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Cooling not worth a SH!T

5.7 hemi

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I’ll start this thread as to not hijack Bill’s.

New ECP 26” radiator, New Flowkooler pump, New Milodon 180 high flow t-stat, New hoses, New Hayden 2947 clutch fan with 7 blade fan.

Damn thing still gets way too warm for my liking-210. So my buddy noticed the clutch wasn’t engaging, so I swap it with a new Hayden 2765, we let the temp get to 220, clutch still did not engage! WTF!

So I have a Volvo 2 speed fan (same as the Taurus) and it’s too thick. So I have a Derale dual fan set up with PWM, it’s too thick also.

So my 470 69’Dart is just sitting. I’m too pissed to work on it now, maybe tomorrow will be better.
 
Very odd, so correct me if I’m wrong. Idling in the driveway, no fan, ac on or off?


My .030 440 would get to 220 when idling with no shroud and just a Flex fan and 22” oe radiator soon as I started moving it would drop.
 
Idiling, ac isn’t hooked up yet, 18” clutch fan.
 
When it gets hot, is the upper inlet hot and the lower outlet cold? If so, that's a sign of a coolant flow problem, check your water pump.


Just an FYI... I had a Flowkooler pump fail after just 1100 miles. The impeller and the pulley somehow disengaged, I could spin the hub one direction and the impeller the opposite direction. I don't care for Flowkooler, I called them, they called "most of our customers are idiots who can't figure out a water pump" and told me what happened is impossible. I still have that pump, and the recording of my phone call with them.
 
There is about a 30-40* difference from top hose to bottom according to my IR gun.
 
Water flow is incredible!
 
Problem is fan clutch not engaging, stays the same speed no matter what. When I shut it off at 220, I could spin the fan very easily and it shouldn’t be like that. It should take 2 men and a boy so to speak to move the fan.

A fan clutch should engage with 170* ambient temperature which coralates to 180-190* water temperature. And it should spin at 90% of water pump speed. When they do engage, the sound is totally different than it just idle speed.
 
Yes, new reproduction shroud is in place.
 
Based on what you're saying, your fan isn't pulling enough air... what size is the core? Did you do a four row thinking that was better? That's a thick core and you have to have the best air flow to cool it at idle.

Yes, the fan should engage and not be locked but very tight. If it's still freewheeling at 200º then it's not doing its job.
 
My bad clutch fan was hard to diagnose. Subjective resistance when trying to spin by hand --.the replacement Hayden solved my idling spike problems.
 
Radiator is 26x19 with 2 1” tubes. My old 4 core 22x19 was okay at speed, but low to stopped, it would rise.
 
I have brand new Hayden clutches, 2947 and a 2765, they aren’t working and I’m 3/4” off the radiator and you don’t want more than 1”. So I’m f’ing baffled!
 
There is about a 30-40* difference from top hose to bottom according to my IR gun.
When I can keep coolant in my ECP 26 radiator the difference between upper and lower radiator hoses is 46 degrees at idle.
 
I probably have that much also, it’s hard to get an accurate reading from both hoses as they are constantly changing.
 
Hmmm, if it was me I’d dismount the fan&clutch and try a little propane heat at the front of clutch. See if it starts turning harder( they could both be bad?) I know,I know.
 
Place a box fan in front of the grill. See if temps change.
 
Place a box fan in front of the grill. See if temps change.
I`m wondering how much h.p. ur 470 is putting out. 2 rows of 1" tubes in a 26x19 , might not be enough for "BIG" h.p. My 505 is supposedly around 723h.p., and a 28x19 crossflow, w/ a 17"/7 blade mech fan, and an elec. back up pusher in front is just barely adequate . Getting it broke in will probly help a little.
 
Tried the propane torch also, no difference in resistance by either clutch. The bi-metal spring did move, but the amount of turning torque, my calibrated arm, says there was no difference.

Box fan was enlisted to see if it made any difference, no difference!
 
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