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383 stroker vs 440 stock rebuild

What engine option would you choose?


  • Total voters
    38

RockyPat

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Hello All,

I have a 383 that is in need of a rebuild, and I fear that the crankshaft might not be salvageable. This would most likely mean stroker kit. I can do a 438 or 496 with 440source which would cost me $2300 + everything else to rebuild.

OR, I could buy a 440 core for probably $500+ and hopefully do a stock rebuild with the factory crank. I figure the increased displacement would offset the 383 stroker kit. I am assuming this way would be cheaper, but I am not sure. Maybe I could sell the 383 to recuperate some funds this way.

For a person who is looking to gain the most bang for their buck, what would be the best option?

I am looking for good street power and tendencies, nothing crazy.

Thanks
 
Hello All,

I have a 383 that is in need of a rebuild, and I fear that the crankshaft might not be salvageable. This would most likely mean stroker kit. I can do a 438 or 496 with 440source which would cost me $2300 + everything else to rebuild.

OR, I could buy a 440 core for probably $500+ and hopefully do a stock rebuild with the factory crank. I figure the increased displacement would offset the 383 stroker kit. I am assuming this way would be cheaper, but I am not sure. Maybe I could sell the 383 to recuperate some funds this way.

For a person who is looking to gain the most bang for their buck, what would be the best option?

I am looking for good street power and tendencies, nothing crazy.

Thanks
Do the 440 great motor.
 
I have a 400 stroker to a classic 451 build. So I would try the RB stroker project next.
 
496 would be my preference. I’ve built a few 400’s with the 4.250 stroke cranks and even on pump gas CR’s they are awesome.
 
496 would be my preference. I’ve built a few 400’s with the 4.250 stroke cranks and even on pump gas CR’s they are awesome.
I looked at a '67 Belvedere (GTX clone) in half project with the 511/512 stroked 440 build engine. It dynoed 686 HP. Very simular to my 451. The difference? It's lower compression thus hit that number on pump 93. My 451 is 12.3:1 on E-85.

There truly is no replacement for displacement. Especially in the naturally aspirated world.
 
I'm thinking of the same thing.

Polish the crank: $30
Resize rods: $160
ARP Rod Bolts: $72
Rod + Main Bearings: $200
Wrist Pins: $50
Pistons: $670
Rings: $50
Balancing: $200
Bore/hone cylinders: wash

That's about $1,600 with used crank and rods. So for another $700, you get a new crank, much better rods, and low deck appearance.

Having never done this, coupled with my lack of knowledge and experience, this is where I ended up. So, I'm sure there are other considerations I haven't thought of.
 
We haven't done a stroker crank in a 383. Mainly because we have 400s and 440s to choose from for a stroker. We've had a 4.25" crank in a 440 for 25+ years. It's pretty tough to beat a 4.25" stroke. Of your listed options a 496 would be my choice over a 440. But 440s can run very good. Certainly the most affordable option.
 
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How often are you going to drive it, how long do you want it to live? In a low deck B block, a 496 will cause a little bit of piston flop in the cylinders and more extreme angles. By nature, most stroked engines do not last as long as stock stroke. My stroked motorcycles always require a rebuild around 1/2 the miles of my stock stroked bikes.
 
You missed an option. Buy a cheap 440 from an RV and throw an ebay turbo at it.
 
I did a 383/438 build for my drag boat. In my case the crank was no longer usable. How it behaves depends on the heads you use and the cam choice. In a car, I would do the 496 and say "It's just a 383" and smile hehehehe. Either way, if your block is good, it's a fun build.
 
How often are you going to drive it, how long do you want it to live? In a low deck B block, a 496 will cause a little bit of piston flop in the cylinders and more extreme angles. By nature, most stroked engines do not last as long as stock stroke. My stroked motorcycles always require a rebuild around 1/2 the miles of my stock stroked bikes.
Our fore fathers have figured this out.
 
How often are you going to drive it, how long do you want it to live? In a low deck B block, a 496 will cause a little bit of piston flop in the cylinders and more extreme angles. By nature, most stroked engines do not last as long as stock stroke. My stroked motorcycles always require a rebuild around 1/2 the miles of my stock stroked bikes.
I believe that's a fair assessment. It's true with any performance enhancement. At our local pub I heard a conversation about bashing Ford's modular engine after increasing it's supercharger performance. That it comes apart after only 20 runs? They asked me as the old fart. I said. "What did you think would happen when you increased boost from its designed 8 lbs to 14?" Changing fuel only protects from immediate destruction. You made no upgrade to bottom end. You didn't even add upgraded head studs. You just added a chip to change fuel map to accommodate the increase in boost. Of course it's going to come apart. ALOT faster!"
 
Often overlooked...a 383 mopar with its 9.98 deck height has a taller deck then a chevy 454 which is only 9.8. Both have the same 4.25" bore=there is more room for a stroker in a 383 mopar.
Most don't hesitate to drop a 4.25" crank to replace the 454s factory 4" crank.
 
I'd do a stock stroke 400 before doing a stroker 383. Big bore engines are always better in my book.....otherwise do the 440. Easy to make 1hp per cubic inch these days and well.....440 hp ain't too shabby.
 
I'd do a stock stroke 400 before doing a stroker 383. Big bore engines are always better in my book.....otherwise do the 440. Easy to make 1hp per cubic inch these days and well.....440 hp ain't too shabby.
So a 690 would make 800 hp.
 
I'd do a stock stroke 400 before doing a stroker 383. Big bore engines are always better in my book.....otherwise do the 440. Easy to make 1hp per cubic inch these days and well.....440 hp ain't too shabby.
Heck I will stick with a 440.
 
I believe that's a fair assessment. It's true with any performance enhancement. At our local pub I heard a conversation about bashing Ford's modular engine after increasing it's supercharger performance. That it comes apart after only 20 runs? They asked me as the old fart. I said. "What did you think would happen when you increased boost from its designed 8 lbs to 14?" Changing fuel only protects from immediate destruction. You made no upgrade to bottom end. You didn't even add upgraded head studs. You just added a chip to change fuel map to accommodate the increase in boost. Of course it's going to come apart. ALOT faster!"
Its all bottom line how fast do you want to go.
 
I'd do a stock stroke 400 before doing a stroker 383. Big bore engines are always better in my book.....otherwise do the 440. Easy to make 1hp per cubic inch these days and well.....440 hp ain't too shabby.
440 can do more you know that lots have lost the ways.
 
Keep in mind the rod ratio on a 383/496 is 1.53. A stock 454 Chevy is also 1.53 . Seems those had no problem going a considerable amount of miles in countless GM vehicles. So the rod angle shouldn’t even be a concern. Most after market pistons run similar piston to wall so whether it’s a 440 or a 496 it doesn’t matter. The 496 will have a shorter cd on the piston but in reality it’s not all that bad. The wrist pin is still below the ring pack. Sure a 440 piston will have a longer skirt and be a little less prone to rocking but, what performance big block lasts 100k anyway. The strokers make great street/strip engines. They do need better heads to really see the potential. Being the 383 has a smaller bore careful attention needs to be taken that the intake valves have enough radial clearance to the cylinder walls. And that’s easily resolved with a die grinder.

I have a 400/512 I built in my road runner that’s a street car. It’s been an absolutely awesome engine. I’ve driven and hammered the hell out of it going on 5 years. It’s pretty much zero maint and has 10 sec power. It’s made a few guys believers..
 
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