Whatever happened to front wheel bearing maintenance?

[Dibbons]

I have not hear of any newer car owners ever having mentioned a front wheel bearing packing job. Back in the day, I remember it being a common task. I have done front drum brake bearings, but don't really know what is involved in my '72 SSP with disc brakes. Anyone been doing this? Thank you.

 

[69L48Z27]

I'm not sure I completely follow but it's the same. Inner and outer bearings, races, seals, etc. pack and install the same way.

 

[Dibbons]

Need to remove rotors, calipers, the whole nine yards then?

 

[bm02tj]

most new stuff have bearing assembles and not serviceable
throw away society

 

[69L48Z27]

Yes. If it looks like this.

 

[NJRR]

Sealed bearings. All the new cars.

 

[AMX364]

Somewhere in the 80's most went to some sort of sealed bearing.

 

[khryslerkid]

Buy yourself a Factor Service Manual. It's worth the money and you'll need it for other things that come up periodically.

 

[Kern Dog]

I drug out this topic on purpose.
I have a 12" rotor that had a few defects in the inner bearing race. I decided to replace the race along with the bearing.

The race is below the edge by about 1/4". I wasn't sure of how deep that it was supposed to be so I checked the service manual.

They call the race a CUP and state to drive it flush with the hub.
Strange though....
The old one was in about 1/4", I have 4 other rotors here that look to be set about the same.

The bearing in place....I'm curious about how deep the race is actually supposed to be. The FSM states to be flush, the rotors I have are not the same year as my FSM....The rotors are the 1973 and later style.
I guess I could slip it all together and see if it works, right?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Drive the race in till it is hard against the step/shoulder... If you don't it will find it's way there on it's own, likely destroying the bearings & possibly the spindle and/or rotor at the same time...

 

[YY1]

They usually have a landing to seat on.

 

[Kern Dog]

I thought so but the hard step is another 3/8" or so in further. It seems strange.

 

[Speedbird]

My best guess on the confusing text.
(Assuming you have the proper race/bearing set.)
The FSM is usually a one size fits all on this type of thing.
Covering more than one type of car.

Alternative theory which may be more likely?
"Drive flush" is a first step.
Meaning it's not cocked.
"Seat cups against shoulder" is the final step.

And lastly if all else fails, the FSMs of the era is not know to be a beacon of clarity.

I use a 99 dollar HF press. I got tired of beating things in and out.
Beating on them can't be good.

 

[Dibbons]

Aren't there also two other thick, excellent comprehensive manuals (printed back then) that are just as specific as the FSM? I think one is called "Motors" and I forget the name of the other one.

 

[YY1]

Chilton's is the more well known.

Motor's is far better IMO.

 

[myk r sanchez]

most new stuff have bearing assembles and not serviceable
throw away society

Throw away cars for sure...

 

[khryslerkid]

The FMS picture posted says to use a soft steel block to drive the cup flush. (That's so the cup is started straight) Then you use a soft drift to drive it down further to the shoulder inside the hub.

 

[YY1]

I believe it was the 90's when they went to sealed bearings.

I had one start howling in my '00 Dakota a couple of years ago.

Totally different experience replacing it.

Only one- no inner and outer, bolts on, and no packing.

Weirdest thing was the giant nylock nut instead of a cotter pin.

RH thread on both sides.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The FMS picture posted says to use a soft steel block to drive the cup flush. (That's so the cup is started straight) Then you use a soft drift to drive it down further to the shoulder inside the hub.

WTH is that??? LOL...

These are aluminum & work well..

 

[khryslerkid]

WTH is that??? LOL...

These are aluminum & work well..View attachment 942795

I have those. They probably didn't back in the day. I use a brass drift also.