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Wideband o2 for tunning

RobsRR

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I was considering buying a wideband o2 sensor/gauge to see how close my tune is. Can anyone offer any advise? Is it worth it rather than putting on a Dyno? I never used one. Any brands you like or dislike. Don't want to spend a ton. Thought it would be neat though.
 
I bought a Innovative LM2. But don't have it running yet. Several guys highly recommend it. It has the ability to record to help you time that way also.

PS I got the one with 2 O2 sensors so I have one in each side. Helpful with dual planes
 
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I bought a Innovative LM2. But don't have it running yet. Several guys highly recommend it. It has the ability to record to help you time that way also.
Ok I will look it up.
 
I had an Innovate LM1 and it was nice, outdated now.

Don't go crazy watching the data. A split second of rich or lean won't mess you up unless you're racing every weekend. Look at your plugs also.
 
I installed an AEM brand wideband (Summit sale) along with a vacuum gauge and a oil catch can. I am tuning a Hemi with a cross ram and two Holleys. After chasing my tail with the tune, the wideband really showed me how far off I'd been. I don't think you can go wrong sticking with a name brand. It's an aid like all the of the things I mentioned, but I think reading your plugs, if you have that skillset will get you there as well.
 
Just had a thought I have a Innova scan tool it's a few years old but was a good one at the time and does read air fuel has live data. I wonder if that can some how be used ?
 
I'm running an AEM as well. It was $156 + shipping after Thanksgiving. I like it and has definitely helped me tune, especially wide open throttle.
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I bought a Innovative LM2. But don't have it running yet. Several guys highly recommend it. It has the ability to record to help you time that way also.

PS I got the one with 2 O2 sensors so I have one in each side. Helpful with dual planes
I never thought of needing two for dual planes but it does make sense. I bought the single AEM for my 64' Polara and it's going to be running a Indy dual plane but i've cut down the divider wall about 3/4" and will most likely run as much spacer height as i can , probably no more than 1", i wonder if these mods will make the single reader ok to use?. IDK.
 
I have a couple of AEM's and like them a lot. Same style as threewood posted above.
 
I was considering buying a wideband o2 sensor/gauge to see how close my tune is. Can anyone offer any advise? Is it worth it rather than putting on a Dyno? I never used one. Any brands you like or dislike. Don't want to spend a ton. Thought it would be neat though.
Two different usages. The A/F meter will help you monitor the mixture during your actual driving conditions but should NOT be a substitute for keeping an eye on your plugs. (The gauge can be saying you're perfect but you wonder why it feels sluggish!) The dyno is good for a one-time tune and readout of the output of the engine, so if you have the money why not do both. Dyno time is obviously much more expensive, but keep in mind you'll need to poke a hole in the exhaust and weld in a threaded bung for the O2 sensor(all of which should be included with the gauge kit). I personally don't trust the wiz-bang clamp-on crap. I too have had good results with AEM but your experience may differ..
Some things to keep in mind once/if you get one--As others have said, don't get hung up on the gauge number. Most of our stuff often isn't happy or making the most power at the '14.7' reading. It takes tuning work to get it nailed at idle/cruise/WOT, then see what the gauge says when the plugs and performance are right, and tinker periodically to keep the number in that neighborhood.
 
Two different usages. The A/F meter will help you monitor the mixture during your actual driving conditions but should NOT be a substitute for keeping an eye on your plugs. (The gauge can be saying you're perfect but you wonder why it feels sluggish!) The dyno is good for a one-time tune and readout of the output of the engine, so if you have the money why not do both. Dyno time is obviously much more expensive, but keep in mind you'll need to poke a hole in the exhaust and weld in a threaded bung for the O2 sensor(all of which should be included with the gauge kit). I personally don't trust the wiz-bang clamp-on crap. I too have had good results with AEM but your experience may differ..
Some things to keep in mind once/if you get one--As others have said, don't get hung up on the gauge number. Most of our stuff often isn't happy or making the most power at the '14.7' reading. It takes tuning work to get it nailed at idle/cruise/WOT, then see what the gauge says when the plugs and performance are right, and tinker periodically to keep the number in that neighborhood.
Thanks for your knowledge and advise.
 
I'll be running an AEM 30-0310 with my MS3X - Was originally thinking of an Innovate LM2 but people convinced me to go with the AEM for my application - also they are about 10 minutes from the house in case I need help haha
 
Autometer sells one that matches their other gauges so if you already have Pro Comp gauges in your car you might think about a matching wideband from them. I had a large Autometer gauge panel in my Coronet for a while with a wideband as well as Tach, oil pressure, coolant temp and vacuum.
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Two different usages. The A/F meter will help you monitor the mixture during your actual driving conditions but should NOT be a substitute for keeping an eye on your plugs. (The gauge can be saying you're perfect but you wonder why it feels sluggish!) The dyno is good for a one-time tune and readout of the output of the engine, so if you have the money why not do both. Dyno time is obviously much more expensive, but keep in mind you'll need to poke a hole in the exhaust and weld in a threaded bung for the O2 sensor(all of which should be included with the gauge kit). I personally don't trust the wiz-bang clamp-on crap. I too have had good results with AEM but your experience may differ..
Some things to keep in mind once/if you get one--As others have said, don't get hung up on the gauge number. Most of our stuff often isn't happy or making the most power at the '14.7' reading. It takes tuning work to get it nailed at idle/cruise/WOT, then see what the gauge says when the plugs and performance are right, and tinker periodically to keep the number in that neighborhood.
Well said! 14.7 stoic is a pipe dream. My idle is 13.3 - 13.8 to get it to idle nice. Any leaner and it feels like it will stall. I can tune it pretty close by ear and using a vac gauge and tach but the reading lets me see what it is doing real time while driving.
 
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