Using filler on engines, rear ends etc ?

[Cranky]

I want to do some smoothing on an 8 3/4 and am wondering how fillers do on things that get hot. Also, if it's ok to use fillers on this stuff, would it be better to apply a couple of coats of epoxy primer first or the filler then primer all of it? The rough pitted areas will be sand blasted 1st.

 

[Lionized]

I've never tried it but something Aluminum based would probably work.

http://http://www.alvinproducts.com/ProductLine/tabid/62/aT/View/ProductID/3/Lab-metal.aspx

 

[WP29440SE]

I would definitely use the filler right over the freshly blasted areas then sand and prime. I've known folks who have used filler on engines and axles with great success when the filler is mixed properly and applied right on the bare metal. I don't recall the filler types though

 

[snakeoil24]

After blasting is done soak the housing in Phosphoric acid to remove remaining pit rust. When its done the remaining rust will turn black. You can also soak it in Molasses at a dilution of 1:4 usually 3 to 4 days. Rinse dry then clean with Wax and grease remover until all signs of grease are gone. Apply 2 coats of Epoxy then use Clausen z Glass. Shape till happy.

 

[The Claw]

Hi Mr. Cranky,
Found this article in an old High Performance Mopar.



- - - Updated - - -

 

[69a100]

Hi Mr. Cranky,
Found this article in an old High Performance Mopar.

I remember that article! If Cranky can read that he's got Superman eyes. If the surface is prepped right, I would think bondo would hold and work? Good Luck

 

[Cranky]

I remember that article! If Cranky can read that he's got Superman eyes. If the surface is prepped right, I would think bondo would hold and work? Good Luck

LOL Yeah, I blew it up a bit plus put on a stronger pair of readers! I also remember that article now and the Roach runner. Damn, I'm getting old Thanks for all the replies and think I have a handle on what to do with it. Also have some of these products on the shelf but some of them are getting kinda old too....

 

[krowbar]

If you have really deep pits on the rear you might want to try some J.B. Weld or epoxy puddy? That's what I should have done last week when I finished mine. I put New XHD springs on and cleaned and painted the rear end and drive shaft. I buffed everything off with paint stripping wheels. Cleaned everything off then primed and painted. I used zinc paint on the drive shaft.

 

[Photon440]

The rear end housing shouldn't get that hot, think of the temperature of a black painted hood under noon day sun.

If you really want higher temp filler, this stuff is good to 360 degrees and is fairly chemical resistant.
http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1511.aspx

If you want more, like 1,000 degrees then...
http://alvinproducts.com/ProductLine/tabid/62/aT/View/ProductID/6/Hi-Temp-Lab-metal.aspx

 

[Pistol Pete]

After blasting is done soak the housing in Phosphoric acid to remove remaining pit rust. When its done the remaining rust will turn black. You can also soak it in Molasses at a dilution of 1:4 usually 3 to 4 days. Rinse dry then clean with Wax and grease remover until all signs of grease are gone. Apply 2 coats of Epoxy then use Clausen z Glass. Shape till happy.

^^ This

 

[Cranky]

I ended up blasting the whole housing yesterday and there isn't anymore rust pits! It wasn't as bad off as I thought.

 

[Photon440]

Always good to have a pleasant surprise!

 

[hammond472]

I use the old school "All Metal" aluminum body filler. The stuff goes on smooth, sticks to all metals and sands well. It will outlast Bondo and is easy to work with. Sounds like you won't need it but still good to know.

 

[Hemi 354]

To read it better, just hold down the "CTL" button while manipulating the wheel on your mouse.

 

[Cranky]

To read it better, just hold down the "CTL" button while manipulating the wheel on your mouse.

Yup....that's what I did.