450 plus ft lbs of torque from 2,900 to 5,000 RPMs, at the rear tires, which will probably require replacement, often, unless someone has a lot more restraint than I do...LOL.
Requests for real life 1st or 2nd hand experience with the Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake
- Thread starter biomedtechguy
- Start date
Overall good article. Once the F&B system was installed (Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake, 3 F&B throttle bodies, and the 60 pound fuel injectors) and the Holley HP EFI control system, the engine fired up and idled on the first turn of the ignition switch. They had to reduce the timing advance in certain RPM ranges by as much as 9°, but it appears that the built in Holley A/F ratio data tables are a great starting foundation and the article said that the system learned quickly.
If there was a 15% loss in the driveline, 450 ft lbs of torque at the wheels equals out to about 550 ft lbs at the flywheel. If there was a 20% driveline loss, 575 ft lbs was the flywheel output of torque from the 505 cu in stroker RB.
Horsepower was around 425 at 5k RPM, so at 20% loss, that's around 530 flywheel horsepower, and the car owner was looking for 500 HP at the flywheel.
I'm looking for close to 600 horsepower and at least 650 ft lbs of torque (so I can put the Charger in the article on the trailer) LOL. The numbers I'm looking for didn't come out of thin air or a bottle of liquor, they are numbers quite a few builders have hit with a 6bbl Holley setup and a stroker RB motor. I'm certain that the F&B direct port injection 3x2 throttle body setup is capable of those numbers too, as long as F&B knows the target ahead of time, and the rest of the engine is built and planned accordingly.
If there was a 15% loss in the driveline, 450 ft lbs of torque at the wheels equals out to about 550 ft lbs at the flywheel. If there was a 20% driveline loss, 575 ft lbs was the flywheel output of torque from the 505 cu in stroker RB.
Horsepower was around 425 at 5k RPM, so at 20% loss, that's around 530 flywheel horsepower, and the car owner was looking for 500 HP at the flywheel.
I'm looking for close to 600 horsepower and at least 650 ft lbs of torque (so I can put the Charger in the article on the trailer) LOL. The numbers I'm looking for didn't come out of thin air or a bottle of liquor, they are numbers quite a few builders have hit with a 6bbl Holley setup and a stroker RB motor. I'm certain that the F&B direct port injection 3x2 throttle body setup is capable of those numbers too, as long as F&B knows the target ahead of time, and the rest of the engine is built and planned accordingly.
gkent
Well-Known Member
Ok, excuse my ignorance BUT ... who is F & B ???
They have been doing EFI systems, including a lot for MOPARs, for a while, but keeping a low profile.
Good, knowledgeable, helpful, experienced.
http://www.fbthrottlebodies.com/
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
You’d better get the other half involved for this build . You can’t hide this kind of money.... lol
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
Bio, just checking, did you go with the OEM style EDE 6 Pak manifold or the STR style?
The Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake came on the heavy rods/steel crank 71 440 in my car. It still is, and the only likely change would be the Indy ModMan intake w/my 3x2 Promax modded Holley carbs or a 3x2 EFI DPI F&B system.
So did the purple stripe cam, which I and others suspect is the 292°/.509 cam. My 440 pulls HARD to 6,200 RPMs, ever since I installed the CompCams hydraulic flat tappet lifters and CompCams springs, locks, and retainers. I had the sensation that as the RPMs got in the 5k range the power was REALLY coming on, but would fall off sharply. The stock springs were way down on pressure open and closed, so I installed the CompCams gear and new pushrods too.
I have my shift light set at 5,800 and my rev limiter set at 6,200 RPMs. When I show off and light up the 315/35/17 drag radials, the engine just seems to naturally pull to 6,200 on its own, like it WANTS to.
I am going to chassis dyno it and see the truth, and I may adjust the shift light down and the rev limiter as well, or realize that my butt dyno is a precision instrument.
The video sucks, but here's a good audio clip of my car trailering a SRT Jeep at the 1320:
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
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Yes. My 1st call would be Wilson Manifolds. I would get the most out of the trip to Wilson. Any port match to my future TrickFlow 240s would be included in the requested work to be done. Budnicks suggested an open rectangular spacer plate. If I knew I wasn't going to use the Nitrous Express 3x2 nitrous oxide plate system, that would be OK. If I do or may use NOS, I would not have space for a spacer plate and the spray plates and still be able to use my N96 setup. The N96 is a must with the current Edelbrock/Chrysler intake or the more likely Indy ModMan intake (single plane, more plenum for a stroker motor).
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
Modern cylinder head did that work. Should be pretty easy to duplicate for anyone with any porting experience.
@68 HEMI GTS
So that is your 6bbl intake 68 HEMI GTS?
Please, PLEASE elaborate on your experiences with it: engine size, specs, cam profile, CR, carb mods, anything!
It is very important to me!
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
It is not mine although I plan to duplicate the intake on mine. It was on an all steel v code 70 Bee that was running 10.40’s through full exhaust and tail pipes and the air grabber. 4.250 stroke 440, TF240’s, medium size solid roller and 12:1 compression. Vacuum carbs. Think it had a 4.10 gear. Stick car but he had a TF in it. That’s about all I know.
Pick of said car when it was slower
Pick of said car when it was slower
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10s in a B-Body 6bbl stroker, 4.10 R&P...I would be happy to accomplish the same with my 70 Roadrunner.
Mine has a Passon 5 speed, and that is going to connect the future stroker motor to the 4.10. I am going to get a hydraulic clutch setup as soon as I can, and probably have to upgrade from my 2,900# diaphragm style McLeod pp and single street strip disc to some kind of dual disc unit to withstand the slippage that the HitMaster launch setup will impart. A guy is using a Ram dual disc setup w/a 2,900# pp and a manual transmission and he has had excellent results on launching and traction out the hole.
Keep me in the loop on this please.
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68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
Dual clutch will break parts if it hooks. 10sec stick b body will take lots of trick parts. I broke lots of parts in my dart when it had a clutch.
The story is the HitMaster and the Ram dual disc clutch are working very well together to provide adjustable slip of the clutch at the launch. I would have to search for the post, but the story told of the harmony and synergy of the hydraulic clutch TO bearing, HitMaster launch control, and the dual disc clutch and pp are EXACTLY what I hoped they would be. No spin launches with major G forces and a clutch that doesn't complain about the job. No broken parts as the clutch is allowing for the required slippage-consistently, and that is adjustable.
I'm sold! I just need the money to line up the gear, and I may wait to upgrade to the triangulated rear suspension system because I am pretty sure my leaf springs are shot.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
Never heard of a hit master. Is this something that’s been used in a big heavy b body? Most of the guys use an actual slipper clutch. I ran a tim Hyatt mccloud soft lock with a sintered iron disk.
Yes. 69 Super Bee IIRC...
Dang it! Now I'm going to find the post.
I appreciate your input, advice, experience and concern, but I had zero influence on the post this guy made about his experience with the HitMaster, hydraulic throwout bearing, and dual disc clutch setup, and the report he gave was EXACTLY what I was hoping for, and exactly what the HitMaster was designed to do in conjunction with a stout clutch that can handle the job and a hydraulic TOB. I was going to use the ClutchTamer, but I have since decided to convert my Z bar mechanical clutch to a hydraulic setup, and then I found out about the HitMaster, and I AM STOKED!
EDIT: His clutch disc is a dual friction disc, not a dual disc clutch...Maybe my street strip disc can handle the job after all. My pressure plate is the same clamping force as his, about 2,900#
Here's the post:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ction-mt-et-bias.174525/page-2#post-911285306
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
Yes. 69 Super Bee IIRC...
Dang it! Now I'm going to find the post.
I appreciate your input, advice, experience and concern, but I had zero influence on the post this guy made about his experience with the HitMaster, hydraulic throwout bearing, and dual disc clutch setup, and the report he gave was EXACTLY what I was hoping for, and exactly what the HitMaster was designed to do in conjunction with a stout clutch that can handle the job and a hydraulic TOB. I was going to use the ClutchTamer, but I have since decided to convert my Z bar mechanical clutch to a hydraulic setup, and then I found out about the HitMaster, and I AM STOKED!
EDIT: His clutch disc is a dual friction disc, not a dual disc clutch...Maybe my street strip disc can handle the job after all. My pressure plate is the same clamping force as his, about 2,900#
Here's the post:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ction-mt-et-bias.174525/page-2#post-911285306
Sounds kinda cool, I’d be really skeptical on its performance till I seen some actual track data. When I see it work in a 3800# b body that can go 10’s I’ll be a believer. Until then, not so much.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
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