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who pays 10k for a paint job

'67 Petty Belvedere was $30K in paint and body and I have a '65 Mustang fastback 54K original miles returning to it's born with Champagne Beige Metallic at $25K with zero rust. These are Silicon Valley prices and no one will touch these cars as the $ is all in the churn of insurance work. Luckily found an old school guy that will take them as long as he can work on them when the insurance work lulls.
 
I was quoted $14000 and I disassembled the complete car, that was stripping car and painting underneath also
 
'67 Petty Belvedere was $30K in paint and body and I have a '65 Mustang fastback 54K original miles returning to it's born with Champagne Beige Metallic at $25K with zero rust. These are Silicon Valley prices and no one will touch these cars as the $ is all in the churn of insurance work. Luckily found an old school guy that will take them as long as he can work on them when the insurance work lulls.
People have different tastes....Some are happy with a 20 footer and some are happy with a 1 footer.......I have seen many cars that look good in pictures but in person they don't look that good.....

The prices you quoted are "realistic" true professional pricing....Also, ones that typically come with a warranty on the paint and body work......Not some guy that does a "good" paint job in a poor environment with water in the air line.....Time tells everything between a mediocre paint and body and one done right......

BTW your 67 looks amazing.....my kinda restoration......
 
$7K plus in House of Kolors materials on my Bee. Thankfully the shop owner didn't bill be his time applying 4 coats of colour and 3 Klear ! ( although I'm sure it was built into the daily hour shop sheets of his body man!). You don't want to know the total bill, hell I don't want to add it up!
 
$7K plus in House of Kolors materials on my Bee. Thankfully the shop owner didn't bill be his time applying 4 coats of colour and 3 Klear ! ( although I'm sure it was built into the daily hour shop sheets of his body man!). You don't want to know the total bill, hell I don't want to add it up!
lol...Wayne....

I have been contemplating just throwing the binder of receipts into the fireplace....

The end product shows....Yours BEE is absolutely amazing.....
 
700 hours on a paint job? Maybe using a q-tip
Then You don't understand what it takes to tune a surface.....just improper color sanding can result in ripples. All the priming & blocking that goes into building a level surface that people casually call prep work....that's straightening, fine tuning.....there are those who know how to do it, those who do not know how to do it, and all those anywhere in between. It's body work.....prep work is something done in a kitchen.
 
Then You don't understand what it takes to tune a surface.....just improper color sanding can result in ripples. All the priming & blocking that goes into building a level surface that people casually call prep work....that's straightening, fine tuning.....there are those who know how to do it, those who do not know how to do it, and all those anywhere in between. It's body work.....prep work is something done in a kitchen.
I understand that. So you're saying bodywork takes 700 hours?
 
Price a 3 stage red system, just the top coat materials, not including tape & paper etc, just the paint materials.....3K + for American materials like PPG,,,4500 + for German or Dutch materials like Glasurit or Sickens....talking red which is the most expensive pigment.
 
I had my 1931 full fendered original sheet metal 4 door Ford street rod taken down to bare metal 4 months ago and sprayed with primer, 6 coats of paint and 5 coats of clear. It was $4500 and well worth it. This guy near me has a family owned business and less overhead than the big guys. He would do my 68 convertible B Body down to bare metal and painted for $6200. I think that's a good price for high quality work.
 
I understand that. So you're saying bodywork takes 700 hours?
Large area, some shapes are more difficult than others to block....the work is 80% or better, block sanding....sanding is the direct reciprocal of the shape you're going to end up with, sanding takes a lot of skill & concentration, developing patterns, knowing what shape & size block to use where....when trying to get as absolute as possible, it takes focus, focus, focus........& still nothing comes out absolutely flawless. 200 % effort to hopefully get à 95 % result. The relentless pursuit of perfection.
 
Reality for a production/collision shop....they don't want completes, the money is in doing spot jobs. Say a 4 bay shop....it costs a lot of money to keep the doors open everyday......they take on a strip & paint for 5 grand....strip it, do some minor metal & fill work, prime & block it a couple times,(hopefully they have an oven to accelerate cure on ALL materials **as they are applied**), squirt the car, nib it and buff it. If they don't get it done in 2 weeks, they're starting to lose money on that bay the car is occupying....flip side is that 2 weeks is TOO GODDAMNED FAST to work all those materials & six months later the paint, primer, filler are going to be post cured & shrunk down. All materials have solvent, solvent makes for density, as solvent vents off, density is lost, shrinkage occurs. Fresh paint vents its solvent off for a YEAR.
Moral of the story is it's impossible to do a better than 'just acceptable' job in 2 weeks.
I've spent the better part of my life doing this **** and it truly is 'hell's kitchen'. 'Do it AGAIN' is a motto. Rule is, 'if you can't stand the heat, get OUT of the kitchen'.
 
People have different tastes....Some are happy with a 20 footer and some are happy with a 1 footer.......I have seen many cars that look good in pictures but in person they don't look that good.....

The prices you quoted are "realistic" true professional pricing....Also, ones that typically come with a warranty on the paint and body work......Not some guy that does a "good" paint job in a poor environment with water in the air line.....Time tells everything between a mediocre paint and body and one done right......

BTW your 67 looks amazing.....my kinda restoration......
I can definitely agree here but for a lot of us those prices are a deal breaker especially when you have a family to take care of. My Charger is probably the worst paint job I've ever done, built a new booth, had water filters in the lines and it still gave me fits but I learned from it. What I learned is an all metal booth no matter how much you scrub is nowhere near as affective as plastic and humidity is an absolute killer. In the end I was able to fix most as I went and buff out the flaws so I'm very happy with it but still feel there's much room for improvement. The last car I painted before the Charger needed very little bodywork so start to finish was quick and sprayed in a plastic booth, didn't have to touch the paint afterwards at all, no runs, no orange peel... perfect other than one set of fly tracks on the dutchman panel.

Since then I've been building a new garage with emphasis on climate control and won't waste money on building another booth but instead go back to a plastic booth. My paint area will have radiant heat in the floor or radiators as to not move air while maintaining a comfy temp and there will be A/C to keep humidity at bay in the summer.

We'll see how it goes on Dad's truck which will have about $1,000 in materials.
 
All of these factors of how much your spending is determined to what is underneath the finish you get the quote on ..
I know of a person up here that has about 50k just in metal work on a 69 charger. He tapped himself out. Now it sits as a bare shell on wheels
Hes been quoted another 50 to get it completed from shell to driver .
Now whats a 318 69 worth? Sure not a hundred grand . Hed be lucky to see 40 finished .
 
I can definitely agree here but for a lot of us those prices are a deal breaker especially when you have a family to take care of. My Charger is probably the worst paint job I've ever done, built a new booth, had water filters in the lines and it still gave me fits but I learned from it. What I learned is an all metal booth no matter how much you scrub is nowhere near as affective as plastic and humidity is an absolute killer. In the end I was able to fix most as I went and buff out the flaws so I'm very happy with it but still feel there's much room for improvement. The last car I painted before the Charger needed very little bodywork so start to finish was quick and sprayed in a plastic booth, didn't have to touch the paint afterwards at all, no runs, no orange peel... perfect other than one set of fly tracks on the dutchman panel.

Since then I've been building a new garage with emphasis on climate control and won't waste money on building another booth but instead go back to a plastic booth. My paint area will have radiant heat in the floor or radiators as to not move air while maintaining a comfy temp and there will be A/C to keep humidity at bay in the summer.

We'll see how it goes on Dad's truck which will have about $1,000 in materials.
Everyone has a different lifestyle and a different job....some make more and some make less....

It wasn’t my choice the man above denied us multiple attempts for children....I had to respect my wife’s wishes at that point....even if we did it wouldn’t change the course of my projects.....

When I made less I went back to school and advanced my career....worked two jobs and went to school full time and paid for the schooling.......
 
one set of fly tracks
A buddy of mine painted some kind of 4 door Chevy circa early 80's he was flipping. Something like a 82 Caprice.
He painted it in a muffler shop garage with the roll up doors closed.
An unfortunate fly got all of its feet stuck.
We got a kick out of the fly ornament.
 
Everyone has a different lifestyle and a different job....some make more and some make less....

It wasn’t my choice the man above denied us multiple attempts for children....I had to respect my wife’s wishes at that point....even if we did it wouldn’t change the course of my projects.....

When I made less I went back to school and advanced my career....worked two jobs and went to school full time and paid for the schooling.......
Good for you, hard work pays off and it shows in your work on here as well.
 
I painted a blown alcohol hydro in 91 @ Roosevelt Lake, Az. Had to paint it in the marina boat shop using the old RM lacquer base/RV-86 urethane clear which is some of the wettest, stickiest I know of...waited 45 mins for the tack coat to get stringy. Wet the floor down & a big fan pointed out the door @ 2:00 am after waiting out the bugs. Unbelievably the cleanest shoot I've ever gotten, could count the dust heads on my fingers & toes. After finishing & cleaning gun I'm standing at the bow leaning over looking in center of deck & a daddy long legs falls into the exact spot I'm scoping. Fortunately it was a big dude & I just reached out & grabbed him before he could start trekking.
 
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