• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

My season took an abrupt halt

My friends Mark, John , and Justin stopped by. 4 1/2 hours later the engine and trans were out and the engine was tore down. It was the #7 rod bolt that broke. That in turn broke the #7 piston, pin, rod, bent #8 rod, block, and oil pan. They are all scrap. The crank is nicked but looks repairable. 6 piston and rods assys look perfect. 7 rod bearing look perfect. #7 bearing is just bent, not heated at all. Lifters, cam, pushrods, heads (it did lightly tag the #7 [intake) willful be usable. The thought is new block and pan. New 4.500 pistons, could get only two 4.530 and have them coated but that doesn't make much sense. Either new rods or 2 new rods and all new bolts.

20260614_163624.jpg


IMG_20260614_161444.jpg


IMG_20260614_161558.jpg


IMG_20260614_161545.jpg


IMG_20260614_161538.jpg


20260614_162040.jpg


IMG_20260614_161528.jpg
 
Sorry Doug, I know how hard you work to enjoy this.
You've done everything as well as possible and still get a failure.
Especially so early in the season.
 
Ouch!
Are you gonna consider an aluminum block replacement? I remember reading that you thought it would be one way to get lighter. Along with figuring how to get weight off the rear of the car too.
 
Why do you think the rod bolt broke?
 
ouch that sucks,,maybe run the new motor on a 9.90 super gas type index , alot easier on parts and it could last forever ...
 
Ist pass yesterday. Right at the 1/2 shift. Then a huge vibration, killed it and pulled to the side. These pieces were picked up from the track. The small piece probablly shows the block may be in real trouble. My bet is the #5 rod bolt broke. Pulling it out today.
Doug

View attachment 2051195
DANG! Rod and Block pieces? That really sucks!!
 
And what post #26 said: any thoughts on why the bolt broke?
 
Over the winter it was apart. The bolts were reused as it had 375 runs. Some bracket guys do that in a year. Everything was cleaned. Bolts were torqued by the torque angle method per the instructions. Extreme high pressure lube #3 was used per the instructions. An electronic torque wrench was used and torques recorded were in the ball park. Rod bolt stretch was measured as well and was in spec at .0064" for both bolts on this rod.
Doug
 
D.
Live to race another day.
Obviously I'm not glad that it happened at all, but glad that it happened downstairs rather than upstairs at speed. If I can help by putting eyes on any parts in this part of the country, just let me know. Bill Mitchel block, Indy block in your future? Iron or aluminum?
 
My friends Mark, John , and Justin stopped by. 4 1/2 hours later the engine and trans were out and the engine was tore down. It was the #7 rod bolt that broke. That in turn broke the #7 piston, pin, rod, bent #8 rod, block, and oil pan. They are all scrap. The crank is nicked but looks repairable. 6 piston and rods assys look perfect. 7 rod bearing look perfect. #7 bearing is just bent, not heated at all. Lifters, cam, pushrods, heads (it did lightly tag the #7 [intake) willful be usable. The thought is new block and pan. New 4.500 pistons, could get only two 4.530 and have them coated but that doesn't make much sense. Either new rods or 2 new rods and all new bolts.

View attachment 2051387

View attachment 2051388

View attachment 2051389

View attachment 2051390

View attachment 2051391

View attachment 2051392

View attachment 2051393
That royally sucks about the block...

Good luck & happy parts hunting...
 
Good news.First I found a replacement Mega blockvery resonable. If it sonic checks thats what it's getting. If not Todd Marsh has aluminum blocks available. Talked to Tom Molnar. He though the crank would be repairable after seeing it. He has rods in stock as well. My plan is to copy my old oil pan and build a new one. That leaves ordering pistons, rings, Jesel belt and a few rod bearings.
Doug
 
Over the winter it was apart. The bolts were reused as it had 375 runs. Some bracket guys do that in a year. Everything was cleaned. Bolts were torqued by the torque angle method per the instructions. Extreme high pressure lube #3 was used per the instructions. An electronic torque wrench was used and torques recorded were in the ball park. Rod bolt stretch was measured as well and was in spec at .0064" for both bolts on this rod.
Doug

Thanks Doug. No doubt in my mind that your methods are anything less than the best.

So is the conclusion that the failure is likely the natural end-of-life for the bolt? We’re these 220,000 or 260,000 psi tensile bolts?

Thanks
 
Good news.First I found a replacement Mega blockvery resonable. If it sonic checks thats what it's getting. If not Todd Marsh has aluminum blocks available. Talked to Tom Molnar. He though the crank would be repairable after seeing it. He has rods in stock as well. My plan is to copy my old oil pan and build a new one. That leaves ordering pistons, rings, Jesel belt and a few rod bearings.
Doug
Happy to hear you’re able to get another block. I would love to see you get an aluminum one though, and be in the 8s all the time from losing all the weight off the front end. Just saying hahah
 
Happy to hear you’re able to get another block. I would love to see you get an aluminum one though, and be in the 8s all the time from losing all the weight off the front end. Just saying hahah
That was my thought as being an opportunity to be a consistent sub 9 sec ride and removing a lot of guess work adding and subtracting weight! Just motor and suspension tunning - you know the KISS method!!!
 
Would Aluminum's shift and heat dispersion be an issue for consistency though? You guys know me on the weight tip loss, but this animal of a car is different from others in the way it makes the rounds. There's not much in the rear where weight can get its walking papers, but I could be wrong about all of this.

I do agree, that less mass takes less task and makes for less mess.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top