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My daily driver 67 Coronet wagon

I'm going to look at my FF 1.25" bar tomorrow too. I may have gotten some of the dimensions/bends wrong on the Chevy truck bar thats in there. Will figure out a remedy. On the thrust angle issue, I looked to see how much room is in the perches to shuffle the housing some. Not enough there so I think I'll slot the left one forward .25" and the right one .25" to the back. One forward, one back 1/4" each will give me the 1/2" I need.
 
Today I worked at getting my DIY bar and Moog links to fit better. Shimmed the mounts around, got nowhere. Put the FF bar and regular links in. I'm going to try the others in my 65 later. There was too much angle differences between the bar ends, control arm brackets etc. On the rr brake, I backed off the e-brake adjuster some on the underside, seems to work. I'll get some road time on it over the next few days and see how it goes. Going to get Ken's 64 in to do some work for him. Fatten up the piggy bank for more goodies to buy on the wagon. I texted the machinist in Fresno to see if he had any news from the sublet balance shop. The assembly will get back to him on Tuesday next week. I'll go get the short block pieces on Thursday.
 
That is disappointing that you couldn't get the GM bar to work. These pictures are of one of them in my 69 Dart 4 door.
The first picture is me establishing where to weld the custom end link mount on the control arm:

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Note the curve of the bar.

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I could shorten the link a bit to tuck the bottom in a bit tighter...

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It fits and works though. Maybe the curve helps fitment?
 
Fitment on my Charger, first was prior to 2022:

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2022:

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Now with a QA 1 bar with no banana bend like the GM bar has:

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It was looking like the QA1, pic 1. But the link was at a more severe angle top and bottom. Part of my problem might be the current ride height. I'm an inch +. That seems to make the tab angle conflict with the flats angle on the bar. After I get some miles on the car, going to Fresno Thursday to get my short block parts from Mike Silva, I'll drop it down some and see how that looks. The FF bar and regular links worked better for now. I'll get the car back in for a re-check on the alignment next month sometime. Will get the thrust angle issue resolved beforehand. And get it all groovy for the drive down to Woodley next month.
 
See the Zerk? Mine was gone in 24 hours. Could still be in the parking lot at Carson Lodge.
 
Front end feels pretty good and the general ride the same too. So many changes made! At low engine speed, the steering is stiffer. I'll see how it goes. Make look for a smaller diameter pulley to speed it up a touch. I thought I had the rear brakes squared away but there's still something haywire going on with the rr. It's grabbing the more I drive. Tomorrow's task will be toss the car up in the air, pull a wheel/tire off and see whassup. Since it'll be up in the air with the diff drooped down, I'll whittle on the spring perches to take care of my thrust angle problem.
 
Almost forgot this. Shot of the car this morning at the Morro Bay C&C. So far, it's leveled out. Down the road after the suspension settles in some, I'll start backing off the bar adjusters 1/2 a turn at a time till I like it.

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I put the Lares 11033 box in plus a new pump from them. And yes on the other. They didn't do what I asked, so the car goes in for a recheck/redo after I get some time on it to settle the new pieces in. Plus I need to take care of the thrust angle issue on the left side. Its forward. Will slot the perch to the front on the left and to the rear on the right. That will give me my 1/2" correction.
 
Worked on the rr brake today. I thought maybe the self adjuster cable and shoe return springs might have been layered wrong. Swapped places with the two springs so that the cable eye wasn't being interfered with by the spring. While it was it the air, I measured the gap between the lower control arm bumper and the frame. It was a little over 1.25", so I back the bolts off one turn each. Took the car out for a spin and I still have the rr engaging and grabbing/getting hot. Back into the air again. Don't see anything haywire or obvious. I went for a trial and error move by taking off the self adjuster components from both sides. Did a manual adjust on the drums and took it out again. That seemed to eliminate that issue. Maybe I got a defective rr unit? No clue. I still have a shudder on sharp turns. Maybe need another bottle of additive to shut that up. When backing up into the garage, have an incline, I get some shuddering when there is a bit of turning. Not sure what that is. I'll get with my neighbor and use his educated ear.
 
I put a second bottle of friction modifier in the diff. Took it out for a drive, did several right the left sharp 90* turns. Did a few rh then lh 360's in a couple of intersections to work lube through the plates. Had a little chatter initially but that went away. Brought it home to put into the garage, backed up to my spot which has an incline and the wheel was turned right, got chatter. Did a few back up the incline maneuvers going right and left on the wheel. Chatter when right, nothing when left.
Backing off the t-bar adjusters the one turn each got me to 1" on the bumpers from my yesterday job. The alignment between the sway bar eyelets and the control arm mounts improved too.
 
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