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valves floating?

[QUOTE="daytona kid, post: Here's a question, which of the 2 fittings should I have my vac advance hose connected to? Before or after the butterflies?

View attachment 993368[/QUOTE]
The one towards center with the plug appears to be ported vacuum. That would be the normal location. The ported location will only pull vacuum with the throttle open. The other port will pull at idle.
Doug
 
I'll swap them and see what happens. I've been curious if I had it on the correct one but it cranks, idles, and runs ok, until the hi revs, so I left it as is. Probably not the cause of the problem but may improve something. Thanks Doug
 
Try running it without the vacuum advance hooked up

Plug those ports on your carb

Just run your mechanical advance

See what happens

I have read some negative issues with those Proform Dist and spark scatter

Sorry to hear it wasn’t the ECU

And you verified fuel pressure at that 4300 RPM
 
I'll try that next test drive... I'm also going to try revving it till it stalls and shut the fuel pump off as soon as it does, then look in the carb bowl's windows and make sure they are showing fuel where they should or near anyway. Someone here suggested that or something similar. I'm still wondering about fuel starving because even tho the gauge was showing good there could be or have been a problem like the sticky float needle that would not affect the gauge. If the possibility the sticky needle is causing a problem, and if it is from ethanol dust/corrosion, What can I do to prevent this? Some type of fuel additive? Oh and the jets in the carb are 74 fronts and 84 rears., which seems about right to me, for no power valve.
 
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Still have not done any more test runs yet, but I may have thought of something that could be the problem or part of it anyway. I put a holley regulator in the fuel line right before the carb. It has 1 inlet and 2 outlets. I plugged 1 of the outlets and ran the other to the carb's 1 inlet dual outlet feed line. Thinking about that now I'm wondering if that is cutting the fuel flow in half, and causing starvation. I guess I should do what someone suggested earlier and check how much it is flowing. May have to replumb the line/s.

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The dyno here has two of those on it, plumbed using only one outlet each.
I’ve tested motors making 800hp using only one regulator/one line...... no issues.
 
Thanks, that's why I post stuff like that before I do it. Now I can forget that possibility and not waste time and effort. I think I asked someone if it was ok plugging 1 side when I put the regulator on.
 
I made a video of revving in neutral till stall. Takes about 3 revs before it happens. You can see my throttle movements. I shut the fuel pump off as soon as it stalled then checked the fuel bowls levels, which were good.
 
I don't think so, because it cranks right back up after about 20 seconds, and running fine. And I've never smelled any excess fuel. But will do it again and pull a plug or 2 just to make sure.. That's another reason I keep going back to fuel starvation, If it weren't fuel starvation I would probably smell fuel and see fuel on plugs. If they're dry after a test like in the vid (where you see my foot still in the throttle as it goes dead) then that tells me there's no fuel... Anyone agree with that reasoning?
 
But you said the sight plugs on the Holley showed fuel so , plus the engine is not even under load and it’s cutting out
 
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Do you have any other Distributor you could throw in there , even a points Distributor
Was mentioned earlier

And any ole 1.5 Ohm Primary resistance inductive oil filled coil
 
Is it possible that you try a different carb on it that you know is working well to get buy that 3 pump n dies n see if it will rev higher than 4300 rpm,that will sure put the fuel question problem on the back burner,n go from there
 
I don't have another distributor. I did another test tho, just like the vid and checked the plugs, they were dry. Does it not makes sense that the plugs would be wet if it were anything making it lose fire? Especially with me still on the throttle as it quits. If it's ignition, where is the unburned fuel? I'm wondering, just because the float bowls are full of fuel doesn't mean it's getting out of them, or maybe just not at hi rpm. I've had 2 new coils on it, both seemed fine and didn't affect the stall problem. The new one feels a little peppier tho, may be partly my imagination.
 
From that vid it sounds to me your running out of full,and with plugs being dry your out of fuel
 
get someone to spray fuel into carb when this stalling **** happens you will know for sure than
 
Is it possible that you try a different carb on it that you know is working well to get buy that 3 pump n dies n see if it will rev higher than 4300 rpm,that will sure put the fuel question problem on the back burner,n go from there
I don't have another carb but that is a good idea. I'll see if I can find one.. I have had motors in the past that I did some things to that caused air flow turbulence and made the jets not release the fuel. One was called a stub stack, took it off and motor ran great. So that said, I'm wondering about the 1in spacer I have under the carb on a stock intake. Surely it's not causing a problem, Ya think?
 
get someone to spray fuel into carb when this stalling **** happens you will know for sure than
I was thinking about that but I'll have to do it by myself and I'm skeered, lol. Call me wuussy. Maybe I can get a neighbor to help. That would end the mystery tho as far as spark or fuel.
 
If its running out of fuel that spacer should not effect anything,your plugs are dry,something is making that carb run dry or low or not releasing the fuel,that spacer if anything would make it run leaner
 
I was thinking about that but I'll have to do it by myself and I'm skeered, lol. Call me wuussy. Maybe I can get a neighbor to help. That would end the mystery tho as far as spark or fuel.
the worst thing that will happen is a back fire n frying some unwanted hair lol
 
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