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wire color/identity on 74' ignition switch.

L

levicah

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Ok, I'm going crazy. I need to splice into, or jump the "switched" battery 12 V coming from the steering column harness key ignition. RED BROWN BLUE BLACK Are my narrowed down options. The pin goes red, red, orange (small wires), red, brown, blue, black, yellow. (large wires)
so, red is the hot battery feed going to the switch, straight from the battery. Always hot.
This is for a 74' Ply. Satellite. Roadrunner uses same schematic.

There are two 8 pin connectors on the column. Red brown blue and black are thicker leads in the larger 8 pin connector.

This is for a new 12 gauge line carrying switched 12 volt battery feed to new ignition.

Despite others help, this seems to be the most accessible place. The bulkhead connector looks scary, and the fuse box doesnt seem to have a terminal behind it I can identify or just jump. Fuse box, battery on the left, accessories on the right, otherwise numbered and unmarked.

Any help would help, I'm not good at this. A ignition key switched, 12 gauge, battery lead is what I need.
Thanks as always. remember, I cant see my ign. switch terminals or their identity. Can I grab it at the ignition relay on the firewall?
 
Thik wires.
Red... 12 volts from Batt/Alt circuit
Black... output to Acc side of fuse box
Blue... output to Run circuit
Brown... output to coil, just to bypass the ballast while cranking
Yellow... starter relay ( on 74, actually to interlock system first and interlock bypass THEN to starter relay )

Thin red wires... ign key sensor to the warning key in buzzer.. orange, shifter light

Fuse box got two power busses ( embosed male packard terminals ) underneath the fuse box rows on front face. They are one from BATT circuit, the other one from ACC circuit... which will be cut while cranking thought. They are visible and labeled

Underdahs harness got several extra power sources in a bullet kind terminals too, molded in rubber coming to feed 3 plugs, from cluster lighting source ( orange ), door jam switch ground ( black on yellow wire ), Acc source ( yellow on tan wire ), and batt source ( Pink wire on red or black mold ). There is also a RUN circuit source on a blue wire with a female packard terminal plug.

Locations:
Around front speaker area: door jam ground and batt
Around brakes brackets assembly: Acc and Run wire
Around AC-Heater control: cluster lighting feed


The other 8 pins plug is turning switch

There is not any extra source to get starter relay signal from anywire except splicing straight to the wires, but if you really need this source, need to know what is for, because the interlock system can disturb on this. 74s got duplicated this circuit into yellow and yellow traced black wires. But these are only hot while cranking
 
Last edited:
Nacho-RT74 said:
Think wires.
Red... 12 volts from Batt/Alt circuit
Black... output to Acc side of fuse box
Blue... output to Run circuit
Brown... output to coil, just to bypass the ballast while cranking
Yellow... starter relay ( on 74, actually to interlock system first and interlock bypass THEN to starter relay )

Thin red wires... ign key sensor to the warning key in buzzer.. orange, shifter light

Fuse box got two power busses ( embosed male packard terminals ) underneath the fuse box rows on front face. They are one from BATT circuit, the other one from ACC circuit... which will be cut while cranking thought. They are visible and labeled

Underdahs harness got several extra power sources in a bullet kind terminals too, molded in rubber coming to feed 3 plugs, from cluster lighting source ( orange ), door jam switch ground ( black on yellow wire ), Acc source ( yellow on tan wire ), and batt source ( Pink wire on red or black mold ). There is also a RUN circuit source on a blue wire with a female packard terminal plug.

Locations:
Around front speaker area: door jam ground and batt
Around brakes brackets assembly: Acc and Run wire
Around AC-Heater control: cluster lighting feed


The other 8 pins plug is turning switch

There is not any extra source to get starter relay signal from anywire except splicing straight to the wires, but if you really need this source, need to know what is for, because the interlock system can disturb on this. 74s got duplicated this circuit into yellow and yellow traced black wires. But these are only hot while cranking
Click to expand...

Thank you very much! This is to power a HEI distributor...So, the "run" or blue wire is the line I want? Also, I'd love a easier source, but I dont understand the bullitt terminal locations...are these loose ends and will the circuit take a 12 gauge being hooked up to it? So far, you mentioned the yellow relay wire as well...but I dont tap that...Right? Just the blue run wire Right?

Thanks again!
 
the brown off the ballast is the hot start and then switches to blue in the run position. you need to tie them together and run to + on the coil. also make sure you have battery voltage in both the start and run position. I'm doing this myself and I found the 40 year old ignition switch was only putting out 8 v in start and wouldn't fire the hei where it was enough to fire the electronic, so I had to order a new switch
 
WP29440SE said:
the brown off the ballast is the hot start and then switches to blue in the run position. you need to tie them together and run to + on the coil. also make sure you have battery voltage in both the start and run position. I'm doing this myself and I found the 40 year old ignition switch was only putting out 8 v in start and wouldn't fire the hei where it was enough to fire the electronic, so I had to order a new switch
Click to expand...

Yeah, my HEI has the coil on it and some type of ignition module inside...it just wants 12 volts, switched, from the battery. They recommend 12 gauge, so that leaves out using the original ballast wires or bypassing it.

OR, are you saying cheat with the smaller ballast wires and jump the ballast ? Is your coil separate? Do you need a control box? My hei is all one unit with one male blade terminal for 12 volts, and a tach outlet.
 
I have an external coil , so I am going to go right off the ignition switch connector with the brown/ blue, essentially bypassing everything and going straight to the coil. I am still thinking about getting a complete ready to run , but for now I'm going with the module using my electronic distributor.
 
WP29440SE said:
I have an external coil , so I am going to go right off the ignition switch connector with the brown/ blue, essentially bypassing everything and going straight to the coil. I am still thinking about getting a complete ready to run , but for now I'm going with the module using my electronic distributor.[/QUOTE

Well wait...sounds exactly what I am attempting to do? sort of. you speak of 2 wires, I have one terminal on the distributor. The manuf. says run 1 line from "ign" at the ignition switch...is that the run circuit? I can only splice into the proper colored wire as it exits the steering column...which wire is pure switched 12v straight from the battery??
Click to expand...
 
You could add a relay and signal it with the blue wire-very low current draw to the relay pull-in coil. Then run a battery hot from the starter relay and out from the relay to supply the HEI power.
Mike
.
 
Guys, the deal is simply jump out ( on whatever way you choose ) the ballast resistor! Unless the resistor is still needed, which is not on this case.

When using the HEI module but not the full assembly, the deal is diff and is just to replace the stock ECU with the AC-Delco module. This will require keep the ballast and the job will be just at ECU side
 
Last edited:
Nacho-RT74 said:
Guys, the deal is simply jump out ( on whatever way you choose ) the ballast resistor! Unless the resistor is still needed, which is not on this case.

When using the HEI module but not the full assembly, the deal is diff and is just to replace the stock ECU with the AC-Delco module. This will require keep the ballast and the job will be just at ECU side
Click to expand...

Done deal!! thanks again!

How much mechanical advance do HEI distributors come set at typically?
 
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