who pays 10k for a paint job

[Bb70charger500]

I had two cars quoted recently ! All metal work done , just prep wOrk like you need in any paint job ! $10000 for one and $12500 for the other ! Basically same car one a 72 charger one a 74 se charger the difference was orange , and plum purple!

So keep in mind your color too it matters!!!! Diff colors cost more and if they say any color same price I'd probably go somewhere else

 

[wannadrag]

Learn to do it yourself,i did.

 

[whayden2003]

going labor rate is $100/hr...so 700 hrs youre at 70k

Yea. I don't know. I'm going to try and forget I typed all that.

 

[1967coronet440]

I paid $2500 from Maaco for a 20/20 paint job. Came out pretty good. They fixed some dents and dings and sprayed the car. All I could afford, going back I would’ve liked to do it myself but didn’t have the space then.

 

[91r/t]

What type of paint job are we talking about first????

I have been in paint prison many times and painted cars myself.....10k is cheap these days from a average shop with poor conditions.....the higher end shops you can triple that amount and higher.....

These are key reasons why the hobby is dwindling down.....

Even doing it yourself and buying tools, materials and paint is expensive.....not a lot of people can do that....

I agree with this ^^^. When I stripped my Duster and completely redid the bodywork/paint, I was into materials alone for roughly $4,000. That was just an estimate without dissecting tape/paper costs and small **** like that. That was also a super solid Arizona car. You get into any rust or "hidden stories" once you're in there(like you almost always do), and time and materials goes even higher.

 

[Mike67]

FIN has $23k in P&B on the Nova all new metal, Gale has about $25k in the Tbird....
Me ....so far about $17.38...really about $5-700...thats out my league!

 

[cr8crshr]

I paid $2500 from Maaco for a 20/20 paint job. Came out pretty good. They fixed some dents and dings and sprayed the car. All I could afford, going back I would’ve liked to do it myself but didn’t have the space then.

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I totally agree here. I spent the exact same amount on my '66 Plymouth Satellite. I had all the body work done by a shop and then the metal primer applied. The owner showed me how to block sand, fill and sand some more, etch it, prime it, block sand some more. I repeated it until I thought it was more than acceptable to my judgement. Towed it over to MACCO and had them mix up the original color of the car and shoot it. They baked it and then I brought it home and started re-assembly. The paint was never touched by me for almost 4 years while putting it back together. There are some flaws and it shows the usage, but it looks great and besides I don't want to have a trailer Queen but a driver. That being said, most of ya'll that think nothing of 100.00/hour labor and all then the cost of the paint are way too out there. You do not need to have all that expense IMHFO just to have a pristine paint job. Hell...It's just paint isn't it??? If you cannot enjoy your ride without being overly nit picky about your paint then I feel for ya. Pics to show ya too...cr8crshr/Tuck

 

[kiwigtx]

I spent more than $10K on materials. Probably well over $25K all up including me doing a lot of the donkey work alongside the Painter....and that's with my Painter treating the job as a labour of love at times. More to a paint job than just squirting some paint on the body.
And mine was done 20 years ago.

Most Panel & Paint shops around these parts won't touch classic or restoration work. Specialist shops have opened up just for that work.

 

[slimt]

Most shops wont even tackle these jobs reason is 10 cars via insurance work can bring 10 grand in 4 days as to one 10k job over a 4 month time frame. And it tyes up a 100.00. Dollar a hour stall for a long period of time.

I myself stopped doing high end paint work along time ago .The headaches verses reward was to much. Expectations are way to high on the customers part for whats involved .I work on my own and do my own Im the one that is satisfied with my results. Around here . 5000.00 in materials is the start. Labour is actual time spent .The more you want. The more you pay.
So that said 10k is cheap.

 

[slimt]

I spent more than $10K on materials. Probably well over $25K all up including me doing a lot of the donkey work alongside the Painter....and that's with my Painter treating the job as a labour of love at times. More to a paint job than just squirting some paint on the body.
And mine was done 20 years ago.

Most Panel & Paint shops around these parts won't touch classic or restoration work. Specialist shops have opened up just for that work.

True . But .. What you see on top is one thing .What they hide underneath is another . Not in all cases. But most cases.

 

[idrivemopar]

All said with me I was in for about 15K for body work and paint, and that's not counting the 5k I lost from the jackass that did the body work then screwed me on paint, so I had to have it sanded down by another shop and painted properly, 5 coats color and 3 clear, so I guess you could say I paid 10k for a paint job, however, its freaking nice now!

 

[YY1]

I've been shopping this past year and getting real quotes.

I ask exactly the same thing to each-

I have one gallon of single stage Nason full-cryll II and reducer/hardener, plus an extra quart that is already color matched to the engine bay, which I painted myself.

I need several spots on the body sanded to bare metal.
I need 7 quarter size parking lot dings filled
I need both corners of the rear windshield addressed ( barley catches thumbnail but I want to make sure it gets done)
I have a small scrape (less than 3/16" deep and 3/8" long) above the rear wheel well.
There is about 1/4 cup of filler in each quarter to rocker seam.
This does NOT need to come out and is in VERY good and solid condition.
I need the trunk gutters painted but I want to keep the trunk floor and inner quarters original as they are in good shape.
I need the outer body and jambs painted but not under the hood.
I have the windshield and side molding removed and will remove the mirrors, markers, locks and can remove the bumpers.
There is no drip rail, belt, or wheel well trim.


Shop 1- would not use my paint, quoted 4500 base/clear, or 4250 without clear coat and kept trying to steer me into base/clear even though I told them first thing out of my mouth I want single stage.

Shop 2- $5000 including removal and re-installation of front and rear windshields (!)

Shop 3- procedure was to chemically strip car (!) and re-evaluate before final estimate, but would be $2600 to paint without any body work.

Shop 4- would not use my paint, $6500.

I found a guy four towns over that will do it for $2600 but it won't be baked.

 

[YY1]

@cr8crshr

How did Maaco do on prep and masking?

 

[mmissile]

The car had sat painted, for 13 years. I had the antennae hole welded-up, valances repaired/straightened, one dent, a few dings and scratches, and door-jambs stripped and re-painted, before a new paint-job. It went from this......

to this....... 14K

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I last painted my heap in 2002.I'm in the tow biz so one of the shops I towed for sprayed it on the cheap,cost of materials.I supplied the PINT can of flip flop paint for the small side stripe.That pint cost $300 in '02
They jammed and fit the glass hood,trunk & bumpers

 

[mmissile]

All the body-work, dip-stripped unibody and panels, acid-dipping of front-clip, stretched wheel-lips, then all the regular body-work and panels attached... and paint[House of Kolor]. It came to about 40K....a dozen+ years ago. I have to admit, it's held-up near perfectly.

 

[Don selleck]

i got a little more than that, and alot of time but

turned out pretty good

 

[Don selleck]

gotta love that silver missle!!

 

[biomedtechguy]

I had a local custom shop install and paint my AMD N96 hood on my 70 Roadrunner. The yellow is a perfect match, the black stripes are the semi-gloss I wanted, and he did it within the time span I needed. A .25 (quarter size coin) area of the black stripe by the cowl lifted when he pulled the tape. He's going to fix that by sending and respraying the black, which I'm glad he doesn't have to touch the yellow because it came out so good. He had a problem with the component that causes the semi gloss finish, it showed up in other jobs he did, the chemical was bad.
Otherwise the hood paint is flawless. It was around $750.
I asked him how much a total strip, bodywork, and paint job would be knowing there is some filler on the body because I have 2 cracks in the yellow (they look like a strand of black hair in the yellow paint). He said around $10k and the only kind of finish he does is show #1 quality.
Given the appearance of my car is good enough to still win me "Top 25" type trophies, and because it will never be a trailer queen "Best of Show" car, I'm going to let him fix the hood boo-boo at no cost to me, and use that 10k on a stroker motor.

 

[FrnkNsteen]

I think it all depends on what you're doing. If it's a driver and the body is reasonably clean and rust free, scuff it and paint it. If that's all the car needs,... more power to you. If you have any major repair or metal work to do, then you almost have to go through the whole body. Why would you ever do the repairs and have the body be perfect in the repair area, then half-azz the rest of the body and spray a fresh coat of paint on it?

I'm not even going to say what I've got into body work and paint on my Charger. Way more than expected, and more than anyone is estimating on here. I've held on to the car for 30 years, and decided this one is getting the complete rebuild. But I've also got a '67 Barracuda that is a driver quality car. Is the paint perfect on it,.... nope. Do I care?..... Nope. It looks good, drives good, and doesn't warrant dumping a bunch of money into it.

For me,.... my Charger started as the mess below. Needed major panel repair and replacement and had multiple hidden rust spots that needed to be addressed so they didn't pop back through the paint in a few years. If you are going to go through all the money and work to properly fix all the metal work, you sure as hell aren't going to try to skimp and save on the prep and paint work. I've seen too many people not fix the rust, then wonder why they are seeing bubbling forming a year after repainting. Complete waste of money in my opinion!!

What I started with after tear down, and where it is now (Just painted Thursday and Friday):