1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades

[RSMS]

That would be interesting….. i could never do that on my GTX but I have thought about doing something similar on a different project I have. I agree the dual snorkel looks cooler and I’ve wondered why the 440 cars didn’t use them and went with the trap door instead.

 

[ckessel]

You might want to read this.
Magnum Force Suspension - Took My Money

 

[RR Fan Dan]

You might want to read this.
Magnum Force Suspension - Took My Money

Ruh Roo Shaggy. Thanks, You just saved me a **** ton of aggravation. I wanted QA1 but they don’t make them for 73-74. Magnum Force was the only place I found them. Guess it’s back to re build the OEM suspension. Thanks again.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Any opinions on this for the rear?

4-Link MOPAR Triangulated Coilover Rear Suspension System

Designed for use with Mopar 8.75-inch and Ford 9-inch differentialsRequires weldingComes in Matte Black powder coat Looking for brakes to complement your suspension upgrades? Check out our

freakride.com

 

[WileE]

Yeah, seriously. I’ve dealt with enough rust to know I’m not doing that again. Thirty years in the hobby will do that to you. Maybe someday I’ll find the right 73-74 rr, but it’s not looking good on that front. Any of the rust free ones are so expensive of an ask that it’s basically the same price as a 68-70 b body or even an e body. I can’t justify doing that. Not to mention other brand cool cars or a pre war car I’d like to give a try.

I also think you might be surprised at the rust free cars out there that are cheaper than fixing a rusty one.

Well, I started bangin' metal in 1975. And the rot was already there. Especially in the northeast, rust-free cars are extremely rare.

 

[HawkRod]

Guess it’s back to re build the OEM suspension.

On my 70, I have a basically stock suspension with a few tweaks. It actually handles pretty well. This is what I did:
* Polyurethane pivot shaft bushings for the lower control arms. These take a beating, so you want something strong.
* Polyurethane busings in the sway bar. You want your sway bar to apply force IMMEDIATELY when going around a curve, not after rubber bushings have been compressed.
* A firm Feel stage 2 box to reduce the Mopar power steering sloppiness.
* A sector support kit to keep the bottom of the steering box shaft from flexing during turns
* Revised upper control arms that provide more caster.

Besides the above, everything else is stock.

On your 74, you also have the rubber isolators that go between the K member and frame, as well as at the torsion bar mounts and leaf springs. On my 73 Road Runner, I deleted mine on my rear axle by getting different springs and fought with a driveline vibration for years until I figured it out. If it were me, I'd try to replace the rubber front and torsion bar bushings with polyurethane to make it more solid. There are no easy solutions to remove the rear bushings that I know of - that has to be custom work to the best of my knowledge.

Good luck!

 

[ckessel]

With some ingenuity, Detroit Speed, Art Morrison, Heidt's, Speedway Motors could be possibilities. DS and SM have units in various widths that you may be able to figure out how to mount. And they use their stuff on the road, autocross, Optima Speed Challenge etc. Way more HD compared to the Stang2 based offerings from a couple of the popular companies people like to use. QA1 recently picked up Speed Tech out of Utah. They have Mopar offerings. Also Schwartz, Roadster Shop and Morrison do full frames. Something to price compare. How much for a front clip and rear setup compared to a full frame with all. Full frame would be a good option if your floors and inner structure is toast.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

With some ingenuity, Detroit Speed, Art Morrison, Heidt's, Speedway Motors could be possibilities. DS and SM have units in various widths that you may be able to figure out how to mount. And they use their stuff on the road, autocross, Optima Speed Challenge etc. Way more HD compared to the Stang2 based offerings from a couple of the popular companies people like to use. QA1 recently picked up Speed Tech out of Utah. They have Mopar offerings. Also Schwartz, Roadster Shop and Morrison do full frames. Something to price compare. How much for a front clip and rear setup compared to a full frame with all. Full frame would be a good option if your floors and inner structure is toast.

Thanks, I’ve looked at all those places and talked to a few and they only offer up to 1972 and it won’t work. QA1 was my first choice.

 

[ckessel]

Yeah, yours has the subframe like a Camaro. Thats why I was thinking one along that line. Might need to stare at one then look at yours while having a brew or two.

 

[68BabyBlue]

Well, I started bangin' metal in 1975. And the rot was already there. Especially in the northeast, rust-free cars are extremely rare.

I learned all the trouble spots during the early 70s, patching up our family's daily drivers to get them through Pennsylvania state inspections. One reason I was able to snag my current GTX was that the seller couldn't prove it had been restored with NOS sheet metal. I told him if he put it on the national auction circuit, the lack of restoration photos would hold it back. I didn't care about photos, because I was one of maybe five living people who knew the real story behind how a winter driven PA GTX ended up rust free. My car is a complete freak, but proves it can happen.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Front items pressure washed im about to straighten some area's up

Mirror side how it should look.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Welded a bolt and washer to air hammer attachment to get other area from the back side with torch.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Inside the fuel tank looks rust free that's good

 

[RR Fan Dan]

 

[RSMS]

Inside the fuel tank looks rust free that's good
View attachment 1942623View attachment 1942624View attachment 1942625

I wish I could find an original tank like that. One of the very few non assembly line pieces I’m missing on my 73. My tank was repaired when it went off the road in the late 80’s and they ruined it. Luckily I guess because it never got put back in or driven again. I’m restoring a 93 (crazy as it’s almost 33 years old, wow) Toyota 4runner now and its tank is destroyed due to ethanol sitting in it.

 

[ckessel]

View attachment 1942629View attachment 1942630View attachment 1942631View attachment 1942632

View attachment 1942633

View attachment 1942634

View attachment 1942635

Kinda like the pile of pieces I removed from the 72 Challenger I'm working on.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

I wish I could find an original tank like that. One of the very few non assembly line pieces I’m missing on my 73. My tank was repaired when it went off the road in the late 80’s and they ruined it. Luckily I guess because it never got put back in or driven again. I’m restoring a 93 (crazy as it’s almost 33 years old, wow) Toyota 4runner now and its tank is destroyed due to ethanol sitting in it.

April 1972-1973 Dodge / Plymouth B-Body OE Finish Steel Gas Tank CR10

Steel Tank. Fits: 4/72-73 Dodge and Plymouth B Body

www.autocityclassic.com

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Here's a good one the upper ball joint has been welded to the control arm. That's a no-no!