NascarFastcar!
Active Member
Haha that is a very fair statement. Building a 70 super bee gets pretty expensive at 24. Sometimes the immaturity tells me to “ just run it”
A833 4 speed second gear trouble
- Thread starter NascarFastcar!
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NascarFastcar!
Active Member
Thank you, I will give that a try. I will prevail against this temperamental transmission if it’s the last thing I do haha!
matthon
Well-Known Member
On mine, it would not fully come out of 2nd, going to 3rd shifter would get stuck, handle looked to be about the neutral position.
This was a spanking new shifter, rods, arms.
I would have to crawl underneath and whack it out of 2nd.
No grinding at all.
I had another trans recently rebuilt, when it arrived it was the first thing I checked.
Before I installed I sent the gearshift levers to Brewer's.
I've posted about this numerous times. Not sure if it's chronic, but certainly overlooked, and definitely falls under the kiss principle.
matthon
Well-Known Member
No need for a torque strap. Engine twists, it doesn't just rise on the driver side.
Drill a hole through your mounts, stick a bolt in there with a lock nut, do not tighten all the way.
Stay away from the fancy poly engine mounts, they suck big time.
Poly mount is OK for transmission.
NascarFastcar!
Active Member
Thank you, I will go ahead and order
I will definitely have to play with the adjustment a bit more? I’m just not sure which gear or adjustment would prevent me from going into second. I very much so appreciate the advice.
jeepthrills01
Well-Known Member
Suggestion.....Standard Hurst shifter adjustment.
1. Remove rods from trans and shifter
2. Find an allen wrench to snugly fit into the shifter adjustment slot/hole at the top of the mechanism.
3. Verify all shifter "fingers" are aligned, and not out of round. Install rods on shifter.
4. Move rods forward and backward to verify there is no slop/movement between rod and shifter.
5. check if the trans side attachment pin and hole in the lever to see if it has any slop.Also visually look at the hole in the trans lever...verify it's not egg shaped.
6. Install and again apply forward and rear ward force to the shift rod. If there is no slop, egged out holes or damaged pins...adjust and install the rods.
7. Don't forget to remove the allen wrench after it's all adjusted.
8. Test drive.
If it's still not right...pull the side cover.
Best of luck...we are all hoping it's an easy one for you.
Edit: and yeah...add 1 solid motor mount..drivers side.
1. Remove rods from trans and shifter
2. Find an allen wrench to snugly fit into the shifter adjustment slot/hole at the top of the mechanism.
3. Verify all shifter "fingers" are aligned, and not out of round. Install rods on shifter.
4. Move rods forward and backward to verify there is no slop/movement between rod and shifter.
5. check if the trans side attachment pin and hole in the lever to see if it has any slop.Also visually look at the hole in the trans lever...verify it's not egg shaped.
6. Install and again apply forward and rear ward force to the shift rod. If there is no slop, egged out holes or damaged pins...adjust and install the rods.
7. Don't forget to remove the allen wrench after it's all adjusted.
8. Test drive.
If it's still not right...pull the side cover.
Best of luck...we are all hoping it's an easy one for you.
Edit: and yeah...add 1 solid motor mount..drivers side.
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NascarFastcar!
Active Member
Thank you, I will do just that. This shifter seems to be a universal shifter. I purchased it from an older Mopar buddy of mine. When I go to adjust the linkage with the Allen wrench my rods do not reach my linkage. I have had to connect them normally and make adjustments to shift into each gear without that method. Another thing to mention is, there is slop where the adjustment connects to the shifter. What I mean by slop is I can grab the shifter arm and push it a bit forwards and pull it a bit backwards, is there supposed to be any bushings?
padam
Well-Known Member
I’ve had problems with this for 30 years. I have a fairly new set of trans levers but was missing too many shifts last year. Found slop in the rectangular slots again. I was in a hurry so I peened the holes in the the shifter levers. It worked.
Not a permanent solution but nothing seems to be. I bang on mine pretty hard though.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I was going to ask if you have the 6 bushings, steel ones are best, plus the correct retainer clips installed?
https://www.holley.com/products/dri...nents_and_accessories/pit_packs/parts/3327302
dvw
Well-Known Member
Make sure all the parts are in the reverse detent as well. Other wise there can be interfernce with the reverse fork. I left the ball out once. Couldn't get it to shift in 2nd.
Doug
Doug
NascarFastcar!
Active Member
I will send photos of my levers today. Maybe you guys will see something I don’t.
NascarFastcar!
Active Member
That’s a game changer, I had no idea they had these. I will put them in tonight. I found a pretty good deal on Amazon. Same day delivery
https://a.co/d/bLqkcbm
NascarFastcar!
Active Member
I will check for the spring and detent ball!
jeepthrills01
Well-Known Member
Looking at that picture....proper adjustment looks unattainable. I'd call Brewers or Passon with the numbers on the levers or atleast measurments and the shift "levers" (the little bolt onto tranny sheetmetal squares) ...and the shifter part number. See what they recommend.
My WAG is a new linkage kit. Rods, adjusters, tabs and shifter bushings.
CKessel...you know right were I was about to send him...didn't you! Lol.
My WAG is a new linkage kit. Rods, adjusters, tabs and shifter bushings.
CKessel...you know right were I was about to send him...didn't you! Lol.
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That looks like an OEM Mopar/Hurst shifter since it lacks shift stop bolts. Mine was fitted with standard Inland shift rods w/o bushings and transmission levers and it was pretty sloppy. I’m not sure if this is the way they were built though - with Inland rods and transmission levers. The reverse lever was an odd ball one too. Again I’m not sure if this is the way Mopar did it or if my car was Bubba’d sometime in the past. I bought a Hurst rod/lever kit with bushings to put on mine and then used the steel bushings. At least I did on the 1/2 and 3/4 rods. The reverse shifter lever had a small hole that was too small for the rod, much less a bushing. I ended up turning the trans end of the rod down in diameter until it fit in the reverse shift lever hole. My shifter assembly is now much tighter and slicker than when I started.
Have you verified the shifter mounting plate is for a b body?
Select by Category - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists
www.brewersperformance.com
NascarFastcar!
Active Member
Okay so here is the verdict. I now have all gears. The shifting linkage bushings helped a ton. Where I thought there was no play in adjustment without them was false. With them I was able to get a true feeling of adjustment and properly adjust them. Getting it into reverse is still sticky. I will play with the adjustment to see if I can make any difference. Secondly my z bar was at a funky angle causing the throw out bearing to not properly return. I remedied this by running a bolt and locknut to bring the z bar in and to the proper position. Can provide photos if needed. Also, last but not least. The weight of the gear oil. I’m running cheap synthetic stp 75w90 gear oil. I will switch over to sta lube 85w90 gl4 gear oil and see how much of a difference it makes. So out of all of this I made these junk levers work, but i definitely need the right levers. A problem I will get to later haha
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