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Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP

You may need to turn it slightly as you are cranking - you will hear a noticeable difference when the engine turns over. Shouldn't need to turn the distributor too much.

**** be very careful about loose clothing etc over the fan.
 
Link works. Did you try moving the distributor while cranking - move a little either direction...depending on the start point? Also, did you "shoot" a bit of gas into the engine?
 
would that really make a difference? i tried starting fluid and tried pumping the pedal a couple times
 
Wonder if its flooded?

Again, we know we have air, fuel and spark. WTF?!!?!
 
WTF! 2 hours have gone by and no post, No nothing! Did we break for dinner? Bathroom break? Play video games or what? Time is now 7:58 my time!
 
yea, the first video sounded better than the second (I had my foot pressed on the imaginary gas pedal giving her gas).

It was mentioned way earlier in this, but is the coil wire installed correctly?
 
While your at it recheck the air gap on the pickup. I think .006-.008 just to rule this one out also. And like 440beep stated please double check and make sure you
hooked up the wires correctly for the new electronic ign. harness.
 
Yeah and if i add gas it just backfires and makes noised from the carb. The airgap on what pickup?
I am getting spark, I have a spark tester hooked up to a spark plug and it looks like im getting a solid spark, its pretty bright.
 
Crickets! Is that it for this post this evening?
 
Yeah and if i add gas it just backfires and makes noised from the carb. The airgap on what pickup?
I am getting spark, I have a spark tester hooked up to a spark plug and it looks like im getting a solid spark, its pretty bright.

Are we certain yet that the TDC mark is not 180 degrees out - is it possible the distributor was installed 180 out?? I can't remember where we got to with that. Remember the crank turns twice for every distributor rotation. Back-firing will result from being 180 out.
 
If you take the dizzy cap off and the rotor, this is what you should see, of course not this simple. Need to double check that airgap with a brass feeler gauge as the pickup coil is magnetic.

0900c152800879fc[1].gif

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I think we've tripled check this, but the way things are going, may need to do it again. Time for the paper towel in the #1 cylinder again and a breaker bar/socket on the crank for spinning purposes.

Are we certain yet that the TDC mark is not 180 degrees out - is it possible the distributor was installed 180 out?? I can't remember where we got to with that. Remember the crank turns twice for every distributor rotation. Back-firing will result from being 180 out.
 
If you take the dizzy cap off and the rotor, this is what you should see, of course not this simple. Need to double check that airgap with a brass feeler gauge as the pickup coil is magnetic.

View attachment 131479

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I think we've tripled check this, but the way things are going, may need to do it again. Time for the paper towel in the #1 cylinder again and a breaker bar/socket on the crank for spinning purposes.

With the battery disconnected
 
With the battery disconnected, checking roughly like this.

imagesCADB0N4W.jpg
 
iirc, a matchbook cover is just about the right thickness to check your air gap. Works on point gaps too, I think. If I'm wrong, correct me quickly...I don't wanna send 74R down a wrong path.
 
You know what, i think it may be 180 out. If you look at this picture View attachment 131481
If the vacuum canister was pointed to 0*bdtc it would almost be pointed to the back of the engine bay, thus making the #1 cylinder be around 8 oclock position which is 180 from 2 oclock where the rotor is at. Does anyone follow?
 
You are correct. DAMN GOOD POINT!!! Forgot about the matchbbook cover I had in my glovebox for checking that. yes, use a matchbook cover if you don't have a brass feeler gauge.

iirc, a matchbook cover is just about the right thickness to check your air gap. Works on point gaps too, I think. If I'm wrong, correct me quickly...I don't wanna send 74R down a wrong path.

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Yea, wasn't Otherguy's vacuum canister on the opposite side?

Man, I hope I get this much help when I install my QA1 upper control arms later this week.

You know what, i think it may be 180 out. If you look at this picture View attachment 131481
If the vacuum canister was pointed to 0*bdtc it would almost be pointed to the back of the engine bay, thus making the #1 cylinder be around 8 oclock position which is 180 from 2 oclock where the rotor is at. Does anyone follow?
 
No that was just a picture from the back of the engine i think. But does my thought process above make any sense?

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You know 440Beep, if I could help you, I damn sure would!
 
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