• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Rich idle is killing me

Cam is an Engle [email protected] hydraulic flat tappet .539 lift with a 110 degree lobe separation. I am going to go use propane right now to run around the intake and carb and make sure there is no leak. No **** you are telling me man! This has me stumped and I am pretty good with the Holley’s......Thing I don’t get is it smokes a tiny bit and it’s fuel it doesn’t seem lean at all.
 
Last edited:
Man, it's like pulling teeth.

Engle K62/K64? 294°/298°, 244°/249°, 110° LSA w/ 76° overlap. Correct?

That cam and overlap on a 500 inch motor with a manual transmission should not be too bad, but probably 10" - 11" hg is about right as a guess. 900 rpm is probably where it should be.

Propane and aerosols for finding vacuum leaks has been a 50-50 deal for me. Hand over the carb - 100%.
 
K62. Well after talking to you I jammed a full turn to the idle screws and it definitely was lean! It runs wayyyyy better at around a turn and a half out at 900 rpm. I am glad you said something because it seemed lathargic to me and apparently it was. Sorry I was in the middle of driving and trying to send you what I had off my head wasn’t home yet.
 
Man, it's like pulling teeth.

Engle K62/K64? 294°/298°, 244°/249°, 110° LSA w/ 76° overlap. Correct?

That cam and overlap on a 500 inch motor with a manual transmission should not be too bad, but probably 10" - 11" hg is about right as a guess. 900 rpm is probably where it should be.

Propane and aerosols for finding vacuum leaks has been a 50-50 deal for me. Hand over the carb - 100%.

Hand over the carb and it dies. Not drawing vacuum leaks from anywhere that I can see.
 
Last edited:
K62. Well after talking to you I jammed a full turn to the idle screws and it definitely was lean! It runs wayyyyy better at around a turn and a half out at 900 rpm. I am glad you said something because it seemed lathargic to me and apparently it was. Sorry I was in the middle of driving and trying to send you what I had off my head wasn’t home yet.

If you look back I suggested how the mixture screws should be set
 
Last edited:
If you look back I suggested how the mixture screws should be set

Yea it’s just one of those things that screws with you. A lot going on all at once and with all the problems I had with the previous engine I inherited, it’s easy to get off the beaten path lol. After what you 68 HEMI GTS and BSB67 said, I said obv something isn’t right here and let me try something here. Kicker was when I was hearing the idle flutter and then it kept wanting to die. Then I looked back at your HEMI GTS posts and paged through and saw BSB new comment and said man this is not right here. It's amazing how easy it is to get twisted up when you have alot going on. I still think those IFR screws helped me gain more control over the idle circuit and I’ll have to tinker with it a bit more but way better now. This motor is definitely a special breed with the big cam that adds a new level to tuning for sure! I prefer my somewhat stock setups, but again this is what I inherited. Thanks for all your help guys! MUCH APPRECIATED! Learned alot from the stupid escapade.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
This is about max secondary transfer slot I will run. This is on my 1050/4150. I spent a bunch of time getting the cruise happy though. My dominator that’s on the car now has none, it’s super clean running.

A1F291CA-1793-4067-94EE-33DC0245719C.jpeg
 
I’ll add two pennies. I set my mixture screws with a tach. Not the dash tach. It’s called a smart tach and reads rpms by 1. As in it will show differences down to 1 rpm. Now the engine isn’t steady enough for that but within 10 or 15 rpms. I adjust the screws out until it drops. Back in until it drops. Making note of how many turns. Then just watch the smart tach. Adjust all 1/8 turn at a time until it’s the highest rpm level. It’s almost perfect and can be obtained to within 20 rpm pretty easily. The smart tach also reads kv voltage and you can check plugs and wires in just a minute. Finds misfires. Really great tool for tuning and diagnosis. Battery operated. No wires. One lead that stays right where you put it.
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top