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1970 Tubular K frame use a AJE or a QA?

johneich

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Both have free shipping, AJE is $485.00 and has no reviews at JEGS, QA is $620.00 has mixed reviews at Summit.

Thoughts? Anybody used one of these, what about the general quality of each company? I live in the middle of nowhere and have little chance of finding the stock 1970 only frame member.
 
I don't have any direct knowledge of either but I would say that QA1 has been doing Mopar stuff for a long time and have a pretty good rep. AJE seems to be centered on Mustangs/Fords and looks to be dabbling in Mopar. If it were me and I wanted a tubular K member, then I'd go QA1. That said, I am not a big fan of really any of them especially if you intend to drive the car hard but thats just an opinion, I am sure there are plenty of people who have and are using them without issues.
 
Really like mine on my 67. Perfect fit, and appears to be of good quality.

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I've been eyeballing the full QA1 setup recently...k-frame, upper and lower arms....maybe one day if I don't sell the car!
 
I'm a big advocate for QA1.

Full disclosure: Up till 2015 I was running a powder coating plant. We were running about $4.5 million in annual sales. At that point I retired. Prior to that, when QA1 was in the midst of bringing production back from China, we worked with them through their development work and ultimate production on a wide range of suspension parts. The owner of the company was the kind of guy once you've met and talked to a bit, you find yourself very, very impressed with him. He was a real, sincere, very sharp, no BS kind of person. Unfortunately he encountered health issues and died some time back. One of his kids took over the company, and continues to run a good show. The company I ran continues to powder coat their stuff today. My son works there and QA1 is one of his accounts.

QA1 had bought out someone who was marketing a mopar K member. I can't now recall who. But when they got into the project, they discovered some rather serious design and build issues and started over with a complete re-design. During this time, they borrowed a roller project 69 b body wagon from me for trial fitting, measuring, etc. A little while later they borrow my 69 Coronet (wanted a complete, running/driving car for final fit testing) and had it the whole winter. If you do some searching on line for QA1 k member replacement you'll find a pretty detailed marketing video which was shot while they were working with my Coronet (the car is orange).

They test fitted all combinations of OEM parts and their parts, including upper/lower control arms, torsion bar adjusters, strut rods and k member. The guys who worked on the car were real enthusiasts, sharp guys and very conscientious. They wanted to make sure an end user could combine whatever parts they wished without issue. When they were done I got to take my car home with their parts still installed, as payment for the use of my cars. I was quite impressed with the end result as well as their approach.

QA1 also works with people around the country on real world testing and feedback.
 
Thanks Guys, you are all great! the QA1 got Two Five star reviews and Two one star reviews on Summit. I am going to quote the two one star reviews and see if any of you can read these Guys minds, I will throw in my thoughts too.

1) Summit Racing Verified Purchase
QA1-52315
Mounting holes at rear way to large bolts supplied to short sterring box mount bolt to short sreeribg wheel was straight with old k member now is not without uneven tie rod adjustment low ground clearance

Me) Sounds like this guy ordered the wrong part?

2) Summit Racing Verified Purchase-
70 coronet SB manual steering
QA1-52315
Upgraded the font end with this with other new parts went to get it aligned at the dealership told me they wouldn't do it, ask why. Kid got in it and turn the wheel and you see from the steering pump to the motor that that whole frame flexes.

Me) I do not see how this could flex if the right part is properly installed?

I have done as much research as I can so far, looking for more help from you Guys,

J
 
The first review may be accurate but I often shrug off the words of someone too stupid to spell and write properly.
 
Three comments from here:

1) I'm with Kern on the first one regarding the quality of the response. From what I think he's describing, there are likely a number of factors in play, particularly if he is seeing low ground clearance. Don't know if he just replaced the k member and used his original (probably worn) control arms, if he disconnected the steering box from the column or from the drag link or properly adjusted the torsion bars after the conversion to name a few. There was no decrease in clearance or change in sitting attitude on my Coronet when they finished it. We did replace ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. when they were test fitting everything on my car. Let's face it, the cars do wear things out, particularly after this many years.

2) QA1 has a support line. I've been there and seen it in action. Give them a call and discuss your concerns.

3) There's always some debate about the inherent rigidity of a tubular steel frame vs the stock, stamped and welded K member. Some guys claim the tubing isn't up to the task.

If you've looked at a number of bare OEM K members over the years, you'd be shocked at how poorly some have been welded. The one that came out of my 69 was missing some welds completely.

I've seen the fixtures and the welding that goes into the QA1 k member. I've also seen their in house quality guys in action. You would be impressed.
 
I like the concept of a tubular k member, but if you reinforced the stock like i did what other advantage would you get? I see the bolt locations off the tubular piece and just cringe thinking this will support a Hemi in my 67 coronet..
 
I like the concept of a tubular k member, but if you reinforced the stock like i did what other advantage would you get? I see the bolt locations off the tubular piece and just cringe thinking this will support a Hemi in my 67 coronet..

The QA1 k member is lighter than the oem, so you'd see some weight savings.
 
The QA1 k member is lighter than the oem, so you'd see some weight savings.
I put the whole shootin match on my Bee last year and the alignment is dead nuts . Barely had to set the toe. Started out with about 4deg castor and .4- camber , went to almost 6deg castor and closer to -1deg camber tho. So I rocked with it. Drives real nice , FE feels more rigid too. I did use different hardware to mount the k frame .

IMG_0323.JPG
 
snakeoil: I am going from a 225 to a small block so the weight savings of the tubular frame may minimize the amount of front end parts I have to replace.

In any event, less weight on the front wheels is better?

If memory serves, Porsche used a transaxel and put the battery in the trunk and achieved 49/51% weight distribution. (Not that we can do that with our cars) Just saying less weight in front is better.

My battery tray is shot so I am thinking of putting my battery in the trunk.
 
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snakeoil: I am going from a 225 to a small block so the weight savings of the tubular frame may minimize the amount of front end parts I have to replace. All good ideas just not excited about tubular design with limited support around the tube holding the frame bolts. As far as frontvend parts wear you might have more wear not really sure. Option is use Moog problem solver parts.

In any event, less weight on the front wheels is better?

If memory serves, Porsche used a transaxel and put the battery in the trunk and achieved 49/51% weight distribution. (Not that we can do that with our cars) Just saying less weight in front is better.

My battery tray is shot so I am thinking of putting my battery in the trunk.
 
I have the RMS with coil overs in my 70 Challenger. Makes for nice big tube header clearance and I can run a flat bottom top fuel/funny car 10 quart oil pan on the street. It hangs about as low as much deeper trans pan. Both are higher than the headers.

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