What to heat the garage with????

Shop, Garage and Tools

  1. Don selleck

    Don selleck FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    a boiler pump was used to move the fluid with a thermos static switch to turn it off and on. both can be had at menards don't know if they have them down there its like home depot. concrete here in Michigan is 4" thick for a standard slab, you grade your dirt 4 " below your final concrete level, so you can slope your grade to the front doors in a barn or to a drain in a basement. don't forget to allow for the thickness of the foam insulation under the tubes. so 1" foam would be 5" below your final level. I know you need to fasten the stuff down pretty good I've heard concrete guys saying it like to float in wet concrete.
     
  2. PP1RT

    PP1RT Well-Known Member

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    Is 2" the standard depth? I will be pouring 5 1/2" floor.
     
  3. 747mopar

    747mopar Well-Known Member

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    Another question, any good options for heating a paint booth? I'm building a 24X24 addition right now that I'll do all of my painting in and want something that won't ignite any fumes. I'd love to use propane but don't know if there's options that are 100% sealed plus it needs to be radiant as to not stir up dust.
     
  4. PP1RT

    PP1RT Well-Known Member

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    Electric baseboard heaters??
     
  5. mopar 3 B

    mopar 3 B Well-Known Member

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    I know all about rebar float. Steel at 490# per cub ft will float in 144# per cub ft concrete if worked enough. That why I asked about the self leveling concrete. Just have to mix, dump and squeegy the piles will self level itself. No finishing required. Just don't try it on a sloped floor is it will level itself on the low end.
     
  6. Don selleck

    Don selleck FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    further away from the surface would be better in my opinion.
    you'll be using a exhaust fan when your painting anyway, heat main area and booth you can draw off heated air from your main area, have a fresh air make up higher in room of main area so dirt wont fly as much, plus your paint booth will have to be filtered too. winter time paint on a large scale is hard to do in cold climates unless you have a huge main area and big output heat source.
     
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    • philcollins

      philcollins FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      4 in of concrete, don't know the type. It was sub-contract, i know its was fiberglass reinforced. No re-bar in it. Yes layout is important for uniform temperature.
       

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    • mopar 3 B

      mopar 3 B Well-Known Member

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      Heat lamps. Why you got dust in a paint booth?
       
    • philcollins

      philcollins FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Just be sure to use an expansion tank, in line.
       
    • mopar 3 B

      mopar 3 B Well-Known Member

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      That layout in French?
       
    • philcollins

      philcollins FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Yes, in short,

      3 lines of approx 220' ea. 1 foot apart, except for the one near the outside wall 6". 3 loops 6" apart near the garage doors.

      I remember the manufacturer of that system said 4 in of concrete. The tubing is hold by the insulation so it won't "float" when the concrete was poured.
       
    • 747mopar

      747mopar Well-Known Member

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      I scrub and scrub and it seams like there's always some dust somewhere. I prefer the only moving air to be the exhaust and a filtered air intake. Unfortunately the exhaust sucks the heat out, I'd like to make some serious heat in there.
       
    • Hemirunner

      Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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      We can tell, lol. You really could have had the best of all worlds with the in floor heat using a propane fired tankless water heater. These systems are so inexpensive, the highest cost is the tubing. It’d be a great system for your paint booth. No air movement.
       
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      • mopar 3 B

        mopar 3 B Well-Known Member

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        You keeping the doors shut and using it for nothing but a paint booth? You may need to build an air lock.
         
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        • Sahara

          Sahara FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          I live in a place where it actually gets REALLY cold. For many months on end. I have a 24x40x12h garage that I heat with a radiant tube heater. It's the way to go.
          My previous garage was smaller and had a boiler with in floor heating pipes. It was not as good.
           
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          • Xp29h

            Xp29h FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            I've got 2 heat pumps in the house. The winters since installing have been very cold. Neither pump has lost anything. Bills and usage didn't climb during those times. They are much more efficient than earlier ones.

            Now, that said, one has to feel careful where they are placed. Inside a garage shouldn't be a problem unless there is water pipes. They can trick your regular heating system and in winter and water pipes can freeze up. (Hot water baseboard type heat). With that in mind for a house be careful but I've been thinking of putting one in my garage!
             
          • moose1

            moose1 Well-Known Member

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            Here's the solution I used - a tube heater. Built my shop in '04 & was going to install a wood stove. Once I realized what it would cost to meet fire code up here, floor space lost, wood cost & storage, etc. this heater was a bargain - $2200. installed, I dug the gas line trench & framed the roof structure to hold it. No pilot light & sealed combustion chamber means it's perfectly safe. I used a "honeywell" household thermostat. Because it's radiant heat, the whole shop maintains the same temperature & it has worked flawlessly ever since.

            IMG_4735.JPG IMG_7329.JPG
             
          • 747mopar

            747mopar Well-Known Member

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            I like the idea of these but everybody I talk to says because they blow threw a tube then exhaust they aren't as effecient as a unit heater. Doesn't mean they'r not great but my primary concern is fuel usage, I'm looking at units that are 93% effecient.
             
          • PP1RT

            PP1RT Well-Known Member

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            I have been doing more reading and think no matter which route i go i am going to put 2" pink styrofoam and poly under the concrete to keep the slab at inside temp and dry. As long as i am doing that might as well run the pex too whether i use it or not right away.
             
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            • bm02tj

              bm02tj Well-Known Member

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              Look at

              If you look at the savings of 10 to 12 % when you are using wood as main heat when you are using shop
              the extra cost and maintenance needs to be looked at
              also secondary heat exchangers are like your rad and do not like dust and dirt
              The standard test for efficiency does not show tube heaters as good but they are
              They had to redo tests for fireplaces but have not for tube heaters
               
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