66 Charger - input if you have any?

[REcharge]

Does anyone know what pan I should order for this 66 charger? The engine we have must have came from a pickup not a charger because the sump is in the back. And it runs right into the steering linkage when we drop it down so we need a different pan.... When I started looking there are 2 pans, a 392 and 876? For the 360 engine.

And while we're on the subject of parts I might as well ask about the headers, anyone have a suggestion what to order there as well?

Thanks

 

[440 4 speed]

I think all 360 pans that were in the mid size Fury’s Monaco’s and 73-74 b bodies could work. A little out of my realm. Someone out there knows way more than I do about it.

 

[Speedbird]

66 and 67 typically don't rust in the trunk or the cowl.

Quarters right over the wheel arch, right in back and right in front.
Fenders at the dog leg.

The kicker- front frame rails between body and shock/torsion bar mounts and trans cross member.
Check those areas REAL GOOD, all the way around the frame sections.

I have seen the rear frame near the spring shackle rust out but that is not common.

Minor rust in the front floor boards is common right over the trans cross member and frame rail.
Usually doesn't get into the frame rail unless it's constantly wet.

If the car is from Georgia/Tenn I would think the cowl is more likely to have evil level hiding rust than the rails.
This 67 cowl had pinhole in the top right over the stand pipe.
The bottom was starting to pinhole rust in one or two places IIRC, but still solid enough to save it.

Floor tip on cars.
Use an ice pick to probe through the carpet.
Leaky wiper seals sometimes.

 

[Speedbird]

Hey thanks for that. What is the valve called name wise so I can find the diagram? Or if you have a good lead where to find it that would work too.

I didn't really look at the picture.
This car MAY just have a distribution block OR a combination valve OR a proportioning valve.
Check here.
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar-parts
Where are you in the brakes?
Is it a new master cylinder?
But do you have an air compressor?
This is the best thing I've found.

The "trick" is to aggressively push the peddle down while doing the sucking part and slowly letting the peddle back up.
This seems to do two things.
It seems to clear any debris in the system.
You will see this trash in the collection.
It will force any air pockets on through.


You can make one of these to match your master cylinder and it will prevent the fluid from splashing while you "pump" as I've described.
Stand pipe in the off side while working the other side.

 

[REcharge]

I didn't really look at the picture.
This car MAY just have a distribution block OR a combination valve OR a proportioning valve.
Check here.
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar-parts
Where are you in the brakes?
Is it a new master cylinder?
But do you have an air compressor?
This is the best thing I've found.
View attachment 923416

The "trick" is to aggressively push the peddle down while doing the sucking part and slowly letting the peddle back up.
This seems to do two things.
It seems to clear any debris in the system.
You will see this trash in the collection.
It will force any air pockets on through.


You can make one of these to match your master cylinder and it will prevent the fluid from splashing while you "pump" as I've described.
Stand pipe in the off side while working the other side.

View attachment 923418

We're in a temporary pause on the breaks. With the world going crazy our parts are slow to get here. Understandably so. We have good pressure on the front and we've ordered cylinders and the rear hose for the back. After we replace those we'll have a better idea of where we really are.

Thanks for the tip on the brakes we'll likely use it once we get the other pieces locked in place.

 

[REcharge]

If the car is from Georgia/Tenn I would think the cowl is more likely to have evil level hiding rust than the rails.
This 67 cowl had pinhole in the top right over the stand pipe.
The bottom was starting to pinhole rust in one or two places IIRC, but still solid enough to save it.

Floor tip on cars.
Use an ice pick to probe through the carpet.
Leaky wiper seals sometimes.

View attachment 923414

Thanks for the tips, I'll check those out. I don't think our floor has any problems it is solid from underneath. Unless you mean there could be an issue inside that wouldn't show from under the car...

 

[REcharge]

I think all 360 pans that were in the mid size Fury’s Monaco’s and 73-74 b bodies could work. A little out of my realm. Someone out there knows way more than I do about it.

I could probably order 1 based off of those. Why do you believe those will work vs something else?

 

[YY1]

I'm just saying that through my 35 year history with 66 and 67 B body cars and from owning half a dozen and evaluating many more as parts cars or potential purchases, that I don't find cowl rust to be a common problem.

I have seen more of them with frame rust between the spindle and firewall area than cowl rust.

I have less experience with 71-74 (about 15 years), but I have found that cowl rust is extremely common on those cars. It is so common, that it is the first place I look.

It is also common on 63-65 B and 66 and older A bodies.

 

[Tim Ziegler]

67 Charger, 273, 3 on the tree. Yes, there were combinations you didn't dream of

 

[YY1]

Until 1971, all small block B body cars with manual transmission were three speed column shift.

We had a member for a while with a 318 3 speed 67.

I'm not sure the 273 was available in any B body Charger.

 

[1danc]

If you can find a donor car from the early 70's (I used a 72 satellite I believe) - I changed over to front disc brakes using the spindles on out on my 66 Charger & 65 Coronet and took all the brake lines including valving etc., using those parts as my layout and updating to aftermarket parts switched to more modern aluminum master cylinder/brackets etc. available from mancini or summit , whoever you deal with , and made great improvement without a willwood conversion kit - I enjoyed using mopar parts & digging into differences in the models and what would work , then I could order new parts as I pieced it together with modern brakes, I'll be doing my 70 Coronet now, I just got it up on 4 tires to bring from storage these past few days and I'm excited to bring it back to the shop & go after it / Also , your frame does look great @ torsion bars , I'm not familiar with the small block parts fitting , I'm guessing it's similar to big block though & needs a center sump pan by your description of hitting steering linkage ! I'm happy for You- brings back good time memories - enjoy

 

[YY1]

"402" is the "go to" oil pan for big block B body cars.

72 spindles are rare as hens teeth these days.

IIRC you can get repro A/B/E disk spindles.

The next hardest part is the caliper brackets.

The rest of the parts are easy to get.

A tricky area is matching wheel cylinder/caliper bore size with M/C bore size.

 

[REcharge]

We're having a terrible time trying to get this 360 in the car. We went to an out of the way junkyard today full of old cars. There was a lot of everything but what we needed there sadly. Anywho the guy there said they made 318 big blocks...

Does anyone know how to tell if the car originally says 318 from the vin on whether it was a small or big block?

Furthermore old-man-junk-yard said that we might have to make our own mounts for it to work out because he said they used to cut out some of the frame and weld the pieces back in when he used to do it.

Does anyone have knowledge of how true that is or whether there's another way to do it properly. Thanks for the look and any advice

This is the motor mount support bracket we think would work with ours. But we're not sure that kind of price is justified especially if it's not going to work out.
https://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/66.72bBody.html

 

[Don Frelier]

A 66 Charger 318 would have been an "A" engine still a small block technically. They had a more complicated valve train and a wider angle between the bores in the block.
Your 360 is an "LA" engine. Hopefully someone else here can help with the motor mount differences as I have not made that swap.
These jobs are tough enough just replacing with like parts.
I have great respect for the guys that can go from small block to big block or even more so put in a modern hemi.

 

[440 4 speed]

I forget if your car is a 66. With our 67 Chargers , doesn’t matter, you can swap big and small blocks, no problem. Your 360 should just drop in. 66 should be the same I believe.

 

[REcharge]

I forget if your car is a 66. With our 67 Chargers , doesn’t matter, you can swap big and small blocks, no problem. Your 360 should just drop in. 66 should be the same I believe.

The problem we are having isn't whether it drops in, we need different motor support brackets. We need to find the right brackets for the 66 frame for the 360 motor.

It's possible it's just the difference between truck and car switch but we don't know for sure.

 

[YY1]

Small block brackets should be the same all the way to 1972.

However, the 273/318/340 bracket is different than the 360 on the driver's side.

The boss on the block was moved about 5/8 inch.

360 brackets are kind of hard to find.

Lots of folks use longer bolts and stack up either a lot of washers or a couple larger nuts or a spacer.

 

[REcharge]

Small block brackets should be the same all the way to 1972.

However, the 273/318/340 bracket is different than the 360 on the driver's side.

The boss on the block was moved about 5/8 inch.

360 brackets are kind of hard to find.

Lots of folks use longer bolts and stack up either a lot of washers or a couple larger nuts or a spacer.

Thanks

 

[dsd1967]

Your truck motor mounts are not the same as a b body. The b body mounts hug real close to the engine block and down below the block boss bolts. I don't have a picture handy but you should be able to google them

 

[dsd1967]

Something like this