66plysat
Well-Known Member
Love my Mopar but really dislike all the wiring and hoses in the engine. I would like to see pictures of disguised or hidden hoses or wiring. I have a 66 Satty, but pictures of any Mopar would be appreciated for ideas.
How did you improve the looks or hide engine bay hoses or wiring
- Thread starter 66plysat
- Start date
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
I'd like to see that too.
Hmmm....no pics but I do have some ideas. It depends on how much you want spend and how much time you want to invest. I'll go with lots, on both counts! So, first, A/C...instead of routing the hoses straight through the firewall, put a 90* fitting inside the firewall and run them out inside the fender on top and then down to the area above the frame and out into the engine bay. You would need to take some measurements for length and have the hoses made. Mount the compressor on the passenger side down low. Put your M/C under the dash on a 90* bracket and run the lines out under the fender next to the frame and straight down and backwards next to the frame. Move the wiring block from the drivers side high up, to the passengers side low down, so the wires run up to the engine and across the side of the intake encased in something cool looking. Put the battery in the trunk. MSD on the radiator frame. See the thread on here about wiring looms. Heater hoses follow the A/C lines. Fuel lines forward and through, above or beside, A/C lines and up to a cooler stuffed up and forward in the wasted space behind the headlights inside fender, with a shield from dirt and rocks, then backwards along the frame or next to the A/C lines. For starters anyway...lol.
I would have tidied up the fuel lines a bit instead of leaving them hanging in mid air and that upper rad hose is just hideous. A little project for you in days to come. Just MHO.
Not my work it's how I received the car. Yeah hose is unsightly and fuel lines could have been routed better but it's a race car not a show car. Just an ideal for the original poster to consider.
I used a piece of copper tube with silver soldered brackets for a conduit across the engine. In my case I drilled and tapped the injector bungs. It is now painted silver to match the aluminum. I will be using a loom to cover the wiring also.
Mike
Mike
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
I just got this Eaton/Cooper Bussman fuse/relay box to try cleaning up some of the wiring. Now I need to figure where to mount it? Needs to be somewhat close to the radiator support. I am using the relays for head lights, A/C compressor, and maybe the cooling fans (I think the 30 Amp relay will be OK with the 13" cooling fan?) One relay/fuse for each fan.
The box has a power bus that supplies power to all 10 fuses. Each relay is fused with the 30-Amp fuse(s). The 15-Amp fuses can be used for other fused circuits (not on the relays.)
The harness brings out both the high ans low side of the relay trigger, but I might wire the non-switched side under the box, that will remove 5-wires from the harness.
The box has a power bus that supplies power to all 10 fuses. Each relay is fused with the 30-Amp fuse(s). The 15-Amp fuses can be used for other fused circuits (not on the relays.)
The harness brings out both the high ans low side of the relay trigger, but I might wire the non-switched side under the box, that will remove 5-wires from the harness.
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
If it were me, I'd start with moving the MSD under the dash, run the headlamp harness along the passenger frame rail and remount those relays along the lower radiator support or tucked in as close behind the drivers side headlight assembly as possible.
Horn circuit can be combined with the headlight wiring, which is what the factory shoulda done to begin with.
This leaves the coil wire from the MSD as the only thing visible.
If the heater hoses bothered me that much, I'd just delete and plug.
Horn circuit can be combined with the headlight wiring, which is what the factory shoulda done to begin with.
This leaves the coil wire from the MSD as the only thing visible.
If the heater hoses bothered me that much, I'd just delete and plug.
BobJ
Well-Known Member
The plate should help with air flow through the radiator to keep the engine cooler. Plus it looks good.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
That is really nice. How did you route the heater hoses? Looks like they come from under the alternator.
I bought AN fittings that turned them down and routed them under the alternator and A/C pump. Surprisingly I found a picture although not a very good one.
Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Wir...UTF8&qid=1511272429&sr=1-1&keywords=tesa+tape
https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Loom-Ro...id=1511272546&sr=1-7&keywords=wire+loom+clips
Wrapped the entire engine harness with tesa' tape. Cut, stripped, and insulated every wire that wasn't necessary. You will never get rid of all your visible under hood wiring, the easiest modification you could do currently, would be to simply install your MSD box and relays inside your glove compartment or under the dash. I purchased a blue-sea systems fuse panel, rewired nearly the entire car into it and installed my 6AL-2 directly beside it.
https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Loom-Ro...id=1511272546&sr=1-7&keywords=wire+loom+clips
Wrapped the entire engine harness with tesa' tape. Cut, stripped, and insulated every wire that wasn't necessary. You will never get rid of all your visible under hood wiring, the easiest modification you could do currently, would be to simply install your MSD box and relays inside your glove compartment or under the dash. I purchased a blue-sea systems fuse panel, rewired nearly the entire car into it and installed my 6AL-2 directly beside it.
For me I was rewiring the whole car with a universal kit and took the liberty of addressing several issues I didn't like. In short.... all insight wiring bulkheads, screw or hose holes were all welded shut then one main grommet was added directly behind the intake. All engine bay wiring runs under the intake, wiper motor wiring was moved (can be seen in pic where I showed the radiator panel) and all headlight/marker wiring is ran in seal tight conduit under the fender. That pretty much sums it up, I was trying to hide while keeping everything very accessible.
Also if you look at the picture showing the radiator panel you'll notice the starter relay, still there just out of the line of sight.
Also if you look at the picture showing the radiator panel you'll notice the starter relay, still there just out of the line of sight.
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Forklift
Active Member
Grabinov911
Well-Known Member
Beautiful. I'll take one. Same color, same car. Just PM me for shipping address. Can I download the installation instructions from your website?
Damn there are some talented folks on here. Where's that guy with the crazy yellowish "ratrod" Charger!!!
I didn't do any on my current RR, I don't really show it
I made everything convenient to access
& easy to maintain...
but;
I have in the past rerouted the hoses
& electrical stuff inside the inner fender
or down the back of the engine along the pan rail or along
the frame rails & back up the front etc...
I did some wiring in conduit or fluids in stainless hard tubing too...
It's a lot more drilling, use Odell clamps & wire, dark wire sheath,
I like the Painless Powerbraid Wire wrap flexible style stuff in black
takes more hose & more clamps & a lot more work, but cleans it up
especially if your into showing it...
(I'm not really a show guy, I rarely open my hood for people, I'm more of a function type guy)
It takes more time/effort getting creative,
getting stuff inside or delete it completely...
If you're starting over from scratch...
I'd consider doing it that way, still...
IMO in many instances you need far more than the 12'-16'
of wire that comes on the kits like Ron Francis, American Autowire
or Painless too...
In the scheme of things, compared to engine or trans or rear axles
it's not that expensive {except for A/N stuff maybe, custom fuse blocks etc.}
just really time consuming, you need to get creative,
think outside the box...
----------------------------------------------------
The cover over the front between the grill & rad support
is a great place to reroute some stuff
if it's tucked to the sides or top etc.
so you don't see it thru the grill opening
I actually made something like 747mopar's
on my last old silver 68 RR {nowhere near as nice or painted}
I even made a pattern/template for it, pretty much flat angled slightly
toward the front, if that makes any sense...
I ended up modifying that design some in the final product too
I had to bend, cut & drill a few places, but it covered that area
& redirects the air coming in thru the rad & not lifting the hood
so bad at hi-speeds, when you have a scoop like a 6bbl lift off hood...
I also didn't have a hood latch, to deal with or work around...
Going something 135mph - 156mph on N20, it made a huge difference...
sorry no good photos...
I made everything convenient to access
& easy to maintain...
but;
I have in the past rerouted the hoses
& electrical stuff inside the inner fender
or down the back of the engine along the pan rail or along
the frame rails & back up the front etc...
I did some wiring in conduit or fluids in stainless hard tubing too...
It's a lot more drilling, use Odell clamps & wire, dark wire sheath,
I like the Painless Powerbraid Wire wrap flexible style stuff in black
takes more hose & more clamps & a lot more work, but cleans it up
especially if your into showing it...
(I'm not really a show guy, I rarely open my hood for people, I'm more of a function type guy)
It takes more time/effort getting creative,
getting stuff inside or delete it completely...
If you're starting over from scratch...
I'd consider doing it that way, still...
IMO in many instances you need far more than the 12'-16'
of wire that comes on the kits like Ron Francis, American Autowire
or Painless too...
In the scheme of things, compared to engine or trans or rear axles
it's not that expensive {except for A/N stuff maybe, custom fuse blocks etc.}
just really time consuming, you need to get creative,
think outside the box...
----------------------------------------------------
The cover over the front between the grill & rad support
is a great place to reroute some stuff
if it's tucked to the sides or top etc.
so you don't see it thru the grill opening
I actually made something like 747mopar's
on my last old silver 68 RR {nowhere near as nice or painted}
I even made a pattern/template for it, pretty much flat angled slightly
toward the front, if that makes any sense...
I ended up modifying that design some in the final product too
I had to bend, cut & drill a few places, but it covered that area
& redirects the air coming in thru the rad & not lifting the hood
so bad at hi-speeds, when you have a scoop like a 6bbl lift off hood...
I also didn't have a hood latch, to deal with or work around...
Going something 135mph - 156mph on N20, it made a huge difference...
sorry no good photos...
Last edited:
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