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1977 lean burn 440 and $1800 budget

Bcamp69 said:
Funny you say that. I initially wanted to take this route for this year so I called Summit a couple days ago and asked for a cam recommendation. The guy said he couldn’t make a recommendation worth purchasing for a low compression 440. I told him I believe the engine is currently somewhere around 8.0:1 (google research based guess on my behalf). He said pistons pistons pistons, gotta get your compression up above all else.
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IMO, sounds like a pretty smart SUMMIT guy to me ?
That said,
If it's a good running Engine ? IMO probably best just left "as is" and installed minus the lean burn obviously, versus, ANY Cam swap/bolt on parts contemplated on the low compression for bottom end characteristic.... just say'in.... the factory cam is probably as "good as it gets" down low ?
 
At 54k miles. Pull the timing chain cover and pan. Check bearings and timing chain. Lap the valves, new seals and matching springs. Used T quad if you have carb skills with the stock intake. If not any vacuum secondary Holley, AFB, or Eddy carb. Headers and 2 1/2" exhaust. Rebuilt factory distributor and ignition box. Summit cam or Comp 268H. Want to spend more? Performer RPM or Holley Street Dominator intake. Look for used. Even more $? Aluminum heads , again look for used. the bore and hone is out of the budget right know. I'd use the torque converter from the 383 motor as well. But it will need a B&M off set balance cast crank flex plate. Many years ago I built a stock piston 360 with the Summit ring, bearing, timing chain, cam kit. Ball honed stock 4 barrel intake, lapped valves ect. Bang for the buck motor. Ran great for many years, excellent power with 3.23 gear.
Doug
 
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dvw said:
At 54k miles. Pull the timing chain cover and pan. Check bearings and timing chain. Lap the valves, new seals and matching springs. Used T quad if you have carb skills with the stock intake. If not any vacuum secondary Holley, AFB, or Eddy carb. Headers and 2 1/2" exhaust. Rebuilt factory distributor and ignition box. Summit cam or Comp 268H. Want to spend more? Performer RPM or Holley Street Dominator intake. Look for used. Even more $? Aluminum heads , again look for used. the bore and hone is out of the budget right know. I'd use the torque converter from the 383 motor as well.
Doug
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We can spend all day splitting hairs on the details, but IMO, this is the path.
 
Depending on how much you’re willing to do yourself, and what your skill level is....... the “re-ring”, mild cam upgrade path could be done for very close to your $1800 budget....... unless you find issues in the bottom end that require a visit to the machine shop.
Then...... the sky is the limit.

Rings, bearings, gaskets, timing set, cam/lifter kit, valve springs, used intake, decent carb.

Many years ago(before it was my job and I was just a guy playing with cars) I used to do that type of job pretty often.
They always turned out pretty well I thought.
 
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If I go with a a new rotating assembly, what should I expect machine costs to be? I’m looking at 440 source forged rods, pistons, and crank.

Bore, line bore?, freeze plugs, cam bearings, I want it clean and ready for paint so tanked?, what else am I missing here? Expected total cost.

I just can’t bring myself to sticking that motor in my car as is.
 
Bcamp69 said:
If I go with a a new rotating assembly, what should I expect machine costs to be? I’m looking at 440 source forged rods, pistons, and crank.

Bore, line bore?, freeze plugs, cam bearings, I want it clean and ready for paint so tanked?, what else am I missing here? Expected total cost.

I just can’t bring myself to sticking that motor in my car as is.
Click to expand...

You're missing about 60 items. Cost about $10,000. Unless you need things like headers, exhaust, torque converter, radiator, fan, tranny rebuild...., it will be more. You can do it for less, but once you step down the rabbit hole and the associated dollars for a full rebuild, it truly becomes difficult for most people to not get caught-up in the "....well, I've already spent this much, I might as well do/get/buy this......". And truthfully, as helpful and knowledgeable folks on this forum can be, more often than not you'll be advised to do more, more, more.
 
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My build started out a lot like yours. 73 low compression 440 some idiot put a Torker 2 on with a 500 cfm AFB. Plan was to put an Edelbrock RPM intake, Summit 6400 cam and FiTech EFI with a fresh coat of paint. Wife talked me into pulling the heads, just to check. The ridge in the bore sealed my fate. I'm doing a build thread here, you can check it out if interested. Bottom line is it needed pistons, aluminum heads and tons of other small stuff. I'm at 7k and counting. Had I known I would probably have gone rebuilt/crate 440. I found one with a hemi grind cam and a 1 year warranty for just under 3k last year. But this way I know what I have and should get 450'ish hp on pump gas.
 
Put a Hughes whiplash cam into it made for low compression I have one of my sons truck 360 sounds good and runs very good put a new valve springs and performer RPM intake
 
It’s off to the engine builder on Monday. Gonna use cast crank and rods if they’re okay. Adding forged pistons which he says should make close to 9.4:1 depending on the particular head. I’ll be adding aluminum heads in the near future.

I’m sure I’ll use the performer rpm intake and likely purchase rpm heads or trickflows, but at least it’ll have capable pistons in it when I’m ready. Possibly 700-800 cfm carb (still have some research to do in the department). That stuff can be done with engine in the car.

I just want it to cruise country highways real nice and occasionally be able to let er rip. Wish me luck. I’m pretty excited.
 
I’m not looking for a show piece so I’ll save some money with all the polished, billet, pretty stuff (at least I think that will save some). Ignition I’ll keep simple I hope, I’ve seen some people tout the performance capabilities of the old plainjane distributors/ignition systems.
 
Bcamp69 said:
It’s off to the engine builder on Monday. Gonna use cast crank and rods if they’re okay. Adding forged pistons which he says should make close to 9.4:1 depending on the particular head. I’ll be adding aluminum heads in the near future.

I’m sure I’ll use the performer rpm intake and likely purchase rpm heads or trickflows, but at least it’ll have capable pistons in it when I’m ready. Possibly 700-800 cfm carb (still have some research to do in the department). That stuff can be done with engine in the car.

I just want it to cruise country highways real nice and occasionally be able to let er rip. Wish me luck. I’m pretty excited.
Click to expand...

The piston-head combination is important. Let us know the specifics of what you plan on doing there. The specific piston manufacturer and part number and which cylinder head is key to maximizing the build. Let the folks on here help on that one.
 
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BSB67 said:
The piston head combination is important. Let us know the specifics of what you plan on doing there. The specific piston manufacturer and part number and which cylinder head is key to maximizing the build. Let the folks on here help on that one.
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Certainly will. I appreciate all the advice I can get. I think he said the 9.4:1 is with the 452 heads which I believe are 88cc if my research is correct. So if in the future I choose a smaller cc head I can increase the compression ratio but not really in danger of losing compression. Help me out here if I’m wrong.

So much advice and many options/routes to choose from I think in the end I’ll be most satisfied increasing the compression.
 
Cam, Intake, Headers, Carb:

Holley 3310 = 348.95
Holley Throttle Extension Bracket = 10.57
Summit Headers + Gaskets & Hardware = 182.99
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake = 297.95
Valley Tray & Intake Gaskets = 23.99
Summit K6401 Cam & Lifters = 120.99
Timing Set = 49.99
Timing Cover Gasket, Seal, & Pump Housing Gaskets = 13.99
Permatex Ultra Grey RTV = 5.99
Permatex Aviation Sealer = 5.99
Cam Assembly Lube = 17.99
(4x) Brake Cleaner/Engine Degreaser = 23.96
(2x) Hemi Orange Paint = 11.98
Painters Tape = 3.58
(2x) Wix 51515 Oil Filters = 17.98
6qts of Comp Break-In Oil = 41.94
6qts of VR1 = 37.99

1216.82 x 1.07 Indiana Sales Tax = $1302
 
Awesome breakdown man. I have hooker headers on the numbers 383 in the car, reckon they’ll fit?

I was also planning to use my edelbrock 1806 650cfm from the 383 also in the short term. I have springs and rods for it if I need to do some tuning.

I’ll need a distributor 383 distributor isn’t gonna fit. Anyone have any suggestions thoughts on this (what parts do I need to source) will the coil from the 383 work?

Lokar kickdown cable and throttle cable.

If I use the 727 that’s in the car which flexplate do I use? Are they interchangeable between 440/383? Will the flexplate on the 440 bolt to the torque converter that’s in the car where the 383 was or should I put the 727 (allegedly freshly rebuilt) in that came with the 440 I bought. It was in a 78 new yorker.
 
20181107_174318.jpg
I have a nice NUVI 2000 blower for a 440, complete set up. Belt, blower, mounting plates, ducting, blower hat, all pulleys etc. Cheapest way to 100 plus horse, without taking the motor apart. Ideal for a 7 to 1 motor. PM me if interested. Set up for the cast crank balancer. I had put an AFB Carb on for this pic.
 
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Any 440, even a lean burn one, can impress with very few changes. I wouldn't worry about pistons. Assuming the bottom end is good, swap to a bigger (reasonable) cam, check the heads/new springs, buy quality parts (fuel pump, timing set, oil pump, freeze plugs, etc), add an aluminum dual plane and a carb and run it (it'll run on the 650 but you need to go bigger).

With a half decent converter it'll be a nice cruiser that can easily light the tires. The later 727 should have part-throttle kickdown, which is a nice feature. There are a lot of little tweaks that can make a difference - get a transgo street kit, ditch the accumulator spring, up the line pressure, governor/apply lever, etc. The devil is in the details.
 
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Garys1969RR said:
View attachment 741325 I have a nice NUVI 2000 blower for a 440, complete set up. Belt, blower, mounting plates, ducting, blower hat, all pulleys etc. Cheapest way to 100 plus horse, without taking the motor apart. Ideal for a 7 to 1 motor. PM me if interested. Set up for the cast crank balancer. I had put an AFB Carb on for this pic.
Click to expand...
 
Should have the short block back in a week or so. Am I good just putting the stock oil pan, oil pickup, and a new stock oil pump back on? Is there any need for high volume pump, deep pan and such?
 
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