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I usually just make my own cables to avoid issues... I have seen the prices of re-pop cables and I was genuinely shocked... I decided to just make my own and it cost me significantly less
Yep - been doing that for a while myself. A lot of little things that just eat time but are worth it. When I build sub-assembly harnesses, even if using packard connectors - everything it cut, stripped, crimped, soldered, heat shrinked, AND ohm checked on the bench.
What I do to run an electric choke is to pull the 12v from the ballast resistor as others have mentioned... I get the little factory connector used to power the 6 pack solenoid and use that so theres no cutting the new harness
You should be able to snag a factory harness pretty easy - not much difference between the 5.2 and the 5.9 so you're good there - just get a later harness from 1998+ since you're running the "RE" transmission - the earlier harnesses did not have provision for the electronic transmission.
The...
493 Mike is spot on - use an ign 12v to trigger a relay that pulls from a constant hot -- I would wire in an additional fuse block (4 or 6 spot) and use the relay to power that - so you can hook your accessories to a fused circuit
Enjoy it - wiring is one of my favorite parts of a project. It doesn't have the glitz and glamor of firing up an engine but it is equally rewarding.
Personal notes / Hints / Tips
1. Don't make the wires too short but don't make them too long either - longer wires lead to messy routing
2...
Sounds like the power wire for the running lights is energized - it is the black wire coming off the headlight switch - turn the switch off and then use a multimeter and see if it is... Then unplug the light switch and test again - If it still has power (the now disconnected wire) it is...
need the matching PCM and body computers from the donor car - dash frame can be modified to accept the newer gauge cluster (cant just put the gauges on the older dash)
Was cleaning out my storage shed and found this old thing - was kinda curious if anything knew anything about it. It is (obviously) an MSD box - probably older as the design is dated. The sticker is faded and non-readable but appears to be maybe a late 70's 6A box?
Interesting thing is it has...
it really depends on what wiring you choose - if you run the replacement M&H harnesses from Year One they are pretty simple to install. If you're wiring your own car from scratch I wrote a big wiring thread on protouringmopar.com
They sent you the harness for a 1970 Dodge Charger. The blue wires with white tracers and the lt green wires go to the concealed headlight relay. The other black and blue wire connector also goes to the relay to control the motor.
You could - not the best solution as pointed out above... I used aluminum aerospace multi-pin connectors for my wiring... the factory bulkhead (if replaced) should last you another 40 some odd years... I personally like the idea of being able to detach the front light and engine...
I made my own... I took a small flat blade screw driver, gave it a slight bend at the tip, and ground it down narrow - slide it in and it takes allows your to remove the terminals.