Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP

[Someotherguy]

I will be busy with body work and paint today, so i just want to wish you good luck in todays efforts to get it running...

 

[440beep]

and how's it going.....................

 

[74Runneer]

I just finished putting the new ignition back in. Now I'm going to do that diagnosis.

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Okay ecu diagnosis checked out so now I'm going to do the test like post #194 said

 

[440beep]

Ok, if the new ignition ECU checks out fine with the self diagnostics built into it, THEN you must find out where the new rotor lines up when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center.

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I just finished putting the new ignition back in. Now I'm going to do that diagnosis.

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Okay ecu diagnosis checked out so now I'm going to do the test like post #194 said

Ok, so then its got to be an ignition timing issue (most likely). We are focusing on where that rotor is pointing when #1 is at TDC. Like I stated earlier, it could be in a different position on this new distributor when compared to the old one.

 

[74Runneer]

Okay I lined up the #1 cylinder so its at tdc and the timing mark looks dead on. Hmmm, with the vacuum canister pointing toward around 10 o'clock, the rotor is pointing at about 2 oclock. Does that mean the dizzy is 180 off?

 

[440beep]

Leave the dizzy where's it at, and move the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap so that it lines up with where the rotor is pointing (2 clock). NOW, realign the rest of the spark plug wires going clockwise using the number sequence from post 194. So you should have #1 wire at the 2oclock position, then #8 and so on.

Okay I lined up the #1 cylinder so its at tdc and the timing mark looks dead on. Hmmm, with the vacuum canister pointing toward around 10 o'clock, the rotor is pointing at about 2 oclock. Does that mean the dizzy is 180 off?

 

[Someotherguy]

10 o'clock on the vacuum canister is waaay too retarded...looking at it from the front of the car, the nipple end on the canister should in the 8:30-9:00 o'clock area...

 

[440beep]

So before changing the wires like I stated above, reposition the dizzy based on Otherguys advice above. Fire the car up and see what happens.

10 o'clock on the vacuum canister is waaay too retarded...looking at it from the front of the car, the nipple end on the canister should in the 8:30-9:00 o'clock area...

 

[74Runneer]

Okay hows this?
Now align the #1 spark plug wire with this and do the correct order? Got it.
Its supposed to be 16* btdc for initial timing, does that look about right?

 

[440beep]

Yes, the #1 spark plug wire on the dizzy cap should be right at the 2 oclock position so that it matches where that rotor is pointing.

 

[74Runneer]

Okay it sounds like it wants to start! But its still not going. I think it might be bacause the battery only has 11.89V so I have the charger on it now.
I raised the compression up about .5-1 point so I think it would help if the battery had more umphh behind it.

 

[440beep]

Charge that battery!!!!

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[74Runneer]

Okay I tried it and it sounded like it was going to start up but then i heard this knocking noise????!!!!!!! It almost sounded like the fan was hitting something. What do you think it could be???

What would happen if something, say a nut or screw or something like that fell into the u shaped passage over the crossover passage on the head? Cuz that could have happened.

 

[440beep]

On my RB motor, I've personally dropped a few things in that same U shaped area: accelerator pump cam, and a nut or two. Car still runs fine and made no odd noises afterwards. I keep trying to figure out whether that U shaped area leads to the motor interior, but that doesn't make sense that it would. On the small block, not sure.

The fan's not hitting anything is it?

Does the car sound better now while trying to start compared to the other times?

 

[74Runneer]

Yes it sounds better. I feel like it might start if it werent for that weird noise. Its almost sounds like it threw a bolt out and the bolt hit something metal. Thats what i thought it was the first time. I checked the fan and it doesnt appear to be hitting anything.

I doubt that passage doesnt lead anywhere because why would it be left open for dirt and water to get to it?

 

[superbeedave]

It could be lifter noise. They all could have bled down due to all the cranking you were doing to it. If it is lifter noise and nothing else it may
take a minute or so to fill back up with oil before it quiets down.

 

[440beep]

So should he "let er rip?"

It could be lifter noise. They all could have bled down due to all the cranking you were doing to it. If it is lifter noise and nothing else it may
take a minute or so to fill back up with oil before it quiets down.

 

[Gpuller]

Might as well fire it up, keep an eye on the oil pressure. Like superbeedave said the lifters might need pumping up.

 

[74Runneer]

Okay do you think its bad to continue to crank it over? It wasnt doing it before but now that the timing it closer and there is pressure it is making a weird noise. Could it be from not a high enough octane? Im not sure what it could be???

 

[khryslerkid]

You could always remove the plugs, get a socket on the front crank bolt and turn it over slowly until you locate where the noise is comming from... ( You guys are killing me! Lol)