Suggestion for Headers

[ibsorgn]

I have a 72 Plymouth Satellite that is about to undergoing a motor transplant (Stroker 440). It currently wears a set of rusted noname long tube headers. Because these headers have seen better days I would like to get suggestions on what model header would be a good choice for a clean, good fitting, easily installable, that provide room to get at plugs, starter etc at a reasonable price. BTW my heads are 440 Stealth that use a straight plug (no angle) and I will be using a mini starter.

 

[Dennis H]

With the exception of reasonable price, TTI's. Get the polished/ceramics for good fit, cool running and reduced weight.

 

[superbird77]

I've heard very good reviews on Doug's and TTI's. I actually just bought a set of Doug's (#D451 ceramic coated) from the Autozone website where they are having a 15% off promo going on right now. I paid $520.00 and received free shipping FYI. TTi's are probably the best but will cost you another $300 over Dougs.

 

[Cranky]

All of your expectations are invalid lol

 

[hunt2elk]

With the exception of reasonable price, TTI's. Get the polished/ceramics for good fit, cool running and reduced weight.

You also wont be getting the starter out with the TTi's bolted to the head.

 

[moparmarkk]

hi,action ange has a set of hooker 5209's for sale on here,the back pipe-drivers side comes off to get to the starter,they sound great to.easy in and out,mark

 

[ibsorgn]

hi,action ange has a set of hooker 5209's for sale on here,the back pipe-drivers side comes off to get to the starter,they sound great to.easy in and out,mark

Those are big 2" tubes with long collectors which are not really a street header more for competition. I believe they are made for raised port heads.

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All of your expectations are invalid lol

Got any suggestions?

 

[Robliepse]

I'm keeping my stock manifolds on my 1972 440 Roadrunner because the car needs greater things than killer headers. I did have headers on my daily driver 340 roadrunner back in 1986 and it was a major pain the one time I had to change the starter. This was my only car and daily driver from 1986 till about 1992 and i didn't have 2 nickles to rub together but I did have a cheap set of tools. I don't see the big deal, if you have the need for speed and have the bucks why would the fact that you might have to change a starter every several years influence the decision. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

[demonram]

Stay away from hookers! Bought them for my 72 with a 400(now 451), they were the worst fitting pieces of crap! I can't imagine with an rb block. They hit the centerlink, the passenger side of the trans. When I contacted hooker they said I must have done something to cause them to hit the side of the tranny, and the warranty was void because I sandblasted them and coated them. What kind of sh** is that. 1 7/8,3" collectors. Anything but hookers!

 

[Black HP2]

Stay away from hookers! Bought them for my 72 with a 400(now 451), they were the worst fitting pieces of crap! I can't imagine with an rb block. They hit the centerlink, the passenger side of the trans. When I contacted hooker they said I must have done something to cause them to hit the side of the tranny, and the warranty was void because I sandblasted them and coated them. What kind of sh** is that. 1 7/8,3" collectors. Anything but hookers!

I have TTI on Hemi car and they are awesome had to pull the trans though to change the starter

 

[ma mopar nutz]

TTI ceramic coated the only way to go !!:headbang:

 

[440runner]

I have Hedman HTC Hedders on my 73 Roadrunner with 440 stroked to 500 and also use 440 Source Stealth Heads. Everything was just bolt in with no clearance issues. They were pollished at one timebut i made the mistake of using them while breaking in the Motor so they got cooked. That was 3 years ago and still no rust so i left them as is.

 

[SlinktRR]

Stay away from hookers! Anything but hookers!

Thanks, dad!

 

[ibsorgn]

I'm keeping my stock manifolds on my 1972 440 Roadrunner because the car needs greater things than killer headers. I did have headers on my daily driver 340 roadrunner back in 1986 and it was a major pain the one time I had to change the starter. This was my only car and daily driver from 1986 till about 1992 and i didn't have 2 nickles to rub together but I did have a cheap set of tools. I don't see the big deal, if you have the need for speed and have the bucks why would the fact that you might have to change a starter every several years influence the decision. Maybe I'm missing something.

Maybe you need to re-read my initial post as I can not understand how you were able to make all the assumptions you did about my needs.

 

[moparmarkk]

.

Those are big 2" tubes with long collectors which are not really a street header more for competition. I believe they are made for raised port heads.

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hi,i have a set of these on my 65 bel.,with a 70 e-body k-member,they hit nothing,easy in and out.they have collector flanges,and they are 2 in.,but they sound great uncorked.back tube comes off for starter change.mark not for raised port heads.



Got any suggestions?

 

[71airgrabberRR]

Ceramic Coated TTI's



Here are a few pictures that may help you decide. This set of headers are the ceramic coated TTI's. They are installed in a '70 Challenger with a Stroker 440, so the engine compartment and front suspension / K frame should be the same on your car. This engine has Indy aluminum heads so we had to get the appropriate special header, because the exhaust ports were raised on the Indy heads. I installed a mini starter, and the plugs are not too hard to get to either.

These pictures also show you how they fit if you run a Lakewood bell housing. I had to grind a little off one of the bell housing tabs on the passenger side for additional clearance. I also had to reroute the braided steel swinging external oil pickup line.

If you are running a stock transmission, either automatic or standard, I don't think you will have any problems. The last tube on the driver side has a slip on flange, so that tube can come out (without having to remove the whole header) and allow you easy access to the starter.

This set has 2 1/8" stepped tubes and has the 3 inch collector. I think the newer production ones have a 3.5 " collector.

They are a GREAT fitting set of headers. Expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Hope this helps.

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The last picture shows the ground clearance, which can become a problem when running large diameter exhaust systems. This car has 3 inch pipes all the way out the back with no fit problems at all.

 

[ibsorgn]

.

Usually when you are running 2" tubes your talking competition but that's not to say you can't run them as street equipment. I believe that the specs I read indicated they were made for raised ports but no matter.
B Body with a E K-member interesting, maybe your combination affords a little more clearance? But in any event I'll keep that in mind. I assume that you are running an RB?

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View attachment 195706

Here are a few pictures that may help you decide. This set of headers are the ceramic coated TTI's. They are installed in a '70 Challenger with a Stroker 440, so the engine compartment and front suspension / K frame should be the same on your car. This engine has Indy aluminum heads so we had to get the appropriate special header, because the exhaust ports were raised on the Indy heads. I installed a mini starter, and the plugs are not too hard to get to either.

These pictures also show you how they fit if you run a Lakewood bell housing. I had to grind a little off one of the bell housing tabs on the passenger side for additional clearance. I also had to reroute the braided steel swinging external oil pickup line.

If you are running a stock transmission, either automatic or standard, I don't think you will have any problems. The last tube on the driver side has a slip on flange, so that tube can come out (without having to remove the whole header) and allow you easy access to the starter.

This set has 2 1/8" stepped tubes and has the 3 inch collector. I think the newer production ones have a 3.5 " collector.

They are a GREAT fitting set of headers. Expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Hope this helps.

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View attachment 195707

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View attachment 195708

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View attachment 195710

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The last picture shows the ground clearance, which can become a problem when running large diameter exhaust systems. This car has 3 inch pipes all the way out the back with no fit problems at all.

What is the model number of the TTI? Very much appreciate the photos. BTW, very clean and neat job.

 

[ibsorgn]

I gather that the major problem with installing headers is when the engine is in place, fortunately I will be installing a new motor with the headers which should eliminate most of the headaches. It appears that ceramic coated headers will help protect the starter from the normal header heat which tends to shorten the starter life. My heads don't use angled plugs which gives me more header choices. Therefore it looks like it is mostly about price as all the manufactures claim there headers will fit 72 B bodys so I guess that I will go with either Summit or Jegs 1 7/8 ceramic coated headers unless someone, with first hand experience, can offer a different take.

 

[Donniejr81]

I bought Heddmans for my 71 Charger with a 400. From the reviews I read, they are supposed to clear power steering, column or floor shift linkage, and all other things that cause Hookers to get "adjusted". The price wasn't too bad either. We'll see this weekend just how accurate the reviews are. I will say they seem to be put together really well.

 

[boandluke]

Stay away from hookers! Bought them for my 72 with a 400(now 451), they were the worst fitting pieces of crap! I can't imagine with an rb block. They hit the centerlink, the passenger side of the trans. When I contacted hooker they said I must have done something to cause them to hit the side of the tranny, and the warranty was void because I sandblasted them and coated them. What kind of sh** is that. 1 7/8,3" collectors. Anything but hookers!

That sounded a tad weird...