Yankee Express RestoMod Project

[Ghostrider 67]

Found this while looking for something else...now I know that the on-off-on toggles I already have will operate these motors... This was how I originally envisioned doing this job. Nice to see I'm not the only smart guy around...

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Although he could stand to lock down that motor somehow....

 

[Don Frelier]

A couple things to consider:
1. The maintained switch is a bit risky, you don't want to energize the motor continuously after it hits the stop.
- A normally closed switch at the end of travel would help solve the problem or perhaps a latching circuit set by a momentary push-button would be a good idea it closes a relay until the end of travel switch is hit.
2. The doors can't rotate freely when the motor is deactivated otherwise they will move from the full open or full closed position.
- at one point I gutted the motor drive gear portion and rotated the bucket by hand but I had this problem
Just some suggestions.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Right. I will be using limit switches and relays to tell the motors to cut out once the buckets stop.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Not an electric guy, but wonder if reducing voltage to say to 9V would make them not slam to a stop.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

That's on my list of things to check when I power them up...

Not an electric guy, but wonder if reducing voltage to say to 9V would make them not slam to a stop.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Rheostat? Maybe?

 

[G.V.Charger]

Great work, Ghost, love the head light motors!!!!

Interested in how fast, they work, original assemblies are slow, and often out of time with each other.

 

[barbee6043]

Got curious last night about whether I could build a Hemi hood scoop out of steel. So I cut up a hunk of 20GA and gave it a shot, just to see what pitfalls there were and get an idea of the feasibility of it. Here's the result....

View attachment 875268
I think it's doable. I'll need to go the my steel supply and convince them to allow me to use their 8ft brake. I also need to devise a way to get the rise down the center line, Maybe slice a "V" into the wood table top and carve a block out as the positive and tap on it to sink the center line into the "V"? If I only had a bead roller! Anyway, the fun parts will be the roll over at the nose across the front, the curved legs at the front corners down next to the hood surface and the rear vertical portion that faces the driver. I worked out a way to get the bolt down flanges to work by cutting slider slots in the flange and having a piece of aluminum with the bolts through it in a strip about 3/4" wide that can slide sideways with the bolt shanks sliding into the side of the slots and then slide the strip and the bolts backward into the slots, and tighten them down. So, I think I'll take a shot at it!! Also I think i'll tack thin rods onto the underside in three places going from left to right to keep it from flexing/sinking. With the first rod far enough behind the front lip to not be seen.

Another member referred me to your spot here. I have decided to tackle this same project!! You would think here in SE Tx 20 ga sheet steel would be easy to find!! ha Keep us posted on your work please!!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Another member referred me to your spot here. I have decided to tackle this same project!! You would think here in SE Tx 20 ga sheet steel would be easy to find!! ha Keep us posted on your work please!!

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/yankee-express-restomod-project.82520/page-46
Posted wrong thing. This is what I wanted to post.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/?gclid=CPq638S7iMUCFYOTfgodHx8A6A

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Another member referred me to your spot here. I have decided to tackle this same project!! You would think here in SE Tx 20 ga sheet steel would be easy to find!! ha Keep us posted on your work please!!

I found mine at a local metal shop that deals primarily in metal roofing supply and gutters. They build the pieces for the jobs like the fascia and mull boards, valley drain ends etc...they build these out of 20GA exclusively as I imagine other companies do as well.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Great work, Ghost, love the head light motors!!!!

Interested in how fast, they work, original assemblies are slow, and often out of time with each other.

My understanding is that if they both are energized with the same switch/relay they should both move instantly and stay in time. The way they would get out of time is if the stops are adjusted differently and the left bucket stops before the right one. If they both "Travel" exactly the same distance I would expect them to stay in alignment. I have disassembled the lights and grill and motors and put them aside for now. So I did not put power to them. As stated though, there are a couple of ways to slow them down if they are indeed too quickly opening. At a rated RPM of 50 while not under load that turns the buckets one full revolution every second or so. The buckets with lights installed are about 26-28 lbs each. So there is a load there. Which would work to lessen the 50 RPM. So, if you twirl your index finger in the air in a foot wide circle while saying "One, one thousand" & "two, one thousand" you can get a pretty close idea of how fast a HALF revolution would be. Fairly stiff. I expect that I will have to slow them down a little, perhaps by 1/3rd or so. Placing a rubber cover over the stops will lessen the "Slamming" part as well.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/yankee-express-restomod-project.82520/page-46
Posted wrong thing. This is what I wanted to post.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/?gclid=CPq638S7iMUCFYOTfgodHx8A6A

So around 38 bucks. for a 3'x4' sheet.

MATERIAL
Cold Roll


SHAPE
Sheet/Plate


ALLOY
A366/1008


Production Method
Cold Roll


specs
ASTM


Measurement Scale
inch



0.0359" Mild Steel Sheet A366/1008 Cold Roll -
Part #: 12780
0.0359" Mild Steel Sheet A366/1008 Cold Roll -
Part #: 12780
Click for more details


Compare
Sign in required
Dimensions

• Thickness: 0.0359"
• Gauge: 20 Ga.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

My local place charged me $20 bucks for a 18"x 71" piece with three bends in it.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Sorry to stick that in your thread. It was directed to barbee6043, in Texas it might be a long ride to buy metal.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Sorry to stick that in your thread. It was directed to barbee6043, in Texas it might be a long ride to buy metal.

No worries. it's all good. Yeah, I found this company a month or so ago only 6 miles from me, I have been driving 30 miles one way to buy metal for years. lol.

 

[Fran Blacker]

No worries. it's all good. Yeah, I found this company a month or so ago only 6 miles from me, I have been driving 30 miles one way to buy metal for years. lol.

There was a scrap metal dealer which sold picked sheet, angle iron and aluminum . Shut down that part of business, 9 miles away.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

There was a scrap metal dealer which sold picked sheet, angle iron and aluminum . Shut down that part of business, 9 miles away.

That sucks. This place is around the back of a local lumber supply store, around a corner. never knew it was there. They aren't really a retail steel supply. They supply roofing companies who do metal roofing. Nice folks. Cheap.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

I'm working on the Express every day, 6 days a week. I have been working on door cards/panels. I changed the design away from the spray foam sculpture crap. I redid the Audi Pull handle/speaker/power door lock unit mounting. Also incorporated the wood grain insert to the same panel. Now the unit is screwed down to the door shell from underneath. The grain insert is captured underneath with "c" clips.... The door card has had the armrest/window switch pad moved forward 5" so I could insert a bolt through the base, from inside the switch cavity, that attaches the handle/ armrest to the door frame. I cut a 20ga plate to go under the armrest for strength. I fashioned a "landing pad piece" for the upper narrow end of the handle by carving a piece of wood to fit the contours of the end of the handle, then wrapped tape around that and applied Bondo to shape the surface. It's attached from the underside through the card. Basically I set everything up so I can snap the card into place when it's all upholstered and insert the bolt and snap the window switch unit into the armrest and it's done. Plus the 6" speaker. Now that I have welded back in the door panel bits that I cut out trying to place the CD player and reworked the positioning I will buy a new card and transfer all the new holes to that and then i'm done till I cover it all. The wiring is all worked out for the power locks, power windows, door speaker, curtesy light in the small chrome pull latch cup, rear facing red lensed marker light, down facing white lensed puddle light and the big speaker.

 

[barbee6043]

So around 38 bucks. for a 3'x4' sheet.

MATERIAL
Cold Roll


SHAPE
Sheet/Plate


ALLOY
A366/1008


Production Method
Cold Roll


specs
ASTM


Measurement Scale
inch



0.0359" Mild Steel Sheet A366/1008 Cold Roll -
Part #: 12780
0.0359" Mild Steel Sheet A366/1008 Cold Roll -
Part #: 12780
Click for more details


Compare
Sign in required
Dimensions

• Thickness: 0.0359"
• Gauge: 20 Ga.

View attachment 880514 View attachment 880515 View attachment 880516

That's for all the info. I live about 1 hr North of Houston and HATE ever going near there I found a steel supplier there. 4 x 8 20 ga cold rolled, sheet like mentioned, $40. Still looking for a supplier out here in the sticks!!! I can get it thru the HS vo ag guys but they will not get in another order for a month or 2.