A833 4 speed second gear trouble

[NascarFastcar!]

I’ve noticed that some rebuild kits don’t have new brass syncro rings. I’ve only worked on a Muncie and a Toploader but I couldn’t imagine tearing a transmission apart and not replacing the brass rings. But if it’s a syncro issue you probably will have a grunch noise or grinding trying to get it in gear.

Haha that is a very fair statement. Building a 70 super bee gets pretty expensive at 24. Sometimes the immaturity tells me to “ just run it”

 

[NascarFastcar!]

That's still a fairly good amount of HP for stock mounts. Keep in mind that the HP rating for a 383 wasn't anywhere close to 550. A Hemi box wasn't much different but was a bit better to handle more HP. Chain it down and see it it makes any difference.

Thank you, I will give that a try. I will prevail against this temperamental transmission if it’s the last thing I do haha!

 

[matthon]

If it were a bit stuck between third and second, wouldn’t the linkage bind and shifter, or on acceleration wouldn’t I partially have a gear or grinding?

On mine, it would not fully come out of 2nd, going to 3rd shifter would get stuck, handle looked to be about the neutral position.

This was a spanking new shifter, rods, arms.

I would have to crawl underneath and whack it out of 2nd.

No grinding at all.

I had another trans recently rebuilt, when it arrived it was the first thing I checked.
Before I installed I sent the gearshift levers to Brewer's.

I've posted about this numerous times. Not sure if it's chronic, but certainly overlooked, and definitely falls under the kiss principle.

 

[matthon]

I’m just using plain old oem engine mounts. Is that a no no?

No need for a torque strap. Engine twists, it doesn't just rise on the driver side.

Drill a hole through your mounts, stick a bolt in there with a lock nut, do not tighten all the way.

Stay away from the fancy poly engine mounts, they suck big time.
Poly mount is OK for transmission.

 

[NascarFastcar!]

That's still a fairly good amount of HP for stock mounts. Keep in mind that the HP rating for a 383 wasn't anywhere close to 550. A Hemi box wasn't much different but was a bit better to handle more HP. Chain it down and see it it makes any difference.

Thank you, I will go ahead and order

On mine, it would not fully come out of 2nd, going to 3rd shifter would get stuck, handle looked to be about the neutral position.

This was a spanking new shifter, rods, arms.

I would have to crawl underneath and whack it out of 2nd.

No grinding at all.

I had another trans recently rebuilt, when it arrived it was the first thing I checked.
Before I installed I sent the gearshift levers to Brewer's.

I've posted about this numerous times. Not sure if it's chronic, but certainly overlooked, and definitely falls under the kiss principle.

I will definitely have to play with the adjustment a bit more? I’m just not sure which gear or adjustment would prevent me from going into second. I very much so appreciate the advice.

 

[jeepthrills01]

Suggestion.....Standard Hurst shifter adjustment.

1. Remove rods from trans and shifter
2. Find an allen wrench to snugly fit into the shifter adjustment slot/hole at the top of the mechanism.
3. Verify all shifter "fingers" are aligned, and not out of round. Install rods on shifter.
4. Move rods forward and backward to verify there is no slop/movement between rod and shifter.
5. check if the trans side attachment pin and hole in the lever to see if it has any slop.Also visually look at the hole in the trans lever...verify it's not egg shaped.
6. Install and again apply forward and rear ward force to the shift rod. If there is no slop, egged out holes or damaged pins...adjust and install the rods.
7. Don't forget to remove the allen wrench after it's all adjusted.
8. Test drive.
If it's still not right...pull the side cover.

Best of luck...we are all hoping it's an easy one for you.

Edit: and yeah...add 1 solid motor mount..drivers side.

 

[NascarFastcar!]

Suggestion.....Standard Hurst shifter adjustment.

1. Remove rods from trans and shifter
2. Find an allen wrench to snugly fit into the shifter adjustment slot/hole at the top of the mechanism.
3. Verify all shifter "fingers" are aligned, and not out of round. Install rods on shifter.
4. Move rods forward and backward to verify there is no slop/movement between rod and shifter.
5. check if the trans side attachment pin and hole in the lever to see if it has any slop.Also visually look at the hole in the trans lever...verify it's not egg shaped.
6. Install and again apply forward and rear ward force to the shift rod. If there is no slop, egged out holes or damaged pins...adjust and install the rods.
7. Don't forget to remove the allen wrench after it's all adjusted.
8. Test drive.
If it's still not right...pull the side cover.

Best of luck...we are all hoping it's an easy one for you.

Edit: and yeah...add 1 solid motor mount..drivers side.

Thank you, I will do just that. This shifter seems to be a universal shifter. I purchased it from an older Mopar buddy of mine. When I go to adjust the linkage with the Allen wrench my rods do not reach my linkage. I have had to connect them normally and make adjustments to shift into each gear without that method. Another thing to mention is, there is slop where the adjustment connects to the shifter. What I mean by slop is I can grab the shifter arm and push it a bit forwards and pull it a bit backwards, is there supposed to be any bushings?

 

[padam]

On mine, it would not fully come out of 2nd, going to 3rd shifter would get stuck, handle looked to be about the neutral position.

This was a spanking new shifter, rods, arms.

I would have to crawl underneath and whack it out of 2nd.

No grinding at all.

I had another trans recently rebuilt, when it arrived it was the first thing I checked.
Before I installed I sent the gearshift levers to Brewer's.

I've posted about this numerous times. Not sure if it's chronic, but certainly overlooked, and definitely falls under the kiss principle.

I’ve had problems with this for 30 years. I have a fairly new set of trans levers but was missing too many shifts last year. Found slop in the rectangular slots again. I was in a hurry so I peened the holes in the the shifter levers. It worked.

Not a permanent solution but nothing seems to be. I bang on mine pretty hard though.

 

[ckessel]

Thank you, I will do just that. This shifter seems to be a universal shifter. I purchased it from an older Mopar buddy of mine. When I go to adjust the linkage with the Allen wrench my rods do not reach my linkage. I have had to connect them normally and make adjustments to shift into each gear without that method. Another thing to mention is, there is slop where the adjustment connects to the shifter. What I mean by slop is I can grab the shifter arm and push it a bit forwards and pull it a bit backwards, is there supposed to be any bushings?View attachment 1917998

View attachment 1917999

I was going to ask if you have the 6 bushings, steel ones are best, plus the correct retainer clips installed?
https://www.holley.com/products/dri...nents_and_accessories/pit_packs/parts/3327302