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Tapered axle removal

RustyRatRod

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As yall know, I have a 65 Coronet. It has the old style 8.75 in it with the tapered axles. Holdover? Swapped in? Doesn't really matter, it's what I have and I am using it. I got the hubs and drums off. No big deal. But what about the axles themselves? It appears that they simply slide into place with the races sliding into the axle housing ends, however, they ain't wantin to come out. Anybody have any tips?
 
Rusty, You did take the backing plates off correct?
 
Yup. Hubs and drums and backin plates. Even the metal shims around the axle flanges.
 
I ended up needing to use a slide hammer to get them out. I loosely reattached the hub/drum and bolted my Harbor freight slide hammer to the studs and started hammering.

It took many choice words and some time but they finally popped out.
 
Slide hammer works for me every time.
 
Yeah, the cup on the tapered bearing is just a little tight in the housing.
Just like the others have said, Slide hammer.
I've had mine out so many times when they see me they just give up.
 
Hub and drum

As yall know, I have a 65 Coronet. It has the old style 8.75 in it with the tapered axles. Holdover? Swapped in? Doesn't really matter, it's what I have and I am using it. I got the hubs and drums off. No big deal. But what about the axles themselves? It appears that they simply slide into place with the races sliding into the axle housing ends, however, they ain't wantin to come out. Anybody have any tips?


Rusty

Here is some information that might interest you.Conversion for slide off drums.


http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion


Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff! I actually have all the stuff to do that! I just gotta get apart first. I am waiting on new 3/4 - 20 nuts so I can put the hubs on loosely. This one was missin both nuts. Thanks yall I am sure I will get them out.
 
The easiest way to remove those axles......take the whole rear end and throw it in the trash. :)
 
Find someone with gym weights. slip a 20 pounder on and screw on the nut with a big washer.Have at it.
 
Sorry guys. I slam disagree. These rear ends held up behind Max Wedges and Hemis. I think it will be just find behind my 383.
 
Sorry guys. I slam disagree. These rear ends held up behind Max Wedges and Hemis. I think it will be just find behind my 383.

they do seem like they are a PITA to work on though Rob, no? {i don't really know as i've never worked on one, just read a lot about it}
 
Jeez, it's just a press on drum and with the right tool, it will make all the difference in the world when ya need to service them.

x2 with what rusty said!!!!
 
Jeez, it's just a press on drum and with the right tool, it will make all the difference in the world when ya need to service them.

x2 with what rusty said!!!!

the right tools make ALL the difference!!!
 
the right tools make ALL the difference!!!

Yup - although I did swap mine out for a '68 rear. My tapered axle drums were junk from all of the previous owners prying them off without the proper tool. But they really aren't bad once you have the correct hub puller.

- - - Updated - - -

Here's the puller for the drums. As others have said, a slide hammer works well for the axle shafts.



Puller.jpg

- - - Updated - - -
 
Doing the conversion suggested in the wiki article will eliminate the 99% of the difficulty in servicing the tapered axle 8.75 rear. I know because I wrote the article. These rears held up just fine under early max wedge and street wedge cars and unless you're planning on spending most of your time at the strip there is no good reason to swap it out once the brake conversion is accomplished. Of course as with anything mechanical, having the correct tool always helps.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion
 
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