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605" Street Hemi Build.

The Gen two Hemi was designed for brute power and had all kinds of issues with fuel and detonation. My latest motor will be broken in with a blend of race gas. I run a 9.75:1 compression and still know it will be marginal.. These motorsd where here for one reason only to produce brute Power. No Wedge or Poly or Gen 3 can come close.
Interesting. I run 12:1 cruising on 93 octane pump gas and I spray on 110.
 
Rev Ronnie
I don't know if you have ever considered it ?
But I have experienced great success with sub 1,000 hp Street HEMI's using the Cloyes Hex-a-just Tming Set #9-3125A ?
* Torrington Bearing already Machined & supplied
* Infinitely variable for Camshaft Degree'ing

Above 1,000 hp I always default to a Jesel Belt System, but below 1,000 hp Street / Pump Gas stuff the Cloyes 9-3125A works well for me.

I have LOTS of 572 CID/900+ Hp Pump Gas(91 Octane) Street HEMI packages running around with the Cloyes, no problems over the years... so I will testify
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3125a
 
Rev Ronnie
I don't know if you have ever considered it ?
But I have experienced great success with sub 1,000 hp Street HEMI's using the Cloyes Hex-a-just Tming Set #9-3125A ?
* Torrington Bearing already Machined & supplied
* Infinitely variable for Camshaft Degree'ing

Above 1,000 hp I always default to a Jesel Belt System, but below 1,000 hp Street / Pump Gas stuff the Cloyes 9-3125A works well for me.

I have LOTS of 572 CID/900+ Hp Pump Gas(91 Octane) Street HEMI packages running around with the Cloyes, no problems over the years... so I will testify
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3125a


I used one once on a BBC and it cracked the adjuster and pulled loose (Pulled a few engines down that had problems with them too over the years) I. Never moved it with any spring tension and loctited the bolts. I just don't like those things. There was a big thread on Speedtalk about them too. It seems guys either love or hate them.
It's good to know that they are working for you though. Like I said, some guys love them. I don't mind machining the ones I use. It gives me latitude to adjust the bearing depth to correct any gear misalignment too.

I like belt drives for race engines, but Jesel recommends replacing the belt every year. Most street guys don't want to do that.

In a perfect world, they would all get one of these :)

http://www.donovanengineering.com/GearDrives/BigBlockGearDrive.html#anchor
 
I used one once on a BBC and it cracked the adjuster and pulled loose (Pulled a few engines down that had problems with them too over the years) I. Never moved it with any spring tension and loctited the bolts. I just don't like those things. There was a big thread on Speedtalk about them too. It seems guys either love or hate them.
It's good to know that they are working for you though. Like I said, some guys love them. I don't mind machining the ones I use. It gives me latitude to adjust the bearing depth to correct any gear misalignment too.

I like belt drives for race engines, but Jesel recommends replacing the belt every year. Most street guys don't want to do that.

In a perfect world, they would all get one of these :)

http://www.donovanengineering.com/GearDrives/BigBlockGearDrive.html#anchor

OK, I guess I will stay in the LUV them camp, sorry 'bout that, I wasn't trying to give you a bum steer or anything, I have just never
had/seen a problem with the Hex-a-just ? and I don't frequent Speedtalk so I would not know ?

But speaking of "problems"
.... with the Stage V Heads.... for "Street" useage, we just could NOT get the Exhaust guides to live very long in the Street/Brackets environment with the "Modified" Exhaust Angle Head ?
Tried THAT lots !
It makes more power but the guides are short term so RACE only for us !

That is why we stick with the Std Exhaust Angle Head Version in our Street/Pump Gas HEMI Packages under 1,000 hp for Longevity.
572 Cubic Inch
KB Water Block
Stage V "Standard" Exhaust Angle(Sheet says INDY but it is Stage V)
INDY Intake
.640"/.617" Roller

This one is fairly typical for us
912 hp and 766 Ft/Lbs on 92 Octane
 

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OK, I guess I will stay in the LUV them camp, sorry 'bout that, I wasn't trying to give you a bum steer or anything, I have just never
had/seen a problem with the Hex-a-just ? and I don't frequent Speedtalk so I would not know ?

But speaking of "problems"
.... with the Stage V Heads.... for "Street" useage, we just could NOT get the Exhaust guides to live very long in the Street/Brackets environment with the "Modified" Exhaust Angle Head ?
Tried THAT lots !
It makes more power but the guides are short term so RACE only for us !

That is why we stick with the Std Exhaust Angle Head Version in our Street/Pump Gas HEMI Packages under 1,000 hp for Longevity.
572 Cubic Inch
KB Water Block
Stage V "Standard" Exhaust Angle(Sheet says INDY but it is Stage V)
INDY Intake
.640"/.617" Roller

This one is fairly typical for us
912 hp and 766 Ft/Lbs on 92 Octane

That's a real nice combo. I used the standard ext. location head on this build too. Decided against the raised location after starting this thread. We just raised the port roof .100".

You have a great fuel curve on that engine. What kind of carb did you run?
.
 
Just finishing up

Getting the last of the assembly done. Had to make some intake rail spacers that bolt down to the end rails. The gap was just too big to fill with sealer. I machined some grooves in them to retain sealer as well. The gap is like .025". I cut the end rails on the intake to get the clearance right on. The pushrod clearancing was time consuming as all heck too. I used custom Manton 5 series, 7/16X .125" wall pushrods and their 3/8" adjusters.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Finished the plug wire fitting and the rest of the bolt ons. Got all the port work done on the intake too.
Had to wheel it past the Charger on the way out back. I may need to put my Hemi in there. image.jpg[/ATTACH]View attachment 178294image.jpg

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The external oil pickup system worked out well too. I used a Moroso weld up kit. It was a little tricky because the pan is at an angle. I used a Moroso inline screen filter too, just for a little insurance. It primed up real nice and held 75# with a hand drill.


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Just curious, but why a dual plane, single four intake on such a big cube hemi?
 
rev.ronnie, really enjoy the information you are posting on your Hemi build. Was wondering what is your opinion of a full cover gear drive timing set up like Milidon....(other then they are expensive)?

* I missed the link above for the Donovan set up but would still like to get your take on them.
 
Just curious, but why a dual plane, single four intake on such a big cube hemi?

The dual plane was simply for hood clearance. He did not want to go with multiple carbs either. Believe me, I tried. The Stage V dual 4 would have been tha balls.
The customer want to run any kind of hood scoop and it's getting a turbo 400 with a gear vendors overdrive and a BTE North Star converter. The stall is less than 3K..
It's a unique set of requirements as this thing has to be able to cruise at 2700 rpm on the freeway. We'll see how it all shakes down. It's going to be interesting. I did cut the plenum and rework the thing some.

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rev.ronnie, really enjoy the information you are posting on your Hemi build. Was wondering what is your opinion of a full cover gear drive timing set up like Milidon....(other then they are expensive)?

* I missed the link above for the Donovan set up but would still like to get your take on them.

I like the Donovan and the Milodon. The Donovan is probably the nicer of the two. I wouldn't hesitate to use either though. Keith Black makes one too.
I like gear drives over belts for street use because you don't have to periodically replace the gears like you have to with a belt. Jesel says to replace the belt annually.
 
The dual plane was simply for hood clearance. He did not want to go with multiple carbs either. Believe me, I tried. The Stage V dual 4 would have been tha balls.
The customer want to run any kind of hood scoop and it's getting a turbo 400 with a gear vendors overdrive and a BTE North Star converter. The stall is less than 3K..
It's a unique set of requirements as this thing has to be able to cruise at 2700 rpm on the freeway. We'll see how it all shakes down. It's going to be interesting. I did cut the plenum and rework the thing some.
I have the stage V 2-4 under my stock hood. I run a GV on a 727 and cruise close to that rpm at 70. Converter is a 3800 coan. Drag week car.
 
I have the stage V 2-4 under my stock hood. I run a GV on a 727 and cruise close to that rpm at 70. Converter is a 3800 coan. Drag week car.

Very cool. I wish I could have talked him into a 2x4 setup. Unfortunately, I did not build the transmission for this project. The worry was, that having a higher stall than the cruise rpm would be cause for full lockup issues and subsequent transmission heat. I'm not sure I would have been so conservative on the converter myself. I can drive my car around with a 6000 stall and it's just fine under low load.
I actually did build a transmission, just in case there was an issue with the guy who was supposed to be doing it. It's on the shelf.
 
Well, we got this on the dyno today. It fired in less than a rotation and ran really nice. It idles with very little lope at all and sounds real quiet and mellow.

We did some heat cycles and ring loading for a bit. Before doing any pulls, we did some road load testing too. It needs to run real smooth at 2200-2500 as that is what the highway cruise rpm will be. With 100# of torque on the brake, it's like a motor home engine...real smooth with no chop. Patrick at Pro Systems really did a great job on the carb. Remember, this car has power brakes and air conditioning.

Well, we made a few pulls from 4000-6000 rpm (I wanted to pull it lower, but the brake was having a hard time holding it). On the third pull, with 32° of timing, it's making 785#/feet of torque at 4000 and 755hp at 6000. The fuel curve is running a little fat, so I need to open the air bleeds up. I suspect it would like some carb spacer, but it's not in the program. Hood clearance is a issue.

We had to quit because it shredded the damper assembly on the dyno's input shaft drive plate. At the end of the pull, the brake tries to pull the engine back down and we didn't pull out fast enough I guess. It drove right through it.

We need to order a new damper assembly from Superflow and finish this thing up on Tuesday.

I will post more when it's done.
 
Finished dynoing today after fixing the drive plate.

It runs real well, idles very nice with a mild lope at 900 rpm. It liked 34° of timing and the BSFC was very low for a pump gas engine. I'm guessing this is due to the high cylinder head velocity because of the large cubic inch.

It "simulated" road tested great. Runs smooth at 2500 with a 100# load. The EGTs are very consistent. Again, the cam is quite small, but the target of 6000 rpm top end was reached. With the low stall, overdrive transmission and conservative compression, this should be quite a sleeper.

image.jpg
 
Great thread, thanks for sharing all your, tricks, great work & Research/Information with all of us... I saved it to refer back to...
 
HOLY ****!!!!!! I love it!!!!

Just what is the damned Bore and Stroke in this 605? I just gotta know!!!!!!!!!
 
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