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Swapping K member with 4 post lift

Pool Fixer

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68 Charger. I've seen guys drop all suspension out the bottom using a 2 post lift. I have a 4 post lift and a cherry picker. has anyone done this utilizing the equipment I have on hand?

I'm swapping to a QA1 kmember, New:
tubular upper and lower control arms
ball joints
tie rods/sleeves
borgeson box
torsion bars
brakes
drop spindles.

I won't be reusing any of the current suspension pieces. Seems like the way to go for me would be to drop it all out the bottom. My engine bay is pretty nice so I don't need to remove the engine so I'd like to leave that in place.. adding a layer of complexity to this lol I suppose the best way is to put the keyboard down and just go try it but I wanted to see if anyone here had done it first.
 
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4 post will be tough. Raising the engine and taking it all apart seems like the only way. Might be easier to just do it on the floor with the car on jack stands.
 
I can’t see any advantage to doing that job on 4 post lift. As pnora stated it would be much easier on the floor using the cherry picker to lift the front of the car off the K
 
I'm facing a similar dilemma. I want to install the assembly but I have a scissor lift. It will support the shell just fine - until all the weight is added - then it will be out of balance unless I reposition the car.

My current thought is to use the lift to raise the rear portion of the car and an engine hoist to raise the front. Install the assembly. Install dollies of the front and rear then roll the car back to where the scissor lift will safely support it.

As you can see, there would be a LOT of weight hanging off that one end !!

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Sell that scissor lift and get a real one. Could cause more trouble than good the one day you don’t pay attention.
 
I considred that last week but too much hassle right now. The floor isn’t thick enough for a two post.
 
Just drop the whole unit out of the bottom. It will take less time and you won't hurt the car.
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I have done it on the floor, without removing the engine.
I'm curious what you used to support the engine? Like I said my engine bay is pretty nice and I dont want to mess it up consmetically. Is it as simple as a 4x4 or 6x6 across the shock towers?
 
The rear is supported by the trans mount. Maybe a couple uprights sitting on the front frame rails and supporting a crossbeam. I eouldn’t want to support all that weight on the inner fenders.
 
The rear is supported by the trans mount. Maybe a couple uprights sitting on the front frame rails and supporting a crossbeam. I eouldn’t want to support all that weight on the inner fenders.
I've seen it done like that on the youtube but I like using the frame better. Maybe it's just easier to remove the engine too? you know..."while we're in there" which is the beginning of many a disaster.
 
fwiw my rb with Dougs headers slips up between the frame rails with room to spare. Maybe 1/4” per side.
 
After the car is up on jack stands and everything is disconnected, I lifted the front of the engine with an engine hoist, dropped the K frame and then set the front of the engine down on blocks. The frame was going to be out for a while, and I didn't want the engine hanging on the hoist that long.
 
I'm curious what you used to support the engine? Like I said my engine bay is pretty nice and I dont want to mess it up consmetically. Is it as simple as a 4x4 or 6x6 across the shock towers?
Yes, I used a piece of 1'1/4" pipe across the fenders to hold the front of the engine up while I swapped the k-frame out. A 4x4 would work fine, maybe even over kill.
 
69 Charger
My K frame was broken on one side so I had to swap it out for another one
Put the car up on jack stands so I could get under it
I used a couple pieces of 6X6 square wood we had laying around that would sit on the inner fenders
They were tall enough that that I could put something across the top of them and be above the fenders
Got a chain around the front of the engine and over the top of the cross piece as tight as I could get it
Then wedged some more spacers under each side till it had the full weight of the front of the motor on the chain then un hooked the engine mount bolts
I already had the torsion bars slide back andlower control arms popped apart
Get the steering column unhooked from the steering box
Take out the 4 K frame bolts and out it came
Did not even have to drain the rad

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