451Mopar
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It's a slippery slope, First an AFR gauge and next thing your installing EFI 
Wideband o2 for tunning
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themechanic
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You could install the Carb Cheater and just let the computer adjust the AFR automatically for around $500. It works on any carburetor.
I have not used one but it sounds like a winner for a novice and it's quite a bit cheaper than a fuel injection conversion.
Thunderhead289 sells them.
I have not used one but it sounds like a winner for a novice and it's quite a bit cheaper than a fuel injection conversion.
Thunderhead289 sells them.
I'm reading lots of bad reviews about AEM, with many people saying what they bought worked incorrectly or quit working within a month or two of purchase.
Hit me with some other brand recommendations please.
Hit me with some other brand recommendations please.
themechanic
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See post #2
Belvedere408
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AEM 30-300 4.7 out of 5, 163 reviews on Summit Racing. Pretty damn good to me
9 one-star reviews on the first 2 pages on Summit - most saying they broke or the sensor didn't work. The review average may be 4.7, but I always read the first 3 most recent pages to see what bad reviews are mixed in with the good. Hoping to find an alternate that is universally liked if possible.
themechanic
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See post #2
Belvedere408
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I also have a used innovate that I got from a friend. I just haven't used it myself. Said it worked great.
thanks for this. I have watched Thunderhead289 videos before, but wasn't aware of this. I checked out the Carb Cheater online this morning and it looks pretty cool. I'm going to email him and see if it auto-tunes well if driving through changing elevations. My car was already dyno tuned for WOT, but I'd like to tweak things some more for the entire rpm range.
wow, that Innovate LM-2 is EXPENSIVE.
themechanic
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But the AEM isn't.
BDnFL
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Ordered AEM 30-0300 today.
how did it go? Try it yet?
I have 2 AEM's on my Dart , I swear that AFR's do not like carburetors. They don't like rich conditions, it kills the sensors. They run anywhere from $30. to over $100. apiece. Have not really helped me tune my Sixpack. I have never gotten them sorted out.
Good luck with your choice, seems like some people are doing something right with them.
Good luck with your choice, seems like some people are doing something right with them.
BDnFL
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Half way through the install. I had to wait to get bung welded.
Hopefully complete by this week.
Reading with interest.
I just wanted to interject some info into this thread. First, I use AEM and Innovate without issue. As long as they are placed correctly in the pipe, and wired correctly, they work fine.
Second, most guys really don't understand how or what a wideband does. They get caught up in numbers of what is bad and what is good according to what consensus is rather than what's going on in the engine. First and foremost, an Oxygen sensor senses OXYGEN, not hydrocarbons(fuel). So when it is reading rich, that's because there is not much oxygen left in the exhaust passing by the sensor. Lean, or above 14.7, is the opposite, an abundance of oxygen is passing by the sensor.
Most of us have large camshafts with lots of duration and overlap to get that 'sound' everyone loves. Well, that sound is unburnt air and fuel coming out of the exhaust valve. So in that situation, what does the sensor read? Lean, that's what. It can't see unburnt fuel. I have so many guys come in to get on the dyno and their plugs are black or very dark, and they stink to high heaven, all because they try to idle a huge camshaft at 13 to 1. What is that like in actuality if you could see the fuel and oxygen quantities? It would be pig rich. Most narrow lsa, long duration cams idle well at 15 to 16 to 1. This requires adjusting idle screws and timing to accomodate it, but as it leans out, it usually raises the idle up. These are generic examples, just so you don't get caught up in staring at a gauge you don't have a good grasp of what it's showing you. If you think your car is dialed in and seems to idle well and cruise decent, but your plugs are pretty dirty after 1k miles, think again.
Second, most guys really don't understand how or what a wideband does. They get caught up in numbers of what is bad and what is good according to what consensus is rather than what's going on in the engine. First and foremost, an Oxygen sensor senses OXYGEN, not hydrocarbons(fuel). So when it is reading rich, that's because there is not much oxygen left in the exhaust passing by the sensor. Lean, or above 14.7, is the opposite, an abundance of oxygen is passing by the sensor.
Most of us have large camshafts with lots of duration and overlap to get that 'sound' everyone loves. Well, that sound is unburnt air and fuel coming out of the exhaust valve. So in that situation, what does the sensor read? Lean, that's what. It can't see unburnt fuel. I have so many guys come in to get on the dyno and their plugs are black or very dark, and they stink to high heaven, all because they try to idle a huge camshaft at 13 to 1. What is that like in actuality if you could see the fuel and oxygen quantities? It would be pig rich. Most narrow lsa, long duration cams idle well at 15 to 16 to 1. This requires adjusting idle screws and timing to accomodate it, but as it leans out, it usually raises the idle up. These are generic examples, just so you don't get caught up in staring at a gauge you don't have a good grasp of what it's showing you. If you think your car is dialed in and seems to idle well and cruise decent, but your plugs are pretty dirty after 1k miles, think again.
BDnFL
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The points in your reply is what started me down the path of an Afr. As a new rebuild I smelled what I thought was new paint burning off was actually gas.
I’m learning as I’ve never had an engine that wasn’t to factory specs as now I have a stroked 440.
Pic is from wiping inside of exhaust pipe.
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The Bosch O2 sensors are not that expensive from some sellers on Ebay. I put one on each side
of my exhaust system and will unplug and switch them for each side. I think I paid around $30.00
for an exact replacement on EBay. I used the Holley Sniper O2 gauge and kit and added the extra
sensor. The sensor that came with the Holley kit was clearly marked "Bosch" with the model number.
Don't go and buy a high priced sensor for the other side!
of my exhaust system and will unplug and switch them for each side. I think I paid around $30.00
for an exact replacement on EBay. I used the Holley Sniper O2 gauge and kit and added the extra
sensor. The sensor that came with the Holley kit was clearly marked "Bosch" with the model number.
Don't go and buy a high priced sensor for the other side!
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