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Which Oil AFTER Initial Break In?

Been using brad penn and wix in all my stuff for quite a while.
Brad penn has gone up in price as they either sold or changed distribution somehow.
 
Been using brad penn and wix in all my stuff for quite a while.
Brad penn has gone up in price as they either sold or changed distribution somehow.
Bought out by Penn Grade. Same formula as before and same formula as when it was Kendall
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Tappets? You want your lifters tapping on the cam? The tapping is done at the rocker/valve stem. Never understood why lifters are called tappets.
A friend breaks in his SBC stroker race engines with Rotella and then changes to Royal Purple. He used to use Gibbs but repeatedly had problems with incompatibility with alcohol fuel despite Gibbs assuring him the problem had been fixed. I use the Rotella 15-40 in my air cooled flat lifter pushrod mc engine and it works fine.
Oh yeah....another oil thread!
When I was a kid at my dads station, all the cars were 40's to 50's models. The adjustable rocker arms on the old chevies and ford's were referred to as tappets.232 chevy,272 ford,etc. just some trivia.
 
Ahemmm. There are only 2 true PAO synthetics. Amsoil and Mobil 1. ALL others start with crude. Marketing scheming allows them to be called synthetics. They are not. Amsoil has the Zinc and seal-massage additive package that is preferred for my 440.
Hello Dennis, I know this is an old post, but I would like to start using amsoil synthetic in my new 340 engine. How many miles do you recommend putting on it before I do that?
 
I THINK that Napa's are WIX, can't remember where I heard that from.
Correct, but did you know that Walmart SuperTech filters are also made by Wix?
And when cut open they are identical. Pretty good filter for $2.84
 
Hello Dennis, I know this is an old post, but I would like to start using amsoil synthetic in my new 340 engine. How many miles do you recommend putting on it before I do that?
3000 miles recommended or 25 hours is the consensus.
 
Way back when I last rebuilt my 440, there was no 'break-in oil', just used the cam additive & made sure rpm's were above 2000 for 15-20min. and never a problem; course that was then!
 
Correct, but did you know that Walmart SuperTech filters are also made by Wix?
And when cut open they are identical. Pretty good filter for $2.84
What micron is that filter most filters dont get low micron which is very important to have. I use a Donaldson filter pulls 20micron of course it cost more but its worth it when oil samples come back and silicone levels are at .1 percent or less and all metals very low. Watching the samples gives me a balance of what is in the oil so i compare the additive package .
 
What micron is that filter most filters dont get low micron which is very important to have. I use a Donaldson filter pulls 20micron of course it cost more but its worth it when oil samples come back and silicone levels are at .1 percent or less and all metals very low. Watching the samples gives me a balance of what is in the oil so i compare the additive package .

I'm a big fan of the Donaldson P169071. Donaldson says 99% efficient at 22 microns.

Another good filter on the market is the Fram Ultra. Their XG8A is 99% efficient at 20 microns. Wire backed synthetic media and steel end caps. Fram really up'd their game with the Ultra line.

Reportedly, WIX/NAPA Gold oil filters are 95% efficient at 20 microns.
 
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Yep over last few years filter boys have made a move to help make the oil last longer and stay cleaner longer. I'm waiting for the day for just filter change and add a quart of oil for what was lost in the filter. I know of some commercial shop with their fleet doing this and watching oil samples after 50k they drop oil. They run Allison auto also don't change trans oil for100k. Trans oil is transynd
 
Nice ride it looks great
 
Way back when I last rebuilt my 440, there was no 'break-in oil', just used the cam additive & made sure rpm's were above 2000 for 15-20min. and never a problem; course that was then!

Like a guy that wears a belt and suspenders, I prefer assembly lube and break in oil.

I had an engine builder suggest that I mix one quart of break in oil with every oil change (7 quarts) in my race car. I suppose it was because of the additional zinc. So I do.

Here's my question for everybody -
Oil with zinc is always mentioned in conjunction with lifters and I completely understand that. But, if zinc has such properties as additional coating or adherence to metal it should be equally good for all moving parts but that never seems to be mentioned. Why not?
 
I think it is the cam/lifter relationship that required the Zinc more than any other parts and that is because the flat tappet lifter riding on the cam lobe is probably the most critical lubrication point in the engine. By that I mean it takes the hardest beating so to speak, has the most pressure between the two surfaces without having oil trapped in like a bearing. And of coarse with new motors all being roller lifter, the Zinc is no longer "as critical".
 
Looking for to ceramic roller lifters now that will help everything from wear to heat.
 
Just Broke In My 432 Stroker / 440 Source Kit - 30 Minutes Break In

Used Comp Cams 10w30W Break In Oil - Primed The Oil Pump First And Rotated The Crank For Oil At The Rocker Arms

Had One Of My A@P Mechanics At Work Cut Open The Wix Filter , Poured The Leftover Oil From The Filter Through A Coffee Filter , And Cut Out The Media And Stretched It Out - He Said It Looked Beyond Perfection

Very Happy

Now Just Need WI Warm Weather - Bee Running Valvoline VR1 Silver Bottle Oil Also
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Been using brad penn and wix in all my stuff for quite a while.
Brad penn has gone up in price as they either sold or changed distribution somehow.

Found out that Brad Penn is what used to be Kendall. I hope their management is more concerned with their customers than Kendall's was. Kendall was more concerned with hearing nothing but good news from their sales people and management patting themselves on the back for the great job they were doing, despite knowledge to the contrary.

That little blurb about Kendall came from one of their regional sales people...
 
I never dealt with Kendall "management", just the distributor, but IMHO it was the best oil I used back in the day.
 
Kendell is a good oil to really figure out what oil you want to use is to look at the additive package. I have always used amsoil have never had a bad deal with any of the product. Kendell Castrol and a couple other are great. If you have a oil sample place you can use that can be a big help take a sample the new oil you are going to put in the engine then run your mileage take a sample of that then match up the two samples and find out what the engine is doing. After awhile you will be able to see if wear parts ate breaking down and see if the oil is holding up to your standards you can do this with the trans and rear diff also. Costs are like 10 bucks a sample but well worth it.
 
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