• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Indy Maxx aluminum water jacketed block. Anyone who has one, I have a couple of ??

biomedtechguy

Accelerati Rapidus Maximus
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
3:05 PM
Joined
Mar 28, 2014
Messages
33,720
Reaction score
53,477
Location
South Louisiana
When I get a WEDGE head stroker motor built, I don't want to have to worry about pushing it too far. My target HP is 600 and 650 torque. I am definitely going to have a 3x2 intake setup, starting with Promax modded Holley carbs, and the dual plane Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake, with the Indy ModMan 6bbl as an option for a single plane intake. If I go with an aftermarket block, I would probably ditch the factory 6bbl intake and go to the ModMan, and even consider the TrickFlow 270 MaxWedge ports vs the 240s.
From what I have read, that is towards the upper limit of the factory block. I would like the option of adding a 100-200 HP spacer plate based Nitrous Oxide system, to have that headroom should I want to step up who I can compete against in a heads up grudge race. Then again, I may find that 600HP/650TQ is as much power that I can handle...
I am keeping my current 71 440 heavy rods forged crank engine intact, so I'd have to buy another block anyway, and unless I bought aftermarket, I'd have to trust that the factory block the builder used was a good block.
Given the cost of the build, and the cost of iron aftermarket blocks, the cost of a girdle and machining aluminum caps, I don't have a problem given all of the costs involved, to just go all out and get an Indy aluminum Maxx block.
Is anyone using a water jacketed Indy Maxx aluminum block in a stroker wedge configuration as a STREET/strip car?
I may go to the track twice a month once it's all said and done, but now I only run at the track a few times a year.
Any feedback is welcome, including opinions/experience on what a 600HP/650 TQ engine is like driving and racing in a B-Body on the street and occasionally at the 1320.
Thanks
 
I have a Muscle Motors built all aluminum 540 on an engine stand while I finish the body. It was spec'd as a mainly street engine but I have never fired it up. It was run and partially tuned at MMs. I have noticed Indy has raised their prices for the Max quite a bit.
Mike
 
I would love to have aluminum block if any one supplier had a fool proof product but the cost of a factory B-RB after full machining etc. by a specialized engine shop with all the latest machinery/knowledge is very costly in time and money also. So I really wouldn't mind the initial cost of an aluminum block that is within reason and [Ready to Go]! I'm in that 600/650 HP area and I really am not searching for much more raw power but I am really after the weight differential.
 
I would love to have aluminum block if any one supplier had a fool proof product but the cost of a factory B-RB after full machining etc. by a specialized engine shop with all the latest machinery/knowledge is very costly in time and money also. So I really wouldn't mind the initial cost of an aluminum block that is within reason and [Ready to Go]! I'm in that 600/650 HP area and I really am not searching for much more raw power but I am really after the weight differential.
X2!
 
Doing all of this with a stock '77 block and ported Stealth heads, LOL.
No girdle, arp studs in the mains. 600 hp N/A and a 200 shot of nitrous.

Very light rotating assembly and redline of 6400 rpm helps keep it alive.

True street car that gets driven everywhere and raced every weekend I have the opportunity.

As far as the experience, it's a LOT of fun, very reliable and easy to drive with 11" converter and 3.54 gear.

10.40 @ 130 mph and 6.48 @ 105 recently in the 1/8th at 3600 lbs. I pulled off a 1.37 60 ft. and had a great wheelie a few weeks ago. Mostly stock suspension with Cal-Tracs and split mono's.
 
Very light rotating assembly and redline of 6400 rpm helps keep it alive.
Bore and Stroke? What components ie rods, pistons, crank?
I'm looking at Eagle crank and rods w/ESP treatment. I'd consider Molnar or another manufacturer if someone can convince me that the manufacturer of their choice makes a notably better product.
If I use a factory block, I am absolutely sold on the unique design and concept behind this cap and girdle set. My local engine builder was really impressed with it because of the design:
http://www.bcrproducts.com/caps_and_girdle_system.html
In particular:
Benefits---First--- the caps are tied to the girdle without the use of the main studs and is a more secure and stable way to do it without putting the main stud into a double stretch. Second-- the caps are much larger and stronger than any cap available and will help with shock absorption. Three-- this design follows the main webbing and will encapsulate the block into four separate chambers. This will greatly reduce windage and the cyclone effect of. This is an old trick that high end racing motors have done for years F1 included. This in itself will be worth a substantial amount of HP on any high RPM application. Four-- this system is the only one that ties in the #5 main cap. Why don't the others, because they can't as the #5 main studs come up through into the pan rail area. we have made our dedicated cap fasten to the girdle by moving the fasteners forward of the pan rail for pan clearance. No one else can do this because no one else makes there caps and girdles together in one place.
Look at this!
p1030751_small.jpg
 
Bore and Stroke? What components ie rods, pistons, crank?
I'm looking at Eagle crank and rods w/ESP treatment. I'd consider Molnar or another manufacturer if someone can convince me that the manufacturer of their choice makes a notably better product.
If I use a factory block, I am absolutely sold on the unique design and concept behind this cap and girdle set. My local engine builder was really impressed with it because of the design:
http://www.bcrproducts.com/caps_and_girdle_system.html
In particular:
Benefits---First--- the caps are tied to the girdle without the use of the main studs and is a more secure and stable way to do it without putting the main stud into a double stretch. Second-- the caps are much larger and stronger than any cap available and will help with shock absorption. Three-- this design follows the main webbing and will encapsulate the block into four separate chambers. This will greatly reduce windage and the cyclone effect of. This is an old trick that high end racing motors have done for years F1 included. This in itself will be worth a substantial amount of HP on any high RPM application. Four-- this system is the only one that ties in the #5 main cap. Why don't the others, because they can't as the #5 main studs come up through into the pan rail area. we have made our dedicated cap fasten to the girdle by moving the fasteners forward of the pan rail for pan clearance. No one else can do this because no one else makes there caps and girdles together in one place.
Look at this!
View attachment 862355

Bore is just .030 over stock. Mahle pistons. 4.25 Molnar crank with BBC 2.20 rod journals. Molnar 7.1" long rods. 505"
 
Every time I see "Molnar" it is associated with solid builds from knowledgeable, experienced people.
I really like that the Eagle facility is in my neighboring state, and I am sold on their ESP finish technology. Having said that, I am not a devout worshiper of Eagle, especially if someone can compare why Molnar or _______ would be a better choice for my rods and crank or either.
 
My MAXX block was cast in 03 #445 and has no provision for a dipstick FYI.
 
@biomedtechguy , like that girdle main cap system . i'm doing an iron block with thick cylinder walls , 4.5 bryant crank . turning it down it bbc rod ends , keeping the bore as small as we can , min of 4.4 . its 4.38 now . its tobe street strip car . i've got stage 6 mw alloy heads fully pro ported , do i need a better head ? i think that girdle setup would hold it together better that what i've got info on . do we get any cost breaks . i never hear of anyone running carrillo rods any more , any reason ? going with racetec piston . my cam guy has a special grind for my build .
DSC00728.JPG
 
My MAXX block was cast in 03 #445 and has no provision for a dipstick FYI.
I would certainly want a way to check my oil level without having to drain all the oil and refill it. Is there a boss that can be drilled for a dipstick?
Bill Mitchell is offering this according to their website:
Screenshot_20191108-164300_Chrome.jpg

Bulldog still doesn't show a price on their online cost sheet for the aluminum block "available late 2018"
 
Is that the Bulldog now?
I'm serious about this, so any details about who offers aluminum blocks for wedge builds is appreciated.
As I stated in my previous post I used Indy products: Max block, 440-1 CNC ported heads, and single plane intake. I also used Molnar crank and rods.
Mike
 
Don't need that block or girdle. 650hp and 650 tq is no problem for a good builder. My rb made 615hp 625tq street driven.
 
I have a Muscle Motors built all aluminum 540 on an engine stand while I finish the body. It was spec'd as a mainly street engine but I have never fired it up. It was run and partially tuned at MMs. I have noticed Indy has raised their prices for the Max quite a bit.
Mike
As I stated in my previous post I used Indy products: Max block, 440-1 CNC ported heads
I wasn't able to discern that from your post. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
Don't need that block or girdle. 650hp and 650 tq is no problem for a good builder. My rb made 615hp 625tq street driven.
I respect that and the guys who check mark "agreed" but I am definitely going to use that exact cap and girdle system if I use a stock block.
 
I recognize no problem sounds like a waste of $$$.Best Machine engine will point you in a very good direction. Great guys they will ask you one question how fast do you want to go.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top