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Concrete vs. Muscle Car Tires?

just have another set of old tires for storage , have seen unibodies sag from sitting on stands not the suspension .and overinflation will cause cracking .
 
I over inflate my tires during storage every winter. I start the car and warm it up completely every 2 to 3 weeks and drive it back and forth a little several times and park it in a slightly different position. They are bias ply, parked on concrete and I have never had an issue.
What do you mean by warning completely? Condensation takes longer to burn off than just warming to normal operating temperatures. If that is all you are doing it only creates more condensation. Running a dehumidifier would do the whole car more good.
 
just have another set of old tires for storage , have seen unibodies sag from sitting on stands not the suspension .and overinflation will cause cracking .

Wow, I had no idea. Unibody sag is not a good thing...
 
Not sure if the car FSM has the support locations for long term storage. Truck and van manuals do.
 
I recently replaced the front tires on my 67 due to age... I gave the old tires to my neighbor for their utility trailer as they had like 90% tread still..
They have not found a tire shop yet that will install these REALLY NICE 17 year old tires on their rims......View attachment 1060049[/QUOT
I recently replaced the front tires on my 67 due to age... I gave the old tires to my neighbor for their utility trailer as they had like 90% tread still..
They have not found a tire shop yet that will install these REALLY NICE 17 year old tires on their rims......View attachment 1060049
Joe, what size tires do you have on your car? Looks good. Was thinking about getting those wheels but in 17”
 
Ya if you put your stands on the rails behind the engine it looks like a nice solid place but open and close your doors
They don’t line up anymore they are harder to close that’s because the weight of the engine is pulling the a pillars forward
 
What do you mean by warning completely? Condensation takes longer to burn off than just warming to normal operating temperatures. If that is all you are doing it only creates more condensation. Running a dehumidifier would do the whole car more good.
I do warm up the engine completely. Then I put the car in gear forward and reverse several times, moving it a foot or two in both directions, pumping the brakes, switch on lights, operate directionals, etc.
I put heavy flexible exhaust hoses from a commercial garage connected to the exhaust and dump it out side when I do this. The hoses have a tapered end to fit snugly over my 3" exhaust pipes. I run it for at least 20 minutes, sometimes more. The hose is corrugated and when I disconnect them, I drain any condensation out side. Once the car is up to full temperature, I rev the motor several times. My aim is to keep everything lubricated. There isn't much more that I can do, except move to a warmer climate. Sometimes I jack up each wheel and 180 the tire positions. There isn't much room to move the car more than a couple feet. Believe me, the whole garage is nice and warm after I run it. The headers throw off a lot of heat. I am tempted to bring a chair and a six pack out with me and enjoy the sound and just oggle at the car. I also keep my exhaust pipes capped with cans to keep mice out. Those little bastards are a pest. I agree with your comment on creating more condensation, I just do the best I can in the time frame I have. I ain't got a dehumidifier. If I did, the freakin mice would probably nest in it, lol. I am open to any suggestions, but outside of hitting the lottery,(which would kill me from shock), that's what I have done for 10 years.:D
 
From another site about tires on concrete, FWIW

Ozone and UV are rubber's primary enemies.
Carbon-black is self-sacraficial and is the black that you get on your hands when handling tires.
The action of rolling the tire under load massages carbon black to the surface to continue protection.
Carbon Black is not an "issue"... it is added to rubber during manufacture (pure rubber is cream to white) and it's purpose (other than color) is to protect the rubber from UV and ozone.

Lack of use is the primary cause of sidewall and tread cracking, but poorly sealed concrete floors will leach caustic chemicals that are also not good for tires.
 
Another thing to add to that routine of engine running etc... is to turn the heater on and if it has air to run the a/c. This will circulate the coolant in the heater core and lubricate the seals in the a/c compressor. If you are running a Torque-Flite trans remember that the pump works in Neutral not Park.
 
Rubber is naturally an OFF white color?
That would be really strange to see tires in the natural color.
 
Another thing to add to that routine of engine running etc... is to turn the heater on and if it has air to run the a/c. This will circulate the coolant in the heater core and lubricate the seals in the a/c compressor. If you are running a Torque-Flite trans remember that the pump works in Neutral not Park.
That is an excellent suggestion. Unfortunately, there is no heater box, a/c or power steering in my car but they have been on my wish list for the full 10 years!:D
 
has anybody noticed they don't use rubber in tires anymore its all oil based compound you can tell by the smell inside a tire store just like the interior of a new vehicle they down right stink your points are all still valid maybe even more so now because these compounds don't last for as long as rubber I've got some 1930's model tires in my back yard that don't have cracks and still hold air cant say that for any I've bought in the last 30 years
 
Rubber is naturally an OFF white color?
That would be really strange to see tires in the natural color.

white-tires.jpg
 
Just want to thank everyone for all the helpful tips and thanks for taking the time to respond. Builder guy, you hit the nail on the head, I had a feeling that something might leach out of concrete. Live in Montana and don't drive the cars we care about much in Winter.
 
When I put mine to bed for the winter, I jack them up, to take the weight off the suspension, and tires, and block them under the frame.
I do the same. I was never certain it was necessary, but just seemed like the right idea. I have jack stands under the rear end, and have the front frame rails and K-member sitting on wood blocks.
 
I park my 05 SRT-10 on 4 pieces of 3/4" plywood all the time. Winter and summer. It doesn't get driven much (57,000 kms on it now) but after the winter, like others say, I can feel the flat spots for about 20 miles. Once the tires warm up, no issues.

IMG_2958.JPG
 
I do the same. I was never certain it was necessary, but just seemed like the right idea. I have jack stands under the rear end, and have the front frame rails and K-member sitting on wood blocks.
Never do this. At least I won't. I do too much welding, grinding, fabricating, painting etc in the garage. In case of fire, you can't push or drive the car/s out if needed to in a hurry.
 
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