Fuel Filter gone?

[robw13]

I've looked high n low on my charger and cannot find a fuel filter anywhere?. Where's it suppose to be on a 5.9 360? 2 lines from the pump, 1 to the front of the car and the other to the tank.

 

[Montclaire]

Sounds like you don't have one. Worst case, you add one and have two.

 

[krowbar]

Look in the fuel line inlet to carb. Sometimes they put small paper ones in there. Sometimes they are brass.

 

[robw13]

Nope, guess there's not one. How much gas needs to be in the tank before cranking? Its got bout 3-3.5 gallons now

 

[Montclaire]

On something that old I never let it get below 1/2 tank. Who knows what kind of shape your sender is in.

 

[robw13]

If the sender is shot, would it prevent fuel to the pump?

 

[daytona71]

Robw13
If the screen on the fuel pickup at the end of the sending unit is plugged, from breakdown of old fuel or dirt, the pump may not be able to draw fuel through the screen.

 

[robw13]

Ok, just tryin to narrow down my starting issue. It cranks fine on a charged battery but didnt see any fuel come out of the line at the carb or fresh fuel on the inlet side if the pump.

 

[b_body_hopeful]

With only 3 1/2 gallons of gas in the tank, I would next drain the tank, take out the sender/pickup, make sure that is clear. If a mechanical fuel pump, I would disconnect the lines to the tank and to the carb from it and while the gas line is disconnected on both ends, use air and blow out the line. See if you have blockage in the line somewhere. Also, make sure air/gas can flow through the sender/pickup unit. If good, put the sender/pickup back in the tank, connect the line going to the fuel pump and try to suck gas from the tank however you want to do it. If gas comes out there, then it might be the pump. keep going with the guessing until fuel gets to the outlet of the pump. I agree with Montclair, add a filter between the pump and the carb. Now you know you have one. Pain staking process but it needs to be done and I would take the time and clean, replace, repair whatever to get gas to the carb. Just my one cent worth. BTW just might find the filter, or not....:headbang:

 

[robw13]

Any tipsr or tricks for getting the tank off?

 

[67 coronet]

spray the threads of the mounting bolts with penitrating oil of some kind.i use pb blaster.what year is your charger?

 

[robw13]

What bout the fuel lines on top?

 

[daytona71]

Rob
If the tank is the same as on my 73SE,are you meaning the 4 small lines at the top/front of the tank? If you are going to remove the tank from the car, then they need to be disconnected. Any idea if the tank was left with fuel inside for any extended length of time? It could be full of a varnish like substance that is formed from old fuel. I would disconnect the fuel line at the sending unit and pull the unit out to inspect the pickup. If careful, the locking ring can be turned without the use of a special tool. If the tank is contaminated, you can usually get them cleaned.

 

[Montclaire]

3.5 gallons of gas is heavy. Imagine bench pressing 30 lbs of liquid, meaning when that tank tips it will move and can easily catch you off guard. If you can't pump out what's left use a floor jack so you can safely lower it. Snip the vent lines they probably need to be replaced anyway, and if you're pulling all that e-crap just plug and cap them. Did you prime the carb to see if you get any flow? Pour a little fresh fuel into a cup that won't react badly to gasoline and add just a small shot to the carb. Kick the motor over and see if it catches. If it does then you KNOW you have a fuel flow issue. It will die right out without flow from the tank. But if it just needs to be reprimed then a couple shots from the cup and it should start pumping.

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And you should put the air filter housing back on each time to limit the chance of a fireball.

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If you overdo the fuel shot and flood it keep the pedal to the floor and crank until it clears.

 

[sleepar]

I siphoned out my tank from the line to the fuel pump and my 67 coronet never had a fuel filter from factory or a tank vent. A locking cap builds up huge vaccume so I switch between my original when I'm driving or in storage...

 

[Dako]

1st, do as the others have said, put a filter in line. Pretty sure it was just before the fuel pump (along the frame rail) on your year car. Then follow the steps below to see if she runs.

Step 1: Spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid down the carb, then crank it. If it won't even 'try' to start, you have other things to check on with the motor (functioning carb, distributor, ignition relay, ballast resistor, etc.). If it tries to run, move to step 2.

Step 2: Run a fuel line from a gas can to the fuel pump. Again, spray the carb and try and start the car. If you can get it to run, but only while spraying, the fuel pump likely has a bad diaphragm...the pump would need replaced. If the car does run off the gas can, the fuel pump is good.

Step 3: If it runs from the gas can, hook the fuel line from the tank back up and try it again. 3 gallons in the tank is plenty to get her started...provided nothing is plugged as mentioned in earlier posts. If it runs off the cars tank, you are in business.

My car had sat for years. We cleaned the old points (yours should be electronic ignition...no points), sprayed the carb and she fired right up. Ran a hose from a gas can to the fuel pump and she would run as long as we sprayed the carb. Swapped out the fuel pump and she would run...off a gas can. Hooked the line back to the tank...nothing. Dropped the tank & removed the pickup/ sending unit. It was full of gunk and the inside of the tank looked like a cavern (stalagmites everywhere) Tried to put air through the hard line and hardly anything came out the other end. Replaced tank, pickup and hard line and all is well ever since. I personally don't believe you can get the tank and hard line good and clean for less than what re-pop parts cost. I once replaced a Duster 340 tank with a used one (years before re-pops). I would periodically have problems with that car after that.

Depending on how long the car has been sitting, you should consider replacing the tank, the fuel pick-up/ sending unit, and the hard line from the tank to the fuel pump. Or, you can chance it, but you may continue to experience issues over time.

Good luck!

 

[sleepar]

1st, do as the others have said, put a filter in line. Pretty sure it was just before the fuel pump (along the frame rail) on your year car. Then follow the steps below to see if she runs.

Step 1: Spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid down the carb, then crank it. If it won't even 'try' to start, you have other things to check on with the motor (functioning carb, distributor, ignition relay, ballast resistor, etc.). If it tries to run, move to step 2.

Step 2: Run a fuel line from a gas can to the fuel pump. Again, spray the carb and try and start the car. If you can get it to run, but only while spraying, the fuel pump likely has a bad diaphragm...the pump would need replaced. If the car does run off the gas can, the fuel pump is good.

Step 3: If it runs from the gas can, hook the fuel line from the tank back up and try it again. 3 gallons in the tank is plenty to get her started...provided nothing is plugged as mentioned in earlier posts. If it runs off the cars tank, you are in business.

My car had sat for years. We cleaned the old points (yours should be electronic ignition...no points), sprayed the carb and she fired right up. Ran a hose from a gas can to the fuel pump and she would run as long as we sprayed the carb. Swapped out the fuel pump and she would run...off a gas can. Hooked the line back to the tank...nothing. Dropped the tank & removed the pickup/ sending unit. It was full of gunk and the inside of the tank looked like a cavern (stalagmites everywhere) Tried to put air through the hard line and hardly anything came out the other end. Replaced tank, pickup and hard line and all is well ever since. I personally don't believe you can get the tank and hard line good and clean for less than what re-pop parts cost. I once replaced a Duster 340 tank with a used one (years before re-pops). I would periodically have problems with that car after that.

Depending on how long the car has been sitting, you should consider replacing the tank, the fuel pick-up/ sending unit, and the hard line from the tank to the fuel pump. Or, you can chance it, but you may continue to experience issues over time.

Good luck!

I put a line on the steel line that feeds the fuel pump ant to a siphoning rig to a can below the car tank... cranking and wiping out the motor with starting fluid is dangerous and if you're timeing isn't right retarted.
I like running off the jug... tells you you're tank and lines a full of junk... why not clean the system first before hooking it back up... just in case it's clean? ASSUME THE TANK AND SENDER THE FILLER GROMMET AND LINES ARE JUNK. THE RADIDOR SHOP CLEANS THE TANK AFTER YOU RINCE IT OUT THE FUEL LINES ARE CHEAP... more engines and eyebrows are damaged with spraying starting fluid than most may admit

 

[sleepar]

Procedures for old cars, bikes or anything that's not new from the dealer.
#1 don't try to start it.
#2 pull plugs. the best way to tell the previous running condition
#3 compression test if engine won't turn pull heads.
#4 drain fuel from the lines before the pump neer motor into a clear clean bottle for inspection if good find someone with a F250 and your fast friends. Gas is a pain to get rid of old and nasty... but filtered is great parts washer.. it will turn to a diesel smelling brown gunk or mustard color powder.
#5 flush all fluids and bearing grease... if you bought an old house would you clean the bathroom or take you're first bath in tub with a blind fold on?
#6check all gaskets. first pressure wash everything that's under hood and let it dry a day
#7 inspect all rubber lines or replace
#8 don't start out hoping it's all perfectly good. Be careful and through useing a book as reference. And do the 50,000 mile service step by step with a known to you good running carb and ignition system.
Basically spend a few weekends cleaning and sorting out problems then start it and go through the functions. After going over everything eventually everything is fixed... limping something along will only cost big later with machine shops and burnt electrical... if anything starts to smell or act funny stop and tow it home. That last mile home will cost $1000's and months versus $100 and an hour or 2.

 

[robw13]

If I were to replace the fuel line from tank to pump, anyone know the size of it?

 

[67 coronet]

If I were to replace the fuel line from tank to pump, anyone know the size of it?

use 5/16.