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Voltage regulator choices

Grabbergreendream

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I'm putting things together with my wiring in my 71' Satellite. It was originally a 318/904 now 440/727. I have several alternators to choose from in my stash & may get a new one even, but not sure which VR I need. It is converted to MP electronic Ignition if that matters. There are lotsa choices so is it as simple as any one will work? Prices are all over the map on this part & all the reading on the subject tells me even the higher priced ones sometimes dont function properly.
Any help here is appreciated.
Thanks.
 
The MP electronic ignition system requires use of a "Solid State VR", not the mechanical type. Depending on what alternator you decide to go with, you need to pick the proper regulator to go with that specific alternator. Not all alternators and regulators are the same. Just make sure the regulator has a good ground connection to the chassis.
 
Hmm - hadn’t thought about the voltage regulator needs to be matched to the alternator - but makes sense. Could explain why my two cars with rebuilt standard amp alternators and electronic regulators seem to run at high voltage levels.
 
The MP electronic ignition system requires use of a "Solid State VR", not the mechanical type. Depending on what alternator you decide to go with, you need to pick the proper regulator to go with that specific alternator. Not all alternators and regulators are the same. Just make sure the regulator has a good ground connection to the chassis.
Regulator is not dependent on ignition. Regulator is dependent on which alternator is used.
 
Regulator is not dependent on ignition. Regulator is dependent on which alternator is used.
It's recommended to use a solid state regulator when converting to electronic ignition. The points style mechanical regulator puts a voltage spike on the system.

That said many people have left the old regulator with no failures of the ECU for the ignition.

The other advantage of the solid state regulator is when used along with a newer style alternator they put out more current at idle.
 
70 and up had the newer solid state regulator with the triangle shaped plug. That is what everyone had to use to convert to electronic ignition back in the day until they started making solid state boards inside the older style square boxes like the VR101 from wells and the Regitar version with the black outside case on it.
 
A 71 came with a "solid state" regulator...
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like this in " solid state" ?
 
Electronic regulator matches with dual isolated field alternator.

Dunno if the variety of alts you got on your stash mixes single and dual field, but that’s the important here.

Then also try to install the best ouput rate alt you get in hands. Smaller pulley helps on get the best iddle output capacity too (very important) from whichever alt you get.
 
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It's recommended to use a solid state regulator when converting to electronic ignition. The points style mechanical regulator puts a voltage spike on the system.

That said many people have left the old regulator with no failures of the ECU for the ignition.

The other advantage of the solid state regulator is when used along with a newer style alternator they put out more current at idle.
To clarify a little, the voltage regulator controls the alternator's field voltage, which in turn, controls the alternator output (both amps and voltage) and is a function of the speed (RPM) of the alternator and its connected load. Maximum amps is a function of stator design and diode capacity and is limited by the stator's impedance or AC resistance. True, the mechanical points type regulator introduces the possibility of transient voltage spikes as the internal points open and close. The solid state regulator use a transistor to regulate the alternator field voltage seamlessly and have a transient supressor network built in. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
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