Torsion bar suggestion

[OCTAVIOUS]

I have read thru the post from the search but not finding an answer to my liking.
I just got back into the hobby with a purchase of a 1969 Satellite convertible. It is a slant 6, 3 on the tree with manual drum/drum. The front suspension is just a bit soft for my taste. I was looking at the MP .92 Torsion bars vs a used set of .90s other than cost would there be much difference? current bar is .86

suggestions, comments?

 

[pnora]

To me leave it alone and buy good shocks.

 

[F4R/T]

I’ll second that .. Put some bilstien shocks on and enjoy the ride..

 

[440Coronet500]

Not a huge difference in torsional spring rate between the 0.92 / 0.90 torsion bars. I would recommend a 1.03 diameter bar for your B body. That would give you a stiffer ride especially if you don't have a front sway bar. 440'

 

[Cranky]

It's much cheaper and a lot less work to throw on a set of decent shocks before going for the bars. I've done it way too many times over the years. Besides, that car shouldn't need a stiff spring being it's a bit light on the front in the first place. My /6 with factory AC 66 Belvedere responded pretty nicely with better shocks! After all, do you want it to ride like a 3/4 ton truck?

 

[OCTAVIOUS]

No truck ride please! I will check the shock route

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

@PST can give you all the info needed.

 

[4mulas]

I haven’t bought them yet but MANY members recommend bilstein shocks. Certainly not cheap but apparently are great

 

[R413]

Change those torsion bars first thing. Slant 6 bars are very wimpy.
.90 is 383-4bbl
.92 is 440-hemi bars

I’d use the .90 but either would be fine. 1.03 is overkill for that car. Converts are flexible cars and those big ones will uncover that much more.

I put the .86 bars in my car for drag racing and they work fine for that, but they are wimpy and don’t corner worth a darn.

 

[AR67GTX]

I tried to find the .92” MP bars last spring and no one (no one at least reliable) had them in stock. Finally went with the PST bars. Not sure if the supply issues have turned around or not.

 

[Cranky]

Change those torsion bars first thing. Slant 6 bars are very wimpy.
.90 is 383-4bbl
.92 is 440-hemi bars

I’d use the .90 but either would be fine. 1.03 is overkill for that car. Converts are flexible cars and those big ones will uncover that much more.

I put the .86 bars in my car for drag racing and they work fine for that, but they are wimpy and don’t corner worth a darn.

After sticking much better shocks on my 66 and lowering it along with more camber in the front end, it cornered pretty dang good.....it also had 7" wheels on it with tall tires so it was a pleasant surprise that it responded so well. I still say to try decent shocks first. Heck, I even had the bigger bars up in the rafters but also had the shocks which the car needed so I gave them a try. After that, didn't see the need for bigger bars......and if his front end is spongy, it needs shocks anyways.

 

[Mike67]

@PST can give you all the info needed.

And you get 10% discount for being a member here!

 

[hunt2elk]

Best bang for your buck are the 1.03 bars from PST. They also sell Billstein shocks. 10% of the order because you are a member here as well.

 

[super-bee_ski]

I have read thru the post from the search but not finding an answer to my liking.
I just got back into the hobby with a purchase of a 1969 Satellite convertible. It is a slant 6, 3 on the tree with manual drum/drum. The front suspension is just a bit soft for my taste. I was looking at the MP .92 Torsion bars vs a used set of .90s other than cost would there be much difference? current bar is .86

suggestions, comments?

View attachment 1154569

The larger diameter Torsion Bars give a stiffer ride

Just do as the "Guys" suggested, new shocks AND "Dial" your Bars up !

 

[Cranky]

The larger diameter Torsion Bars give a stiffer ride

Just do as the "Guys" suggested, new shocks AND "Dial" your Bars up !

Heck, I lowered mine to where the lower control arm bump stops were within 1" or so of the stop brackets.....

 

[R413]

Have you guys ever driven a B-body with 6 cylinder .86 torsion bars? They make the car loose goosy. Way different than a 318 car. It would be a big improvement with the .90 bars.

And the convertible just adds more weight to the equation.

 

[AR67GTX]

I have limited experience with the PST bars on the road in my 66 so far, but initial impressions were that the it rode pretty much the same as my 67 GTX with the stock .92” bars.

 

[mrmolding]

My 70 RR's torsion bars were a little pitted so I found these MP Hemi torsion bars at Classic Industries: P1857780 and P1857781. I already have Bilsteins and loved Bilsteins vs previous owner's KYBs, but I can not tell the difference that much with newer bars, but nice to have something newer in place.

 

[Photon440]

Having stiffer springs is a common route that people use when looking for handling improvements. It doesn't always work. They're great for smooth tracks and roads though. However, softer springs can do a better job of keeping the tires on the road if you're on a bumpy, irregular surface. Some tuners use this knowledge and even dial in softer spring rates than the factory used, but counter it with extra stiff anti-sway bars and better shocks - getting the benefit of flat cornering without the rough ride.

 

[mrmolding]

Having stiffer springs is a common route that people use when looking for handling improvements. It doesn't always work. They're great for smooth tracks and roads though. However, softer springs can do a better job of keeping the tires on the road if you're on a bumpy, irregular surface. Some tuners use this knowledge and even dial in softer spring rates than the factory used, but counter it with extra stiff anti-sway bars and better shocks - getting the benefit of flat cornering without the rough ride.

That’s why I went with mp bars. A little thicker and could not find nos or new bars in correct thickness in stock.