• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Torq-Thrust Wheels vs Standard Lug Studs

MoparHonda

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:47 AM
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
243
Reaction score
33
Location
Florida
Got some new Torq-Thrust wheels for my '70 Plymouth GTX. Wheels look good, but they are quite a bit thicker than the factory wheels.

It now looks like my studs may be too short. Looked at the Dorman catalog...

What did others with Torq-Thrust wheels do? Did you get new longer wheel studs? If so, from where?
 
Do you have a picture of the wheel hub? Most of these wheels take a ‘mag’ style lug that has a shoulder that goes into the wheel. Studs will stay the way they are.
 
I am going through the same thing because I am switching from Crager unilug to their direct drilled models that use a 60* conical lug.
Here is the response I got from Cass aka Dr. Diff.
I ordered and have the longer studs, but haven't got them installed yet.

"I would try Dorman # 610-290, or Moroso for the front:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-290
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-46180

Mr Gasket rear studs are the closest to what you are looking for. No other brand of long stud has the correct knurl size See below:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-4311/overview/

If you install the extra long studs, you must cut the end of the fastener, or run open ended lug nuts.

Cass"
 
Thank you, 69L. Yes, the Torq-Thrust wheels do have a ‘mag’ style lug with the shoulder that goes into the wheel. Let me take a look and see how much stud goes into the lug.

In any event, I've got to replace the 10 left hand studs on the driver side, I've got the Dorman part numbers for the replacements.

Thank you, Hunt2Elk, I will take a look at these, the more of the stud inside the lug, the more comfortable I am. I already have to replace the 10 left hand studs on the driver side.
 
Dont be a tease man, post up some pictures of the wheels by your car...
 
We can't help without more info. American Racing Wheels makes a few different styles of the Torque-thrust Wheel. If they were new in the box, there should have been some instructions on installing and torque-ing the wheels. We know that the RoadRunner take a 1/2 " lug nut but there are different lengths and they don't need to be special length. Just need the proper lug-nut.

lug-nut-types.jpg
 
@MoparLeo

I have a question about the ET style.

Does the shank seat on the lug stud shoulder at the same time the cone tightens on the wheel?

That seems awfully precise.

The reason I ask is that I have a set of Motor Wheel Spyders and they take that style nut, but the depth is more shallow.

MW nuts are expensive. ET nuts are cheap. I'm thinking of cutting the ET nuts down.

How precise do I have to be with the cuts?
 
Last edited:
@MoparLeo

I have a question about the ET style.

Does the shank seat on the lug stud shoulder at the same time the cone tightens on the wheel?

That seems awfully precise.

The reason I ask is that I have a set of Motor Wheel Spyders and they take that style nut, but the depth is more shallow.

MW nuts are expensive. ET nuts are cheap. I'm thinking of cutting the ET nuts down.

How precise do I have to be with the cuts?
The shank doesn't seat on anything.
 
Back in the day the mag wheel nuts for the Cragar and American were available in left hand thread. No need to change the studs if they are still available.
 
I tried to find 1/2" left-hand ET nuts for my Hurst wheels. As far as I found, they do not exist.
 
@MoparHonda , if you really have NEW torque thrusts, i would be willing to bet that you have conical seat wheels. Ite easy to tell. Conical seat will have a large chamfer on the front side and a lug thru hole around 5/8 inch (plenty big enough for 1/2 studs, also big enough for 14mm .550 and 15mm,.590 studs. If you have the older style that uses mag lugs, the thru hole will be around .700+, for a .687 11/16 shouldered lug, and woll either have a flat face on the wheel front, or a recess for a mag lug washer.
The idea of the mag lug with a shoulder was so that no matter how thick the center of the wheel was, (the early skinny fronts from crager supertrick, and from centerline autodrag were over an inch thick in the center) you could get the right length shoulder to use all of the stock available threads.
The problem with the new conicals is what you have already found. With the thicker wheel center necessary with aluminum wheels, the thread engagement with the stock studs gets shaky.
If i were in your spot, i would knock out (carefully, you know what i mean!) a front and a rear stud, and measure to get an idea of what the knurl size is ,and go shopping. It looks like hunt2elk has given you a shortcut, but i would still want to confirm what i have and then what i need.
The pictures show a few of my torque thrusts, and one cheap copy (that i found later weren't any cheaper than the real thing, darn it!) The gray with a tire on it is on my 57 temporarily, and shows what too short looks like. That has around three usable thread on a 7/16 stud. The other gray and the polished show conical center wheels
I personally have three inch studs on front and rear on three cars, with open end lugs. They were originally installed because nhra requires the lugs to extend a certain amount thru the wheel, and the centerline skinnies were almost 1 1/2"thick. I've got threes on the back on my 62, but i can still use steelies and hubcaps, no problem.

20200727_194453.jpg 20180806_151149.jpg 20180806_151037.jpg 20180806_150809.jpg
 
@Commando66 , did you try summit? The have about fifteen listings for lefthand threads, but i dont know what style your Hurst wheels use.
Or did you already change to righthand?
 
One more Q on ET nuts for Spyders-

The Spyders have a round void in the back around the lug hole.

You can see a steel reinforcement ring cast into the center around each hole.

What are the odds of pulling that ring out through the void if the lug nut shank doesn't seat on the stud shoulder?
 
If they are in fact new/current wheels, why would you even think of modifying anything. Call American Racing and get the correct fasteners. Period. Do not listen to any other advice. Makes no sense to do otherwise. These are not the "old days of making things fit". The proper, safe parts are available from the manufacturers of the wheels. There is a reason that ET style "Uni-lug" washers and lugs are not used new anymore. Wheels fell off. Hub centric, hub supported is the only safe way to go. The lug needs to thread as far as possible without bottoming out on the hub. Also remember that the oe studs were soft and only rated for about 55 lbs for 7/16" and 65 lbs. for 1/2 " If you are using original lugs and studs, think about how many tight/loose cycles that they have been subjected to. How many times would you use a head bolt, rod bolt, main bolt, you get the idea. If you are driving your classic cars on public roads, make the brakes and wheels/tires/studs/lugs safe for the other people on the street. Replace your studs with new, modern mfg studs and lugs. Much superior metallurgy available today.
Again check with the manufacturer that you have the correct wheel for your application. Just because you have the correct bolt pattern doesn't mean that they were designed for every stud diameter.
 
Last edited:
Thank you MoparLeo, YY1, and 33Imp, agreed with all you say. I'm in the process of switching the left side of the car to right hand threads. (I'm working a job, so I can only devote so much time to this.)
 
Do not use Dorman Lug nuts they are total China made junk! I bought a set of their long shank lugs,and I stripped the threads out of them with my breaker bar and a socket by hand!
 
Knock those bass ackward lefty loosy lug nuts out and install some NORMAL ones....

DSCF0158.JPG
 
it's "lefty-thighty, righty-loosey" for those.
 
The rule of thumb is thread engagement needs to at least equal the bolt/stud diameter provided your not threading into a softer/weaker material. I'd get a nut barely started then measure how far it threads on, if it goes on more than 1/2" your good... a little extra is good insurance.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top