (option 2) if headers, start draining radiator before removing header bolts (unless aftermarket heads with dry bolt holes), then rise the car on the lift and continue draining the block, and disconnecting the exhaust. Time may have same sort of issues as above, maybe add 5-minutes to the low end estimate to unbolt the headers, total 15 min?
For #4, I am thinking 1 hour max labor "charge" even it it takes longer because of problems with the exhaust and such?
5. Drain automatic transmission fluid, remove driveshaft, remove cooler lines, remove reverse/NS wiring, disconnect linkage, remove starter, put trans pan back on with just a few bolts, put trans jack under transmission, support engine so it won't shift when removing trans. Unbolt the transmission rear support and cross-member, Unbolt trans to engine bolts, and lower/remove transmission. Maybe 45 minutes to 1-hour? This can take longer if you don't have the right tools.
6. Still under the car, remove the trans lines from radiator, remove lower radiator hose, remove engine mount bolts, loosen or remove lower radiator to core bolts. Disconnect fuel line from mechanical fuel pump. 15 minutes min.
7. Prepare for lowering the car (if using a stand to support engine lower and remove stand), then lower car. Disconnect/remove top radiator hose, disconnect fan shroud or electric fans, Unbolt top radiator to core support bolts and remove radiator. 5 to 10 minutes ?
8. Up top, remove air filter, fuel line to carb, carb linkage, and remove carb with choke assembly if equiped. Install engine lift plate if using one (keeps junk from falling into open manifold.) 5 to 10 minutes.
9. Disconnect and move wiring out of the way. I remove the dist and plug wires too and plug the hole just so the dist does not get damaged. 5 to 10 minutes.
10. Accessories? We will assume the car does not have A/C or if it does it is not charged? Disconnect heater hoses and A/C lines if it has them. If power steering, remove pump assembly from engine and place on battery tray. 5 to 10 minutes.

Trying to keep track in my head, but I think at this point the engine should be ready to pull?
Time wise I am counting 1 hour 45 minutes minimum, and 3 hours 15 minutes as still a reasonable time. Now if you are just torching off the exhaust, cutting all the hoses and wiring, like pulling an engine from the scrap yard it would really take less time.

I guess I should throw in a few minutes for removing the engine and putting it on an engine stand? So 2 hours minimum and 4 hours on the higher side seems reasonable to me?

 

[PP1RT]

I start draining the coolant first. Gives it lots of time to drip. Start at the rear of the car and work forward. Driveshaft out. Use an old slip yoke to plug the trans. Pull motor and trans together. Jack under tail shaft while removing trans xmember. Exhaust depends on what's on the car i guess.When done underneath go back up top and start at the front. Fan,rad, etc. Last thing off the motor is the air cleaner and immediately plug holes with a clean rag. Leave dist in but pop the cap and wires off. Kind of a rough description that varies with makes and models i have pulled but generally in that order. I prefer to separate and join the trans outside of the car if at all possible. Just seems quicker and easier to me.

 

[oldbee]

After reading the thread on cost to pull engine and trans, I though I would ask what everyone uses for the steps to pull the engine and trans, and estimate the time to complete the steps?

This is what I am thinking, let me know where I am off, or a better way (not removing the K-Member.)
For me, with a lift, I like removing the trans first and then the engine, not as one unit.
1. Put car on lift and connect remote starter switch. < 5 minutes if I can find the remote starter switch?
2. Lift car, remove lower trans shield and disconnect converter bolts using starter to spin the engine to get to the converter bolts, then lower car. My lift is not that fast, only 110 Volt power so maybe another 5 to 10 minutes?
3. Remove remote starter switch, disconnect and remove battery, remove radiator cap, un-bolt and store hood. 5 to 10 minutes depending on getting help with the hood?
4a. (Option 1) if stock exhaust, raise car on lift and disconnect down pipes. Drain the radiator, and engine block. Time depends on how bad the exhaust bolts are, how fast the radiator will drain without making a mess, and how stuck and gunked up the engine block drains are? Maybe 10 minutes minimum?
4b. (option 2) if headers, start draining radiator before removing header bolts (unless aftermarket heads with dry bolt holes), then rise the car on the lift and continue draining the block, and disconnecting the exhaust. Time may have same sort of issues as above, maybe add 5-minutes to the low end estimate to unbolt the headers, total 15 min?
For #4, I am thinking 1 hour max labor "charge" even it it takes longer because of problems with the exhaust and such?
5. Drain automatic transmission fluid, remove driveshaft, remove cooler lines, remove reverse/NS wiring, disconnect linkage, remove starter, put trans pan back on with just a few bolts, put trans jack under transmission, support engine so it won't shift when removing trans. Unbolt the transmission rear support and cross-member, Unbolt trans to engine bolts, and lower/remove transmission. Maybe 45 minutes to 1-hour? This can take longer if you don't have the right tools.
6. Still under the car, remove the trans lines from radiator, remove lower radiator hose, remove engine mount bolts, loosen or remove lower radiator to core bolts. Disconnect fuel line from mechanical fuel pump. 15 minutes min.
7. Prepare for lowering the car (if using a stand to support engine lower and remove stand), then lower car. Disconnect/remove top radiator hose, disconnect fan shroud or electric fans, Unbolt top radiator to core support bolts and remove radiator. 5 to 10 minutes ?
8. Up top, remove air filter, fuel line to carb, carb linkage, and remove carb with choke assembly if equiped. Install engine lift plate if using one (keeps junk from falling into open manifold.) 5 to 10 minutes.
9. Disconnect and move wiring out of the way. I remove the dist and plug wires too and plug the hole just so the dist does not get damaged. 5 to 10 minutes.
10. Accessories? We will assume the car does not have A/C or if it does it is not charged? Disconnect heater hoses and A/C lines if it has them. If power steering, remove pump assembly from engine and place on battery tray. 5 to 10 minutes.

Trying to keep track in my head, but I think at this point the engine should be ready to pull?
Time wise I am counting 1 hour 45 minutes minimum, and 3 hours 15 minutes as still a reasonable time. Now if you are just torching off the exhaust, cutting all the hoses and wiring, like pulling an engine from the scrap yard it would really take less time.

I guess I should throw in a few minutes for removing the engine and putting it on an engine stand? So 2 hours minimum and 4 hours on the higher side seems reasonable to me?

Sounds reasonable, is there any alcohol involved/ bunch of guys telling stories at the same time? I’d double the time, but it’s doable.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I like seperating engine and trans during removal. Less bulk and lack of building length. That and I really do not like the tilt angle required to pull both together.
I vary seldom need both out anyway.

 

[moparedtn]

After doing this three times pretty much by myself, I can advise that the Factory Service Manual has awesome step by step directions
that keep you organized and productive through the process.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

OK, well I will throw in my 2-cents. If you have a fully professional shop and a couple other mechanics to help, then maybe your time estimates are reasonable. By myself, using jack stands, it takes me a lot longer.

As for your procedure:
1/2. NO WAY would I leave the starter/battery hooked up. For me, step #1 is disconnect the battery. Remove the torque converter bolts by turning the engine over by hand using the harmonic balancer bolt. It's an odd size like 1-1/16" or 1-1/8" (?) or something like that.
3. sounds good
4. sounds reasonable - headers make the starter more of a PIA, but the bolts aren't usually rusted on like stock manifolds.
5. Yep, and you can start draining the converter when you unbolt it in step #2
6. sounds good.
7. I like to drain/pull the radiator & fan a little earlier on. When you take the trans out and/or lower the car & the engine tilts somehow, you don't want the fan going into the radiator.
8. Other options after taking off air cleaner
- 8a. take off intake/carb as one piece & pull using two intake bolts
- 8b. just remove two diagonal intake bolts, replace with longer bolts of same size & pull on those.
fyi- I've always been scared of lift plates with aluminum intakes, but should be fine with cast iron & a lot of people use them on aluminum intakes too... I'm just chicken
9. You can leave the distributor on & even the cap depending on where you hook up to pull it. It does help to remove the spark plugs, but the plug wires can stay.
10. p/s pump could stay on the engine & disconnect the lines...& drain it.

 

[moparedtn]

Yep, right after disconnecting the battery, I learned to get the involved fluids draining right from the get-go.

 

[747mopar]

Geez, what is it with all the long answers??

Unbolt or unplug anything attaching them to the car and yank em out... it's really that simple.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Geez, what is it with all the long answers??

Unbolt or unplug anything attaching them to the car and yank em out... it's really that simple.

Short answer.....torch.....done

 

[mopar 3 B]

N

Short answer.....torch.....done

Not all of us can afford to replace the car after extracting the power train.

 

[451Mopar]

One thing I learned at the trans shop, the 9/16" shallow flex sockets are great for getting the trans to engine bolts from under the car.
After thinking about it, It would be pretty easy pulling the K-member with engine/trans assembly on a Mopar if you have the fixture tool to hold the assembly. When I was writing this, I was really thinking of how I'm going to pull the drivetrain from The Jensen Interceptor.

I think my low time estimates are someone really busting their hump and having everything ready to go. I think it would take me at least 4 hours or more, I don't think I would do the job for less than $300?

 

[747mopar]

One thing I learned at the trans shop, the 9/16" shallow flex sockets are great for getting the trans to engine bolts from under the car.
After thinking about it, It would be pretty easy pulling the K-member with engine/trans assembly on a Mopar if you have the fixture tool to hold the assembly. When I was writing this, I was really thinking of how I'm going to pull the drivetrain from The Jensen Interceptor.

I think my low time estimates are someone really busting their hump and having everything ready to go. I think it would take me at least 4 hours or more, I don't think I would do the job for less than $300?

I have a set of those shallow swivel sockets, they come out everytime there's a motor or tranny to be pulled.

 

[Glenwood]

I have a set of those shallow swivel sockets, they come out everytime there's a motor or tranny to be pulled.

Same here. A couple have tape around them as the joints are worn out and getting sloppy.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Ever try swivel extensions?