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1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades

That would be interesting….. i could never do that on my GTX but I have thought about doing something similar on a different project I have. I agree the dual snorkel looks cooler and I’ve wondered why the 440 cars didn’t use them and went with the trap door instead.
 
Any opinions on this for the rear?
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Yeah, seriously. I’ve dealt with enough rust to know I’m not doing that again. Thirty years in the hobby will do that to you. Maybe someday I’ll find the right 73-74 rr, but it’s not looking good on that front. Any of the rust free ones are so expensive of an ask that it’s basically the same price as a 68-70 b body or even an e body. I can’t justify doing that. Not to mention other brand cool cars or a pre war car I’d like to give a try.

I also think you might be surprised at the rust free cars out there that are cheaper than fixing a rusty one.
Well, I started bangin' metal in 1975. And the rot was already there. Especially in the northeast, rust-free cars are extremely rare.
 
Guess it’s back to re build the OEM suspension.
On my 70, I have a basically stock suspension with a few tweaks. It actually handles pretty well. This is what I did:
* Polyurethane pivot shaft bushings for the lower control arms. These take a beating, so you want something strong.
* Polyurethane busings in the sway bar. You want your sway bar to apply force IMMEDIATELY when going around a curve, not after rubber bushings have been compressed.
* A firm Feel stage 2 box to reduce the Mopar power steering sloppiness.
* A sector support kit to keep the bottom of the steering box shaft from flexing during turns
* Revised upper control arms that provide more caster.

Besides the above, everything else is stock.

On your 74, you also have the rubber isolators that go between the K member and frame, as well as at the torsion bar mounts and leaf springs. On my 73 Road Runner, I deleted mine on my rear axle by getting different springs and fought with a driveline vibration for years until I figured it out. If it were me, I'd try to replace the rubber front and torsion bar bushings with polyurethane to make it more solid. There are no easy solutions to remove the rear bushings that I know of - that has to be custom work to the best of my knowledge.

Good luck!
 
With some ingenuity, Detroit Speed, Art Morrison, Heidt's, Speedway Motors could be possibilities. DS and SM have units in various widths that you may be able to figure out how to mount. And they use their stuff on the road, autocross, Optima Speed Challenge etc. Way more HD compared to the Stang2 based offerings from a couple of the popular companies people like to use. QA1 recently picked up Speed Tech out of Utah. They have Mopar offerings. Also Schwartz, Roadster Shop and Morrison do full frames. Something to price compare. How much for a front clip and rear setup compared to a full frame with all. Full frame would be a good option if your floors and inner structure is toast.
 
With some ingenuity, Detroit Speed, Art Morrison, Heidt's, Speedway Motors could be possibilities. DS and SM have units in various widths that you may be able to figure out how to mount. And they use their stuff on the road, autocross, Optima Speed Challenge etc. Way more HD compared to the Stang2 based offerings from a couple of the popular companies people like to use. QA1 recently picked up Speed Tech out of Utah. They have Mopar offerings. Also Schwartz, Roadster Shop and Morrison do full frames. Something to price compare. How much for a front clip and rear setup compared to a full frame with all. Full frame would be a good option if your floors and inner structure is toast.
Thanks, I’ve looked at all those places and talked to a few and they only offer up to 1972 and it won’t work. QA1 was my first choice.
 
Yeah, yours has the subframe like a Camaro. Thats why I was thinking one along that line. Might need to stare at one then look at yours while having a brew or two.
 
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