Viper T56 install

[conv67bdere]

Great job on that install 747Mopar . . . you make it look so easy too . . . thanks for the tutorial, I'll be doing just about the same thing with my TR6060 install

 

[HYRDGOON]

Damn those Slip Yoke's are HUGE! You weren't kidding!

Appreciate you taking the time to explain the rationale behind the decisions you made and everything completed looks better than great! Great catch on the starter bushing too I can see how that could go easily missed!

Did you say last night Stock Viper MC bore is 7/8"? Looking forward to the seeing you get your MC sorted and in place! I guess you can get your measurements for your driveshaft now too so that shouldn't take long. This is just awesome and considering you only had weekends to put to it (while doing a kids room in the process) This came together fast!

 

[747mopar]

Damn those Slip Yoke's are HUGE! You weren't kidding!

Appreciate you taking the time to explain the rationale behind the decisions you made and everything completed looks better than great! Great catch on the starter bushing too I can see how that could go easily missed!

Did you say last night Stock Viper MC bore is 7/8"? Looking forward to the seeing you get your MC sorted and in place! I guess you can get your measurements for your driveshaft now too so that shouldn't take long. This is just awesome and considering you only had weekends to put to it (while doing a kids room in the process) This came together fast!

Thanks Goon, just trying to put as much info out there as I can for anybody considering this so they know what they're getting into. In all honesty on a scale from 1-10 I'd give this one a 5, it's been a pretty easy process mostly because the guys at Quicktime did all the hard work making all of the parts fall where they should and then guys like Wookie and 69GTX chiming in helps as well. Yes, from everything I'm seeing the Vipers stock M.C. is a 7/8" bore so I'm actually a little smaller (1/16"). As for the speedy results? I thought it was taking to long haha but as long as I'm on the road by Spring I don't care. I really do want it done ASAP so I can save up some doe to get my A/C installed and touch a few things up but those things aren't "Fer Racin" and a 6 speed is so I'm just trying to prioritize.

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Here's the progress from last night, took all of the little pieces a showed earlier in the thread that I had made up for the M.C. mount and finally welded them up. Spent the majority of the night welding, drilling, tapping, test fitting and then painting but they are done except opening the top of the hole up a bit.

Pretty happy with it, I tapped the plates, threaded the 5/16" bolts in just past flush and then TIG'd them in so they would be easier to bolt into the car. They work out nice having the adjustable angle too, I snugged the bolts enough to hold it in place then crawled under the car and adjusted the angle and tightened everything down.







Here's the remote reservoir I bought for it, I know some will not like the plastic but "hey I like being able to see my fluid level" and I'll put it out of sight anyways.




Here it is installed.





Here's the 2 minor issues. The angle has the rod rubbing the top of the hole so I just need to open it up a bit and I have a brake line so close to it I'm worried about rubbing a hole in it so a bracket will be needed to hold it away.

 

[HYRDGOON]

That MC mount came together real nice. Good to see it's only a few minor tweaks away from being done.

 

[747mopar]

That MC mount came together real nice. Good to see it's only a few minor tweaks away from being done.

It's done!!!! Unless of coarse there's an issue with it just not working. Didn't know I was going to get some garage time but the family went to birthday party today and didn't have room for me.............. Oh darn!!! So with it being so beautiful outside today I cleaned up around the garage (didn't want to be to embarrassed for when Goon comes down) and I didn't want to be inside when it was so nice out (sweating in a sweater is awesome). Of coarse I couldn't be at the garage and not tinker so I got it squared away. I found an easy way to get the M.C. alignment right on the money too, with the linkage being heavy enough to pull the M.C. rod downhill (it's sprung to the center) I pulled it off and taped a short piece of TIG rod (boy is that stuff handy) to the stud and let it be my pointer. A couple trips under the car to tweak it and I had it. Much to my surprise the alignment stayed nearly spot on threw the whole stroke too so I think I'm set if my attachment point is right.

 

[HYRDGOON]

What took you so long!! hahaha

Sounds like it went really well and if this thing works half as good as you made it look then it will be AWESOME! Can't wait to see it in person and I really can't thank you enough for the extra pieces/work and direction you've provided.

Hopefully your driveshaft guy has your new shaft and yoke sorted for you quick and then I guess on to the next project? AC I think you said?

 

[747mopar]

The driveshaft won't be ordered for a little while............. I've learned to spread out my spending in fear of agitating the wife haha. No she's a pretty special girl but having a family I can't go balls to the walls on this stuff so I'll wait, scrap some accumulated metal, sell some unneeded parts and stand on the street corner (that probably wouldn't be very profitable)??? The A/C won't happen unless I pull some money out of my butt either but I have a couple woodworking side jobs lined up if it ever warms up (unheated wood shop).

 

[747mopar]

Not much to report, mounting the remote reservoir to the brake booster led me to removing it for a paint job since the factory Zinc plating didn't even make it a year. Reinstalling it turned out to be allot of fun by yourself and it's too damn cold to do anything anyways (single digits). The yoke is on it's way so that's one more thing to scratch off.

 

[747mopar]

Thanks to me finding out that Diesel fuel works very well in my torpedo heater I can get more done now (I wasn't paying $5.00 a gallon for Kerosene). It is bitter cold here (been single digits) to the point that it takes over an hour to just take the chill off in the garage so this little extra boost is a big help. Got a little more done, as I suspected the bleeder setup on the Viper T.O. made bleeding a walk in the park so in short order I had a full pedal. The bad news is the bleeder bleeds all over the inside of the bell housing (luckily I'm not using regular fluid), I looked at Goons and I don't think there's anything you can do about it???? If you look at the pic I have an arrow pointing where the bleeder goes into the T.O., this has a typical seat that when loosened leaks out the air or fluid. The arrow at the end is where the fluid comes out once it's bled but every time you crack it open it's unseating at the base and leaking into the bell housing??? I wonder if it's supposed to crack open up under that black plastic sleeve at the top instead of the bottom?



The other thing I found out today and suspected that I would is that the M.C. will need additional support. I had my dad pumping it while I bled it and you could see the M.C. moving quite a bit (flexing the firewall). I think the best way to deal with this is the same way they did the steering column and brake bracing. I'll look into making a rod or 2 on the inside to tie the M.C. into the rest of the column bracing.

Thinking about just buying a Dodge van driveshaft and making my own shaft???? I've done it before for a buddies drag car so why not do it for myself right.

 

[HYRDGOON]

I guess if there's a bright side it's figuring out these little things like the extra bracing for the MC in the "Off Season" so it's not hampering downtime! Sucks about the bleeder going into the bell though!

I'm sure everyone here would love to see your craftsmanship on a drive shaft so I say have at it!

 

[747mopar]

I guess if there's a bright side it's figuring out these little things like the extra bracing for the MC in the "Off Season" so it's not hampering downtime! Sucks about the bleeder going into the bell though!

I'm sure everyone here would love to see your craftsmanship on a drive shaft so I say have at it!

I'm trying to talk myself out of it, my luck it would be the first one that vibrated and I'd have to get it balanced anyways. Typically all I do is scribe a straight line on the side that doesn't have a weight, cut the weld off the yoke and shorten it in the lathe to keep it square. Then you have 2 perfectly squared pieces to mate together and weld, I've never had an issue but I've never had a 6 speed that will be spinning it really fast not to mention a ton of torque on top of that. I guess it depends on how cheap I can find a driveshaft (it cost $225.00 for a new built one).

 

[HYRDGOON]

I'm trying to talk myself out of it, my luck it would be the first one that vibrated and I'd have to get it balanced anyways. Typically all I do is scribe a straight line on the side that doesn't have a weight, cut the weld off the yoke and shorten it in the lathe to keep it square. Then you have 2 perfectly squared pieces to mate together and weld, I've never had an issue but I've never had a 6 speed that will be spinning it really fast not to mention a ton of torque on top of that. I guess it depends on how cheap I can find a driveshaft (it cost $225.00 for a new built one).

Ya I hear that! If the price to do it yourself isn't far off from the $225 then there's definitely a monetary value for the piece of mind that comes with it

 

[747mopar]

Need some help figuring out a shifter, I was going to use the original but I really don't like screw on handles (damn things always come loose). Another reason is because if I modify this shifter then I'll never be able to buy an off the shelf replacement so I'm buying a shifter that has 2 bolt holes meaning once I make a handle it will be a simple swap if ever needed. I also figured having a shifter that bolted on would make it easier and sturdier to get the handle location right so here's my pics. The big question is do all T56 shifters interchange? So far from what I've read is it seams most guys going with Viper trannies go with the Ford (Cobra) shifters?

First is my favorite but seams to be discontinued although I can pick it up new for around $100.00



This one is reasonably priced ($115.00) and says (Core/ Hurst) for the Brand whatever that means but honestly it looks like chit to me.



Next is the Pro 5.0 for $150.00, again know idea on if they are any good?



Last is a Ford racing shifter that looks really nice that Summit sells for $193.00 (I can get it for $150.00).



I'm leaning on the first one just because I won't be paying for a handle I won't use and it looks like a quality piece from a known name but can't get a positive answer on whether it will fit. I guess it doesn't matter since they offer a 14 day money back guarantee right.

 

[HYRDGOON]

I'd go #1 if available and #4 if not. As long as you keep it shiny and clean there should be no issues with that 14 day money back guarantee

 

[6speedGTX]

As far as I know, any of the t-56 shifters that utilize the rear position will work. None of the mid-shift ones will fit. Core shifters has several on eBay, the ones with the billet housings look good. They sell them as a base only if wanted and also offer them with different pivot points to maintain a short throw with a long handle.

 

[747mopar]

Thanks GTX, I was amazed with my phone call to Hurst (that guy didn't know his *** from a hole in the ground). It's really pathetic how very little the people working at these places know about their own product, he answered only one question and that is that the one I wanted was discontinued. I did however learn something................ the directory read off "for Flowmaster call ###, for B&M call ### and for Hurst call ###" so I guess they're all under the same roof now???

- - - Updated - - -

Ordered shifter #1 (Hurst shifter) so we'll see, worst case scenario I'll eat the shipping to send it back.

 

[HYRDGOON]

As far as I know, any of the t-56 shifters that utilize the rear position will work. None of the mid-shift ones will fit. Core shifters has several on eBay, the ones with the billet housings look good. They sell them as a base only if wanted and also offer them with different pivot points to maintain a short throw with a long handle.

Thanks 6 speed your recommendation for Core led me to some useful options.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Hurst-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item541a3f35b6&vxp=mtr

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mcl-82-1001/overview/


Shifter relocation adapter to move to front shift point.

 

[Wookie316]

Brent at Gears to go is the guy to talk to about shifters. He will have the answers you need.

http://www.gearstogo.com/

 

[747mopar]

Brent at Gears to go is the guy to talk to about shifters. He will have the answers you need.

http://www.gearstogo.com/

Thanks, I've yet to find anybody that even has a clue. American Powertrain (Hurst told me to call them) had nothing to add either other than "we have what you need for $310.00" yeah right, it's a standard shifter for crying out loud. I'll check them out.

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Thanks 6 speed your recommendation for Core led me to some useful options.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Hurst-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item541a3f35b6&vxp=mtr

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mcl-82-1001/overview/


Shifter relocation adapter to move to front shift point.

View attachment 239841

That's great that you found that, I suspect somebody might prefer the forward location and now we have the how too.

 

[747mopar]

Brent at Gears to go is the guy to talk to about shifters. He will have the answers you need.

http://www.gearstogo.com/

Very nice guy but still no help, he said he might have sold parts for 3 different Viper T56s over his time of doing this so I officially give up. I'll just wait for the one that supposedly won't fit to show up and measure everything and compare to the original, if it fit's then I'll know they're all a bunch of liars trying to make a buck (not referring to gearstogo, he just didn't know one way or the other).