What would you pay for this 440 & parts?

[RockyPat]

Measure or get the block measured. Get it magged if standard and same for the heads. Lots of pieces to sell off for some dough. Me personally, I wouldn't use the reciprocating items. Boot them for a stroker. If the block is more than 30 over, the price dwindles quickly.

This is exactly what I am thinking. It sounds like a good idea in theory. Especially if the block is the standard bore size.

 

[RockyPat]

$262.50 tops if I needed the standard bore block.

Is this the scrap price? I am wondering because $262.50 is rather exact!

 

[RockyPat]

Look for stock motor. That way it dose not need to be bored too far. Went 20 over on a stock 383 to clean it up. Paid 400 plus shipping 150. My crank had one bearing race in bad shape. Motor guy said they rode the clutch. So had to find another one. Adding that 10 thou. over on the crank. All being said got almost 6 grand in the motor. New connecting road-valves and seat's. New cam. Lifters- push rods-Piston's. Ring set. It went on and on. So when getting part's like old with out having someone magnaflux the block and head's. You are looking at a risky buy.

I completely understand what you are saying. I think it would be very important for me to measure the block before doing anything to prevent a money pit from excess machining costs. Thanks for the comment!

 

[DeltaV]

Is this the scrap price? I am wondering because $262.50 is rather exact!

It's halfway between $250 and $275. I didn't want to suggest a low-ball offer, but I didn't want you to pay too much either.

 

[RockyPat]

It's halfway between $250 and $275. I didn't want to suggest a low-ball offer, but I didn't want you to pay too much either.

Now I get it! Lol. Thanks for looking out for my best interests!

 

[barbee6043]

Most parts cars sell for a total in parts for more $$$ than what the car sells for as whole.
Just because someone took it part just makes it a pile of greasy parts that you either want to build into a running motor or just sell it all off like you are a parts hawker!?
$500-600 but I am cheap according to my wife???

 

[Daves69]

I do not know about big beam rods and matching balancer. Are those items special?

You will need the matching balancer for the crank if it is cast and not forged. The yellow highlighted explains the HD rods (big beam).....

 

[1 Wild R/T]

You will need the matching balancer for the crank if it is cast and not forged. The yellow highlighted explains the HD rods (big beam).....
View attachment 1152743

And nobody wants them... They are heavier than an LY rod but not any stronger than an LY rod where it matters... Same small rod bolts, no extra beef around the big end... Just extra steel in the beam which isn't the weak spot...

 

[barbee6043]

I agree. The 6 pac rod is heavier but not really any stronger. That has been the word for 3 decades.

 

[RockyPat]

Most parts cars sell for a total in parts for more $$$ than what the car sells for as whole.
Just because someone took it part just makes it a pile of greasy parts that you either want to build into a running motor or just sell it all off like you are a parts hawker!?
$500-600 but I am cheap according to my wife???

I get what you’re saying. Worst case scenario would be scrapping the items that nobody seems to want. The block and 727 are definitely items that can be used at the very least I’d say without having looked at them in person yet.

 

[RockyPat]

And nobody wants them... They are heavier than an LY rod but not any stronger than an LY rod where it matters... Same small rod bolts, no extra beef around the big end... Just extra steel in the beam which isn't the weak spot...

I agree. The 6 pac rod is heavier but not really any stronger. That has been the word for 3 decades.

Thanks for the explanation you guys. I did not know this. So LY rods would be the ones to get?

 

[ckessel]

For the money you might spend on refurbishing the rods, resizing/shot peening/bolt replacement, you'll be close to what a set of new rods run. Plus the new rods are lighter, have no load cycles on them yet. With the others, how many miles are on them? Just a thought.

 

[RemCharger]

They look skinny enough to be LYs .
The balancer looks right for the crank.
Pics just not quite good enough to say 100%

 

[RockyPat]

For the money you might spend on refurbishing the rods, resizing/shot peening/bolt replacement, you'll be close to what a set of new rods run. Plus the new rods are lighter, have no load cycles on them yet. With the others, how many miles are on them? Just a thought.

I agree with you on this. No sense in spending almost the same money to refurbish an old, worn part when new ones are available.

 

[RockyPat]

They look skinny enough to be LYs .
The balancer looks right for the crank.
Pics just not quite good enough to say 100%

Good observations. I have to agree that the pictures are not the greatest. The seller probably did his best to fit them all in the picture. Lol

 

[MOPAR MARTY]

$1000? More ?
There's a lot of sellable goodies there

$1000 ? ha,ha i cabn buy any 440 that clay has for 300-500 bucks each (they need to be gonr tyrough but thats a complete motor intake to oil pan

 

[Fury Man Van]

I can see both sides of the spectrum. There are a lot of parts that could be worth some money, but at the same time they are all old and greasy.

Anyone think a 74 Charger cast crank 440 would be a good builder? Depending on condition of course. I would like to use the stock rotating assembly if possible.

If you are building a wheel standing car then look for a forged crank. There is nothing wrong with a cast crank source (440 Source)

 

[RockyPat]

Wow that's pretty steep. I have a buddy seat up for grabs, $100 plus shipping if anyone wants it. It's black and includes the front bracket. DM for pics

If you are building a wheel standing car then look for a forged crank. There is nothing wrong with a cast crank source (440 Source)

I agree. I am not looking for anything crazy. I would like a nice street performer, not a race car. I appreciate your comment.