• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

4 speed clutch issues

What's the pressure plate sitting on in the picture?
Is the off-center hole under the fingers just something it's sitting on?
 
Have you put the disk on the output shaft and made sure it slides on the splines ok?

Without the pressure plate, run the bolts into the flywheel and see that they go in all the way.
 
IMG_20201031_185502430.jpg
This is what I would check next.

The wear pattern looks like it would be a result of severe mis-alignement.
 
Not sure, but it does not have high horsepower, flattop pistons, 440 source heads, mild cam from Hughes, 850cc carb. But it started slipping at a stop light and I was only giving it enough gas to get the car moving, like normal, when I got home, I did rev it up and tried a burn out for about 5 seconds, but smelled it burning and stopped. I did not put in a racing clutch set , nor a cheap one either.
The 2 one was a centerforce 2, so not junk stuff.
 
Padam, if there was a problem with the bellhousing, and it was not completely round how would that effect it?
If it was out of round I would think we would have a hard time getting the input shaft, and bolt holes to line up correctly. The trans goes into the PP and disk and the pilot hole like butter, no struggles with that. Plus I would think if there was a problem with the bell housing, when we rev the engine up we should see the trans try to rotate of rock back and forth?.
 
The PP does not have adjustable springs
 
Padam, the picture I took of the PP was off to the side, not straight up and down, I checked all of the fingers, and all of them are the same height and are centered.
 
Not sure, but it does not have high horsepower, flattop pistons, 440 source heads, mild cam from Hughes, 850cc carb. But it started slipping at a stop light and I was only giving it enough gas to get the car moving, like normal, when I got home, I did rev it up and tried a burn out for about 5 seconds, but smelled it burning and stopped. I did not put in a racing clutch set , nor a cheap one either.
The 2 one was a centerforce 2, so not junk stuff.
You are probably close to 500 HP, so my guess is you need the heaviest street strip setup they make. But what you got should hold up to normal driving, so not your root cause.
Padam, if there was a problem with the bellhousing, and it was not completely round how would that effect it?
If it was out of round I would think we would have a hard time getting the input shaft, and bolt holes to line up correctly. The trans goes into the PP and disk and the pilot hole like butter, no struggles with that. Plus I would think if there was a problem with the bell housing, when we rev the engine up we should see the trans try to rotate of rock back and forth?.
The bell housing check is for misalignment, not so much out of round.

So far what you've been doing is throwing parts at it. I think you are going to have to break it down to each piece, make sure each is a correct match for the others, and is installed to specs.
 
The problem I have when buying parts is the first thing they ask is "year make model engine".
My body is mostly 73, engine is 64, heads 68, drive line is 68, plus about 40% not sure, after market or home made.
 
I am using a stock bellhousing part #2892626 cast date is 9-69
 
The pictures that are above are from a HP clutch set from zoom. The same marks also were on the set before which was a Hays set (borg and beck style)
 
I would install the flywheel and bellhousing and check the run out of the flywheel face. I’m not sure whether it could affect it but maybe the flywheel face is not running parallel to the back of the bellhousing. Another thing is that you could have someone depress the clutch and measure the distance between the clutch face and the pressure plate in a few locations. You might want to do the same thing with the clutch fully engaged.
 
Last edited:
Well, after checking some other things, we THINK we found the problem. The bearing retainer on the front of the trans is for a small block. I checked the casting numbers and confirmed, which means that it is about a 1/2" to small for the bellhousing. Going to order the correct bearing tomorrow. I would think that is throwing off the alignment. I know it was going to be some overlooked and stupid.
 
That will throw it way off, trans is a tight fit into bellhousing.
I have also seen bushings for the bell to use the small bearing retainer.
 
Well, after checking some other things, we THINK we found the problem. The bearing retainer on the front of the trans is for a small block. I checked the casting numbers and confirmed, which means that it is about a 1/2" to small for the bellhousing. Going to order the correct bearing tomorrow. I would think that is throwing off the alignment. I know it was going to be some overlooked and stupid.
I was starting to suspect when you said it slid right together. It should put up a fight.
 
Is the bellhousing aluminum or cast iron? The aluminum bellhousing uses the 10.950” clutch and 130 tooth flywheel, the cast iron use the 11” clutch and the 143 tooth. Maybe a mismatch of parts?
I am using a stock bellhousing part #2892626 cast date is 9-69
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top