69 RR with 505 and Holley Sniper
- Thread starter andyf
- Start date
A couple of ideas:
I silver soldered a couple straps to some copper tubing (steel tubing would be fine), drilled and tapped the intake to mount a sort of conduit to run the ignition, A/C, coolant sensor, and charging wires through. I also welded the bulk head connector hole shut and drilled a hole to run my FAST harness through. I'm also running front lighting under the right fender to conceal that harness.
Mike
I silver soldered a couple straps to some copper tubing (steel tubing would be fine), drilled and tapped the intake to mount a sort of conduit to run the ignition, A/C, coolant sensor, and charging wires through. I also welded the bulk head connector hole shut and drilled a hole to run my FAST harness through. I'm also running front lighting under the right fender to conceal that harness.
Mike
rmchrgr
Well-Known Member
I like the split loom stuff that comes with the Sniper. Several different diameters available from the usual vendors. You can zip tie it, harness tape it etc.
Here's the wiring in the trunk coming from the fuel pump and sender.
Made a bracket for the Hyperspark ignition box under the battery, you can kind of see it under the battery in the below pic. The box is on the inside, the connector is facing the front. There was not enough room with the power steering hoses occupying the same space. Initially I thought about running it inside but after a lot of back and forth, this seemed like the best place for it. The main ECU B+ wire and ignition box wire are fused right at the battery with inline blade fuse holders. This is a NAPA (labels removed) battery with top and side terminals. Having both top and side terminals turned out to be a good choice, keeps the Sniper connections separated from the main battery cable.
This was an early iteration of the wiring, does not look like this anymore but may give you some ideas.
This is how it ended up. I hate to say it but after so much trial and error, I pretty much gave up on trying to make it look real sanitary. If/when I take the engine out the car, I will re-do it. It's not bad I guess.
In this pic, you can see the B+ junction stud to the lower right of the bulkhead. I run the alternator sense wire to that with a jumper from the starter relay. I'm sure there are better ways of accomplishing this. The coil under the clutch master cylinder reservoir is for a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the dash, it will be gone when I get new gauges.
Hate to say it but unless you have a small block Camaro, the harness Holley provides really leaves a lot to be desired. When I rewired my car, I removed all unnecessary wires and at the same time incorporated the Sniper wiring into the new harness so it didn't stick out. That was a big project for which there was no instructions or guidance.
When incorporating the Sniper into the new harness, I used some empty cavities in the bulkhead connector for the switched 12V wires and the Hyperspark ignition trigger. Inside, these were wrapped into the dash harness and run directly to wherever they needed to terminate.
Basically I wound up re-pinning every single wire in their supplied harness. For example, the fuel pump relay is now under the dash, no way to do that if you just install it the way it comes. On the 10 pin connector I only wound up using two out of the ten wires so I have this giant bulky, connector hanging there with two little wires running out of it, I hate that. My coil is on the passenger side inner fender; with the ignition box under the battery, the supplied coil wires were too short, had to get longer wire and re-pin them to reach across the radiator support. And on and on.
When re-doing all the Sniper stuff I became real familiar with Metri Pack connectors. They were easy to work with. I ordered a bunch of things from EFI Connection, they carry a lot of Holley-specific parts including most of the terminals that are in the Sniper harness.They also have TXL wire which is really nice.
https://www.eficonnection.com/
Not sure if that's what you were looking for but there it is. If I was starting from scratch it would be much neater. I found it really hard to do it the way I envisioned it - there were too many compromises and instances where I had completely scrap an idea and go back to square one. There's only so much you can do with the engine and the dash installed. I will admit the wiring became tedious and I needed it to be done no matter what it looked like.
Here's the wiring in the trunk coming from the fuel pump and sender.
Made a bracket for the Hyperspark ignition box under the battery, you can kind of see it under the battery in the below pic. The box is on the inside, the connector is facing the front. There was not enough room with the power steering hoses occupying the same space. Initially I thought about running it inside but after a lot of back and forth, this seemed like the best place for it. The main ECU B+ wire and ignition box wire are fused right at the battery with inline blade fuse holders. This is a NAPA (labels removed) battery with top and side terminals. Having both top and side terminals turned out to be a good choice, keeps the Sniper connections separated from the main battery cable.
This was an early iteration of the wiring, does not look like this anymore but may give you some ideas.
This is how it ended up. I hate to say it but after so much trial and error, I pretty much gave up on trying to make it look real sanitary. If/when I take the engine out the car, I will re-do it. It's not bad I guess.
In this pic, you can see the B+ junction stud to the lower right of the bulkhead. I run the alternator sense wire to that with a jumper from the starter relay. I'm sure there are better ways of accomplishing this. The coil under the clutch master cylinder reservoir is for a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the dash, it will be gone when I get new gauges.
Hate to say it but unless you have a small block Camaro, the harness Holley provides really leaves a lot to be desired. When I rewired my car, I removed all unnecessary wires and at the same time incorporated the Sniper wiring into the new harness so it didn't stick out. That was a big project for which there was no instructions or guidance.
When incorporating the Sniper into the new harness, I used some empty cavities in the bulkhead connector for the switched 12V wires and the Hyperspark ignition trigger. Inside, these were wrapped into the dash harness and run directly to wherever they needed to terminate.
Basically I wound up re-pinning every single wire in their supplied harness. For example, the fuel pump relay is now under the dash, no way to do that if you just install it the way it comes. On the 10 pin connector I only wound up using two out of the ten wires so I have this giant bulky, connector hanging there with two little wires running out of it, I hate that. My coil is on the passenger side inner fender; with the ignition box under the battery, the supplied coil wires were too short, had to get longer wire and re-pin them to reach across the radiator support. And on and on.
When re-doing all the Sniper stuff I became real familiar with Metri Pack connectors. They were easy to work with. I ordered a bunch of things from EFI Connection, they carry a lot of Holley-specific parts including most of the terminals that are in the Sniper harness.They also have TXL wire which is really nice.
https://www.eficonnection.com/
Not sure if that's what you were looking for but there it is. If I was starting from scratch it would be much neater. I found it really hard to do it the way I envisioned it - there were too many compromises and instances where I had completely scrap an idea and go back to square one. There's only so much you can do with the engine and the dash installed. I will admit the wiring became tedious and I needed it to be done no matter what it looked like.
Yeah the Sniper harness isn't going to work. I've already taken it all apart and started to figure out how I'm going to connect things. The car won't have a heater so the ignition box will go on the inside firewall. The coil is mounted on the cylinder head. I'll connect IGN 1 and IGN 2 together and have them plug into the pink wires.
The car also has dual electric fans so those need to wired and it has a one wire alternator so that has to be hooked up. Looks like we'll keep the factory temp sensor as well as the factory idiot light for oil pressure. Car will get an accusump so that needs to be wired in also. And there is a line lock that needs to connected. The factory engine harness isn't going to work so I'll take it apart and salvage what I can.
The car also has dual electric fans so those need to wired and it has a one wire alternator so that has to be hooked up. Looks like we'll keep the factory temp sensor as well as the factory idiot light for oil pressure. Car will get an accusump so that needs to be wired in also. And there is a line lock that needs to connected. The factory engine harness isn't going to work so I'll take it apart and salvage what I can.
That's an amazing car and a job well done. I won't write a book here like on that other forum.
Suffice it to say I'm not alone in wanting to have that kind of power in a street/strip car with a manual transmission, and it's nice to see one that's so gorgeous too!
Suffice it to say I'm not alone in wanting to have that kind of power in a street/strip car with a manual transmission, and it's nice to see one that's so gorgeous too!
68Dart470
Well-Known Member
I could probably take 3-4ft of wire, if not more, off my O2 sensor cable. Not sure why so damn long considering they want it mounted at the bottom of the header. My concern is whether it would change the resistance at all.
Bladeruner69
Active Member
Andy,
Do you mind posting your cam specs? That is pretty radical lope in a 505.
Do you mind posting your cam specs? That is pretty radical lope in a 505.
Dakota Digital, maybe RTX series?
Was this a typo? O2 sensors are to be mounted above horizontal centerline to stop moisture accumulation.
Mike
68Dart470
Well-Known Member
Mis-spoke I guess. It's only at the header collector, not a mile down the pipe so no idea why the cable is so long. Guess maybe if you have a tunnel ram on top of a blower it'd be a little tight....
Comp Cams street roller, 260/266.
Correct, it is a Dakota Digital VHX dash insert. Nice piece that solves a bunch of issues with these cars since they didn't come with a good gauge package. It still isn't the greatest gauge package ever but at least you get all the info in the available space. The Dakota Digital also interfaces with the Holley Sniper so you can bring across information from the Sniper and display it on the dash.
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index...id=1164/category_id=679/mode=prod/prd1164.htm
YES! That looks like a good sized "data display" in the DD guage setup.
I bought 2 BIM-13-2 modules for my RTX DD guages, to display the left and right channels of my O2 sensor system. I was going to use that to eliminate the guage they supply with the O2 system, but it looks like I have to have the guage connected to pull data for that channel. The data for the other side of the exhaust comes off an inline module in the Innovate Motorsports system. Still, even with the rather nice looking guage on my dash, I can use the 2 modules that run that AFR data through the DD guages in order to accomplish the MAIN goal I had for doing all that, and that's to use my smartphone or tablet to display selected data from the DD system as a "remote dashboard". I think the AFR data will be a good tool to have when I'm under the hood tuning the 6bbl!
Hi Andyf, tried pm'ing you but your box is full. Was trying to get some info about another post you made a couple years back, and also interested in your 505 build. Would it be possible to make room in your inbox? Thanks, Jake
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