Yours is 66 correct? Then it's just a round, single master cylinder. It's basically just a brass T I thought. That's why I questioned the guy talking about taking the sensor out, I'd never heard of that on a 66
Then, as far as I understand, that's just a simple brass T, no internal parts, been awhile since I looked at one tho, my driver is a 67
The single master cylinder should be removed and replaced with dual master cylinder 67 style. Just look up a 67 Charger on RockAuto and buy a new one they are inexpensive. The single master cylinder is a safety threat. You can buy the conversion block and lines on E-bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/190829483923
Any idea what the brake part would be called here I'm looking for the metal cable on the rear brakes that goes from the brake shoe to the adjuster Ok I will look into it thanks for the tip
IIRC those cables as well as a whole slew of individual drum brake rebuild parts are on rockauto.....cheap
...and I'll agree about upgrading to a dual master cyl. I'f you're redoing the brakes anyway including a new M/C the price is almost the same, but spent the extra $100 for the 67 style brass block kit.
I downloaded the manuals on MyMopar and printed out the important pages. There are service manuals and parts books. Here is the site: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Single or dual master cylinder should have a proportioning valve , your front brakes need to do more work than the rear so that splits up the pressure - so, you definitely need to install a dual master for safety and there is a power/non-power version - I used a MP aluminum upgrade model, they had all the adapters etc to change over - if you have a brake warning light, there would be a single wire plugged into a block in your brake system, that wire grounds the light if you lose pressure front or rear and the internal pin slides towards the leaking direction(to block the fluid for the other half of the brakes to still work) in moving it touches the sensor the wire is attached to turning the light on by grounding it and you can manually get in there and center it , it's got to be centered to open the flow back up to both directions - I've seen them broken or corroded as well and people can't get a good pedal "feel" - it's just another part of the brake system and needs to work properly, they get overlooked alot and I'm just trying to help - if you do an image search online , a good pic always helps - best of luck
Mine had them, possibility of late year build ? He has to check the proportioning valve though, it could be corroded and sticking, gotta have them brakes , the light switch was a quick way for me to make sure I had fluid going both directions, and would need to have it held @ center position when bleeding system , thx
Brake warning light was mandatory in New York State in 1966, also in some other states I believe. I have some that are still in the dashes.
Never heard of this one. Neither of my 66's have one and it doesn't appear on the schematics either. Maybe 67?
APOLOGY. I miss read the topic, I thought the topic was directed at the park brake warning light. Sorry.
We're waiting on some brake parts. So to be continued there... I'll try to put it in my head to get some good pictures of these from our car and come back with it. We hoisted the engine and transmission up and over.. the oil pan won't fit in so now we'll be stuck there also till we get the right 1 for it to fit.
Here's a couple pictures of the torsion bars to the frame. Looks to us like it has some type of undercoating on it. You can see some spots where it's not there and it's clean metal.
