westie47
Well-Known Member
Well, heads are off...
Left side:
Left side:
Yeah, I'm going to stick with the intake and carb...for now. I'm willing to put a new converter in, maybe 2500-2800 stall. Other than that, new springs and seals, as they are shot.The dual port has no place on this build IMO, but... since you have it and a carb to get it up and running.....
3.55’s or 3.91’s? Hummmmm
This doesn’t help a ton. Trying to fit in a cam that covers both isn’t ideal, but, my suggestion is a cam in the [email protected] intake duration do it. Limit the lift to no more than .520-.530 and check the retainer to seal clearance. You may get away with more lift, but it isn’t the end of the world if you don’t take full advantage.
I myself would put the centerline at a 108.
Remember that if your looking at LA roller cams to recalculate the lift. Just divide the lift by 1.5 then multiply it by 1.6 for the new lift. This will also ad a tad of intensity to the cam.
I spraypaint a spot on the flexplate & vert,never guess!Yes, a good first step always. The bolt holes only line up one way but it's better to know before putting together.
Do you have that evenly spaced 8 bolt crank?I spraypaint a spot on the flexplate & vert,never guess!
So I could go a little bigger than the Voodoo 250?The dual port has no place on this build IMO, but... since you have it and a carb to get it up and running.....
3.55’s or 3.91’s? Hummmmm
This doesn’t help a ton. Trying to fit in a cam that covers both isn’t ideal, but, my suggestion is a cam in the [email protected] intake duration do it. Limit the lift to no more than .520-.530 and check the retainer to seal clearance. You may get away with more lift, but it isn’t the end of the world if you don’t take full advantage.
I myself would put the centerline at a 108.
Remember that if your looking at LA roller cams to recalculate the lift. Just divide the lift by 1.5 then multiply it by 1.6 for the new lift. This will also ad a tad of intensity to the cam.
You could but a lot depends on your gear ratio, tire size and if you are willing to change the converter out to a higher stall unit.So I could go a little bigger than the Voodoo 250?
I’m not sure what you mean here. So......If the factory converter is balanced does that limit which aftermarket converter I can get?
I'm sticking with the Voodoo 250! Done!If you are sticking with the dished pistons keep the 250 Lunati or 256 Howards would be the next up NO BIGGER
Manifold and Carb keep em
new manifold just saves weight at your rpm range no benefit for power
you can't beat a TQ- just take the time to learn how to tune and tune your distributor
new springs, stem seals and check clearance
do a valve job if guides are sloppy
new timing chain
be happy and smile
BTW the MOPAR 340 would take gear and converter changes
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR CONVERTER
run new cam first and see
do a compression test when you get a few miles on it and let us know how it's working
and you do not need or want roller tip rockers
just get your shafts on the way they came off
inspect the tips of your rockers and replace if worn as more lift will have them traveling more than they are worn to and cause great increase in pressure when they rub over the worn ridge
new stock rockers are cheap
I'm sticking with the Voodoo 250, not touching the transmission, just doing a service on it. I took the heads to the machine shop as I am not equipped for that kind of work. They will clean and magnaflux them, then put in new springs and seals. Nothing fancy, just enough spring to handle that cam. I'll put in a double roller timing chain and possibly a windage tray.You could but a lot depends on your gear ratio, tire size and if you are willing to change the converter out to a higher stall unit.
I’m not sure what you mean here. So......
The 360 is externally balanced via the damper and torque converter. IF you want to use a neutral balanced torque converter, you will need a B&M flexplate which is designed to do this trick. They are about a $100.
You will need to know if your trans is a lock up model. IF it is. You have a big problem. You can’t use it with the cheaper non lock up neutral balance converters which are by compare, a dime a dozen or less. (Still a lot of bucks for a good one and don’t skimp here ether!)
IF you don’t want to spend money on swapping out a converter then limit your cam duration at .050 to a max of [email protected]. A cam of this size requires no upgraded converter. It will have a basic rpm range of approximately 1500 - 5500 rpm. It will make good torque and HP for the street. In a 3300 lbs. car, it should run high to mid 14’s if your tune is good and the gear ratio and tires support it.
Been there, done that.
Aero-brick!! You got that right lol. It ended up being my tow truck for my 68 road runner back in the early 80's. It wasn't long before getting a LWB 3/4 ton for pulling....another 79 and it was better suited for it too. Usually ran everything down the 1/4 mile but that truck wasn't one of them.@Cranky , I’d bet it is 4K pounds and better loaded up with gas and yourself. Trucks are not as light as one would think. Ether way, that’s a good time slip for that aero-brick.
The picture is just showing my lack of knowledge With the motor at TDC, I assumed a Factory cam would be degreed at 0.we don't know if your cam is stock or what
you could measure the lift (lobe height - base circle)
that water most likely was when you pulled the heads
IDK what the picture is supposed to show