Yep... just trying to make a point against all of these "my car won't start after it's parked for a week" posts. Just utter nonsense.....
What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
- Start date
If anyone ever does their own custom wiring.....a label machine like my Brother E550W is a great asset.
Every wire in my looms has a heat shrink label, and I just made a cable wrap for the Brake Sentinel light.
These printers are targeted at Electricians, but there all sorts of different models.. .and downloadable graphics.
Every wire in my looms has a heat shrink label, and I just made a cable wrap for the Brake Sentinel light.
These printers are targeted at Electricians, but there all sorts of different models.. .and downloadable graphics.
Years ago I had a 64 galaxy 500 would not start never understood why. Well got a one way check valve and the problem was gone. Never had to do anything to my dodges just hit the gas one time and cranked it up.
Got the door jams primed on the 62, pulling the rest of the interior next.
Went to a show and picked up a couple pistons.
Pulled much of the interior on the 62, floors are really solid. Started sanding…
Laid in a few more wires and started terminating under the dash. This is a custom-made harness but is following the FSM diagram. Those junctions that are marked are traditionally a welded type of crimp joint wrapped in mastic type tape. I have changed that up for insulated studs that are easily accessed and tested.
I am also being the Industrial Electrician here and using some good old Din Rail and terminals for other small joints - like the turn signal junctions. I don't like the way all those wires are just crammed together with a bit f solder and tape and floating around. I also changed up the fuse block for two 6-way blocks. I discovered a way to link the fuse supplies on the blocks and can now replicate the functionality like OE. It also gives me a couple of spares for the stereo and accessory sockets.
This exercise has also given me a chance to revisit a few items like lampholders that could use a little di-electric grease inside. Found that one front turn signal had a bit of water in it....so it is now cleaned out, dried, and greased up. Works and looks like new again. The local Rip-off shop had the correct lamps with offset pins, so I grabbed a few spares also.
Pics below are my own home-made fuse linking and stud bus for main power distribution. There will be fuses installed on those when the circuits are connected.
I am also being the Industrial Electrician here and using some good old Din Rail and terminals for other small joints - like the turn signal junctions. I don't like the way all those wires are just crammed together with a bit f solder and tape and floating around. I also changed up the fuse block for two 6-way blocks. I discovered a way to link the fuse supplies on the blocks and can now replicate the functionality like OE. It also gives me a couple of spares for the stereo and accessory sockets.
This exercise has also given me a chance to revisit a few items like lampholders that could use a little di-electric grease inside. Found that one front turn signal had a bit of water in it....so it is now cleaned out, dried, and greased up. Works and looks like new again. The local Rip-off shop had the correct lamps with offset pins, so I grabbed a few spares also.
Pics below are my own home-made fuse linking and stud bus for main power distribution. There will be fuses installed on those when the circuits are connected.
There's nothing worse than stacking up a bunch of lugs on the starter relay stud. 
mr. b
Well-Known Member
installed the new headliner still have some wrinkles to heat gun out what a job that was
I’ve been chasing an exhaust leak on the little red convertible. Finally had a chance to get it on the lift and zero in on the problem. The heat stove flapper had been removed from the passenger exhaust manifold and the holes were never plugged. It was loud, the car ran like ****, and I was fed up. So what did I do? Used a small amount of JB Weld and plugged the holes with the manifold still on. First time I’ve ever used that stuff, and I’m not one to cut corners, but after 8 hours I started it up. Purrs like a kitten, and runs a whole lot better. Kinda want to redo the entire exhaust now, but the car may be part of the deal to rescue the Charger I just found. We shall see, but if I keep it, I’ll be doing either the Waldron Commando exhaust, or duals. Since I’m the guy who converts the single pipe cutout crossmember for dual exhaust, maybe I should use one of my own product.
No...I'll check into that. I use heat shrink and Scotch 33 HV vinyl tape.
Also been using the non-adhesive loom wrap.
Triplegreen500
Well-Known Member
Liquid tape is nice...till you have to remove it. You have some nice busses, and good stand-offs; my only real 'concern' area would be the wire feeding all the spade connectors to the fuse block. I wouldn't worry about the spades themselves necessarily (depends where you put the assembly), but maybe wrap the wire that they branch off of, or put it all in a box to protect it from outside interference. It doesn't look like they're going to short against each other, that's nice work - I'd only worry about something external shorting across one or two of them to ground. And you really only have to worry about individual isolation on the output side, since they all feed from the same source.
I'd box 'er up, and mount somewhere that nothing should interfere with it. That way you can disassemble for repairs as needed in the future.
I'd box 'er up, and mount somewhere that nothing should interfere with it. That way you can disassemble for repairs as needed in the future.
I did take steps by wrapping it first in 3M 1755 Temflex Friction tape, then in non-adhesive wrap with a small Zip-tie to prevent unravelling.
I take your advice on board and will look into a little more insulation. Not much room where I have space....so that's why it looks small.
After all, I am a certified cable tie technician .....
Nice work Roger!
You have way too much time on your hands. I too have a Brother label machine, it's great!
When I re-wired my 64 D100 from scratch I used 2 of these. I used 1 for 12v constant and the other switched.
There were no fuse boxes on that relic.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7825316
Thanks. I also bought one of these a while ago, but it is just one single Bus line.....and I wanted to split the power as per the FSM. I have spent a lot of time looking for the right parts over the past year or so. I think what I have is as close as I will find without stumbling upon OE parts.
I'll post pics shortly of what I have so far. Right now it looks light a grenade went off in a bowl of spaghetti.
Getting a bit more done...still looks like organised chaos....
I had to go and collect a small label I was having made.....asked the guy (Grant) if he take a look at my knob while I was there.
He duly obliged....and I am really pleased with the results.
Laser etched.....straight over top of the original faded out wording. Looks just like new sitting behind the wheel (or it will when the wheel goes back on)
Just another one of those tiny details that take time to get around to doing...or finding the right person to help.
I had to go and collect a small label I was having made.....asked the guy (Grant) if he take a look at my knob while I was there.
He duly obliged....and I am really pleased with the results.
Laser etched.....straight over top of the original faded out wording. Looks just like new sitting behind the wheel (or it will when the wheel goes back on)
Just another one of those tiny details that take time to get around to doing...or finding the right person to help.
Glad you got your knob taken care of Roger. I try not to let my knob go too long without attention.Getting a bit more done...still looks like organised chaos....
View attachment 1534009
View attachment 1534010
I had to go and collect a small label I was having made.....asked the guy (Grant) if he take a look at my knob while I was there.
He duly obliged....and I am really pleased with the results.
Laser etched.....straight over top of the original faded out wording. Looks just like new sitting behind the wheel (or it will when the wheel goes back on)
Just another one of those tiny details that take time to get around to doing...or finding the right person to help.
View attachment 1534011
Triplegreen500
Well-Known Member
I'm avoiding the knob-polishing comment....
Similar threads
