If you get bored some weekend, take a paper towell center tube, and tie pieces of string to it, about 3-4" long and a 1/4" or so apart as you go up the tube's length. Tape one end of the tube to your hood, right in front of the bulge so it sticks up like a smokestack, and take the car for a drive.
If you watch the strings, you'll see how the air is flowing over your hood. the area from the base to two inches or so up will be whipping around in all directions, and the strings above that will be pushed straight back. Thats because the area from the hood to 2" up is filled with air that's roiled by paint imperfections, the design of the hood, air rising up between the front of the hood and the valance, and heat. This air moves about in all directions no matter how fast you go, which is why true ram air systems have to have openings that are at least two inches (preferably three inches) above the hood height. If you look at the 440 Six Pack hoods, they are high enough to get past the roiled air and take in smooth air. The inlets on the 73-74 hoods are way too low to allow smooth air in, so they can never be used to support a ram air system.
What they can be used for is to bring in cooler air from outside the engine bay, which allows for a better fuel/air mixture than hotter air from the engine bay. You just need to seal off the air cleaner. I did this by making a large baseplate that replaced the base of the aircleaner, and had a 4" rubber seal going around it that mated to the underside of the buldge when the hood was closed. I also closed off the openings under the hood near the back of the buldge so all the air being sucked into the air cleaner came through the opened up buldge vents.