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1969 Road Runner....another one!

Last, I would recommend using weld through primer between all panels being joined. There's zinc or copper based. I even think Eastwood or someone makes an etching weld through primer. I have good luck with the SEM Zinc based while other folks like Detmatt have luck with the copper. Again, you'll have to see what works for your preference.


Thanks so much!


Speaking of weld thru primers....what am I suppose to do with this e-coating on the AMD panels? Is that a weld thru primer? I've seen some guys weld thru it, but I see other guys clean that area off. Not sure what is the right technique.
 
No problem Capt!

It is not a weld thru primer. If you try to weld on it, it will either just not let an arc strike or spit and spatter right back at you. Sand/Grind the e-coat down where you're gonna weld and a little bit beyond. Anywhere the panels are going to lap and the heat from the welds could get to it, sand/grind it off. The weld heat will boil/bubble the stuff off from the surface of the metal and then set's in moisture and air. You know what comes after that. Spray that weld thru primer where the metal surface is going to be buried under another panel. As far as the rest of the panel/e-coat, leave it on. A little further down the road when you start prepping for body/block work there's a good chance you'll end up removing a bunch of it in the process and then go back over with a decent primer/sealer...But in the meantime it protects that metal..
 
Capt
Talk about being scared, that was me, scared to a hell.
I have a 69RR and have been putting it back to original (or as close as I can).
Listen closely to what I’m telling you. First make a decision (if you haven’t already)
whether you’re going to restore the RR to original (or close to it) or go in a lesser
direction and make it somewhat custom. I decided to go in the direction of 90% orig.
having that in mind keep me in the frame of mind. Take lots of pictures, and
most of all “TAKE YOUR TIME” this should be a labor of love.
Learn to walk away, that’s going to be your biggest hurdle know when to
put it down. I never changed out a differential before; the site helped me step-by-step,
it took me 2 weeks. I’m sure a more experienced person could have done it in a
couple of hours but I took all the time I wanted, slow and safe.
Keep the question coming you’ll get all the help you need.
Also, I found Youtub very helpful on how to install just about anything on a car.
Wish you the best.
 
Just a quick update: I got an IR 185 compressor lined up. Hope to get the fenders, doors, deck lid, hood latch support and the front valance blasted this weekend. We are thinking about using a Dupont product called Starblast XL. Anyone heard of this media before? It's an aluminum oxide. I've read great reviews about it. My father has used it before on bike frames...not sure if there is any issues with warping on car panels. Anything else I should blast while I'm at it? Going to do the main body in another week or so.
 
Ok guys, this next question is really going to show my ignorance.

Prop had mentioned that I should use a weld-thru primer. Should I put the whole car in this weld-thru primer, or just the areas I plan on welding? I am having a hard time trying to find a local dealer that sells weldable primer in bulk format. I can find aerosol cans, but that isn't enough to do the whole car. Or, should I put everything in an epoxy or self-etching, then clean the area I plan on welding and just shoot that area with the weld thru primer from the aerosol can?

This leads me to my next question. Since the car is going to be blasted and well etched, should I go with the epoxy primer or should I still use the etching primer?
 
Capt...Just the areas you're gonna weld for the weld thru primer. Buy it in an aerosol can. As far as etch or epoxy, well that's been a back and forth debate on here now and then. Myself I go with a decent epoxy primer like PPG DP40. Pricey, but you get what you pay for. When you move to an etch, there's certain criteria that plays out. It needs to be sprayed on clean bare metal and not to be used on top of or underneath filler. A majority of body shops (around here anyways) phased Etch out a while ago. The expoxy can be used as a primer or a sealer and the mixes today will do just as well as guarding from corrosion as the etch. Plus side for etch is it's cheaper if thats a variable.

As far as that blast media, sorry...never heard of it. Donny may have a heads up on that, he's the media blast expert around here. I run Alum. Oxide in my blast booth and run a aluminum oxide/black beauty mix in my #100 blaster. I'd say blast as much as you can, it's not the only way to clean of the rust, dirt, grime, or whatever, but is definitely one of the best and quickest. Do not blast the roof, hood surface or trunk lid surface.....Those warp pretty easy and a real profesional with professional equipment may/may not attempt it depending on on his experience/equipment.
 
Thanks Prop! I wasn't going to blast the hood or the roof, but I was going to do the deck lid....glad I asked!

I have a PPG dealer here in town. I'll just plan in going epoxy for the direct-to-metal coat. Thanks for the info! Greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks Prop! I wasn't going to blast the hood or the roof, but I was going to do the deck lid....glad I asked!

I have a PPG dealer here in town. I'll just plan in going epoxy for the direct-to-metal coat. Thanks for the info! Greatly appreciated.

No problem Capt. Glad I can help..Great to see/hear the experience's i've had help to grow the classic Mopar community and help a fellow car guy out. That's what this site is all about. Just like you, i've asked and still do ask tons of questions. Great to have such a large resource of info/experience.
 
Got some work done today. Removed door hinges, front windshield molding clips, heater box, pedal assembly, both engine and dash harness, steering column, wiper motor and linkage, master cylinder and steering box. Also got some cutting, grinding and welding in today, along with a trip to Lowes.

Didn't get any blasting in yet...I got too busy researching primers. Shouldn't be long now though.
 
just started reading thru your thread here. nice story at the begining.sounds like you've got a good start on the things you need and have gotten alot done so far.I'll have to pay attention better and watch your progress.Always enjoy seeing another RR come back to life.
 
Well, it didn't take long for life to get in the way. Reference post #1: With a baby on the way, I had to take a detour in my projects. One of our rooms upstairs is my office. We have to make that office into the spare bedroom and the spare bedroom into the new baby's room. Subsequently, the office needs a new home. My daughter's room remains unchanged. Time to finish the basement. Been working on this for the last 2 weeks. I'm done with it....Electrician and Drywaller have been hired. This will be the childrens play room / workout room / office. Pre-wired for a new TV etc. Trying to de-cluter the upstairs.


IMG_1005.jpg



On a positive note: Media, primer and some other tools were ordered this morning. Can't wait to get working on the car again.
 
Looks like ya been pretty busy Capt! I think we have all had our share of life stopping our project for a time, Once you get started again you'll be back into the thick of things with the smile that comes with it.. New baby, 69 Runner, life's looking great man.. Best wish's for the baby and Ma and Pa.. Always a great thing having the little ones running around, I took my one grand daughter for a ride yesterday shes 6 now but she loves my red car that gos beep beep lol.. When she grows up, she says she will have one just like it, shes sometimes my little helper here. Good luck on your bird!
 
Wow, I just read this entire thread -- must have missed it somehow? I rarely use Aluminum Oxide (AO), it cuts way too fast, and is very unforgiving to use, and how much did you purchase? You're blasting in your driveway? You're kidding right? Let me tell you that the IR185 compressor will send media back into your house, your neighbors house, and will be very dusty, dirty and noisy too! You do have an air-fed respirator right, and a blast suit, gloves, helmet with tear-off lenses? I would think sending this one out to a media blaster up in your area is a wise choice -- after all, I relegated myself to "I can't do it all" mentality. I'm really interested to see pics of your set up, and operations in your driveway, not that I'm critical, I just want to see how extensive you're getting. I blast panels, hoods, deck lids, roofs all day long -- never warped any. The only thing I've ever warped was an aluminum door, filled with Bondo, all with a broken air regulator sending way too much psi into my nozzle. Bondo is not nice, it's very hard if let cure properly, and very heavy too. I can pick up a door, fender, etc and can tell if it's filled with the stuff.

All the best!
 
Thanks for your concerns Donny. This isn't your typical "DIY" job. My father blasts for a living. Albeit, he doesn't do cars. He has done bike frames and things of that nature. He works with (owner is a good friend of the family) a company that does heavy blasting of water tanks, bridges etc. They have both the IR185 and 350. Yes, we have all the correct equipment such as fresh air hoods and suits. He typically works with black beauty. He has your same concerns about annoying the neighbors. So, we have decided to do it at his shop behind the loading docks. We'll use the AO on the frame, engine compartment, floor, trunk etc. Then we'll use a less aggressive media on the panels, doors etc. I actually plan on just using a DA on the roof. The hood is brand new from AMD and will end up being stripped of the ecoating by other methods.

Like I said in my first post, I'm new to this. So please, if you have any advise, I'm all ears.
 
CaptCulver nice 69 RR project, maybe too many of them...LOL... & a baby coming, you are a busy man for sure, keep up the good work...
 
Hey, what do you guys clean your guns with? I was going to use some MEK, but I didn't know if that was too harsh. What about a basic thinner?
 
MEK!!?? Man that's some harsh stuff, i use Acetone because it's cheap. If you want to use harsh stuff, Methyl Isoproplyl Ketone (MIK) is a little safer i think.
 
i'll be heading over to :icon_eyes:see:icon_eyes: this project tomorrow,, jc
 
Thanks for stopping by today Jeff. I enjoyed our talk and look forward to working with you!
 
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